Help me understand clutch adjustment video

[tarheels23]

Title says it all, Jacks video on youtube has got me confused. I have the cruise switch back in towards the driver seat as far as possible. Now on the Master cylinder rod I have inside the u shaped bracket as much of the rod as possible.

What do I do from here?

 

[WOTDSM]

So the rod is threaded all the way out and you're still having engagement issues? Sorry I am a little confused by the post. Take a pic maybe?

 

[tarheels23]

if your looking at the u bracket, most of the threads of the rod are inside of it, and yea I'm trying to adjust my clutch properly. I just don't know where to go from here, and I feel like I'm working backwards.

Earlier today I had it about 2 or 3 threads left inside the u bracket and my tranny was harder to shift gears and wanted to lock me out at times

 

[manifestmessiah]

You're suppose to make adjustments a 1/4 turn at a time, and have a friend push the slave rod to make sure you don't block the relief, otherwise you'll never fully engage the clutch. If you adjust for the most throw and are still having problems with disengagement, then it is likely a worn pedal assembly or bent fork are to blame.

 

[pauleyman]

If you have all the threads in you likely cant even get it in gear. Go the other way.

 

[tarheels23]

so what should I do? start slowly backing the rod out of the bracket and keep checking my slave? I'm trying to get to that point where I cant push my slave in like in jacks video butttt I feel like his clockwise and my closkwise are different since my assembly is still in the car ans his is on a table. The other thing I dont know is when I try to push my slave is do I pull the pedal up or let it sit closer towards the floor

 

[pauleyman]

I hqvent watched jacks video. Pedal should always be at the top. Slave should be able to push back in. You should not have it where it cant push back in.

 

[tarheels23]

well his video says turn it to the point where you cant push the slave in to find the block off on the valve and then turn it back out a turn once you find it.

Now I have the cruise switch backed out as far as possible with the pedal still fully depressing it and almost no threads left inside of the u bracket and never found a spot where the bleeder valve gets shut on the slave

 

[pauleyman]

The bleeder valve isn't on the slave it's in the master. You won't always find it. Jack is correct. IF you find it then back it in one turn. Thats as far as you can get. If you still have issues after this you have issues on the pedal assembly, hydraulics, flywheel step or fork and pivot.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

there is no bleeder valve on the Master I don't know where people get this. the only bleeder is on the slave the 10 millimeter bleeder. I've torn apart master cylinders there is no valve in there your miss understanding what he is saying.
Or I missed something but I doubt it.

 

[pauleyman]

Misnomer. Not bleeder but rather the valve inside the master. If the master is over adjusted you close off the fluid passage and the sysem is no longer self adjusting and that is also why the slave can't be pushed back in it's bore. I did not mean the bleeder on the slave.

 

[tarheels23]

alright well I couldnt find that anywhere however I had the rod adjusted so i left it a couple rotations left inside of the u bracket and checked the slave and I can still push it in and with the car off I can put it in all the gears like butter

 

[pauleyman]

with the car off

That' wont' tell you anything. Car has to be running.

 

[tarheels23]

well before I had adjusted it after work it was blocking me out of 3rd and 4th a little with the car off

 

[gorf]

OK here is an easy way.
Start the car leave the brake on put it in gear let the clutch up slowly. Pay attention to where it starts to grab.
If it is at the floor twist the screw so fewer threads are in the u bracket.
Keep twisting it and checking, when you get the point where the clutch starts to engage with the pedal about 2 inches from the top - you are close.

With it in neutral, crawl under the front of the car and push the clutch fork in with your fingers.
If it goes in, you can thread the rod out a little further to bring the clutch up even higher.
Check the fork again - when you can no longer push it in - you have gone too far.
Back it off 1/4 turn tighten the nut and check it again.
As long as the engagement point is close to the top and you can still push in the clutch fork - you are good.

 

[tarheels23]

alright thanks, Ill give that a shot if how I left it does not work

 

[gorf]

if you twist the adjuster all the way out and can still push the clutch fork in, its probably clutch time. Either the clutch plate is worn down or the fork its self is worn.

 

[tarheels23]

Alright so I tightened up a few bolts on my tranny and installed my new SS Clutchline. When I'm adjusting the rod on my master cylinder to find the point where it blocks off the bleeder valve, is the pedal supposed to be pressed in when I'm trying to push the slave in? and once I find the point where it blocks the bleeder I turn it back a turn correct?

 

[pauleyman]

I don't think you understand how the clutch hydraulics work. When the car is static there is no pressure on the system. The system is self adjusting as the clutch wears becasue fluid is allowed to travel between the resovoir and the master cylinder etc. Understand that the position of the clutch fork changes slightly as the clutch wears as gets thinner. This necessitates a slightly different volume of fluid in the system. When the clutch pedal is all the way up this can happen as the valve in the master is open allowing fluid movement and there is no pressure in the system. In the first few mm of travel of the master cylinder rod this valve is closed and the system builds pressure actuating the fork at the slave. If the slave cannnot be pushed back easily it is because the valve in the master is already closed and the system does not allow fluid movement (because it's ready to actuate the clutch). When the peadl is at the top of it's travel and you are adjusting the rod you are changing the amount of freeplay in the pedal assembly. The clevis pin isn't moving when you adjust the rod, the rod is moving into the master cylinder. It's the same effect as if you pushed the pedal just a little bit. You may not be able to adjust the master to the point where the slave locks. Maybe every car could when it was new but over time you get play in the pedal, fork etc. 2gs have less of a problem with this as the pedal assembly is different. If you adjust the system where the slave starts to lock and you still have clutch drag problems then you have other issues in the pedal assembly, or clutch mecahnical system (inside the bellhousing). Do not run the car with a stuck slave. Once you get to that point (if you do) then yes you are correct, thread the rod back in a little bit. Thats as far as you can go for adjustment. that should also answer your question, obviously you couldn't push the slave in if you have the pedal pushed in even just a little bit. That would defeat the whole principle behind hydraulic actuation. Only with the pedal in the up position is there no pressure.

 

[gorf]

Alright so I tightened up a few bolts on my tranny and installed my new SS Clutchline. When I'm adjusting the rod on my master cylinder to find the point where it blocks off the bleeder valve, is the pedal supposed to be pressed in when I'm trying to push the slave in? and once I find the point where it blocks the bleeder I turn it back a turn correct?

Read the above post it is a good explanation.
To answer you question, no pressure on clutch and you should be able to push the fork in.
adjust your clutch up till you can not push it in and then back it off 1/4 turn.
Tighten it down drive around the block and make sure you can still push it in. That is the best you get with that clutch/fork.

 

[pauleyman]

One last thing...the comments we made on "best you can get" means maximum adjustment. It doesn't mean thats where you have to run it. If the clutch isn't dragging with less adjustment than that well that's ok too. The amount of adjustment you have available to you will be less with an aftermarket clutch (a subject for another time). Point is the maximum amount of fork travel occurs with the above adjustment practice. If you want the pedal free play to be different AND you have room to do so you are free to make adjustments as you see fit. Typically on alot of the heavier clutches you will be towards the maximum adjustment to get the clutch to disengaged. On a stock clutch you have alot more room to adjust where on the pedal the clutch starts to engage.

 

[1990dsmkid]

Im having the same problem. I replaced the clutch with a southbend ss/tz, new forck, oem tob, new pivot ball, oem slave cylinder, oem master cylinder, and ss line from master to slave. I spend at least 1 hour tyring to adjust it to Jack but no matter what I cant the slave to stop moving so whats the next best way to set it properly?

 

[tarheels23]

I couldn't find the point where I couldn't not push my slave in, so I just adjusted my slave out to where it engaed higher up off the floor

 

[pauleyman]

You won't always find that point. That's fine.
If anybody else is following this thread if you have disengement issues and the hydraulics are okay then there is either play in the pedal, play in the fork/ball or the step height is wrong or a combination of any of the above. If anybody installs a clutch without knowing with the step height should be and equally silly without verifying the step height from the machine shop (yes even on a brand new flywheel), then you can't be objective about what the clutch will or won't do. Knowing how it should be and THEN VERIFYING that is is that way is the only way to be sure. With rare exception I do not "take their word" for it. I physically get the proper tool to measure whatever I'm working on and verify it myself. If you don't know how to use the tool find out how before going to the shop. OBJECTIVE data is what you want, not subjective.

Example. The flywheel step was measured to .614. Not "I think" it's measured to .614.

 

[1990dsmkid]

my step height is within spec on brand new act streetlite flywheel. My pedal assembly also checks out with no play. Since I cant find the point and Im not able to drive car yet, how can I get it adjusted to closet correct position?