check engine light

[rstare]

Did you get the CEL once you put the FCD in (after the problem), or when the problem started? If so, then that makes the CEL unrelated to your actual problem. If that is the case; the CLT is known to cause funky startup and idle issues. Also since you messed with the IACV check to make sure that is functioning correctly.

 

[rbwtrans]

have you checked your cam timing? Improperly adjusted cams will cause funky vacuum readings as well as a "fuel cut" like idle with die out.

 

[style619s]

to be honest i dont reli know wut the CEL and CLT is ?? sry for my stupidety

do you think IACV since i put a used one in from my parts car ???

i mean it does kinda makes sence ### it started doing that right after i replaced it ......

 

[rstare]

to be honest i dont reli know wut the CEL and CLT is ?? sry for my stupidety

do you think IACV since i put a used one in from my parts car ???

i mean it does kinda makes sence ### it started doing that right after i replaced it ......

Check Engine Light
Coolant Temperature Sensor

Do you have any other codes besides the MAP sensor one?
I'm going to say your MAP sensor code is from putting the FCD in and is unrelated to your actual problem.

RbwTrans brings up a good point.
You are turbo, so hopefully you have a boost gauge.... What is your vacuum reading?

I'm still betting something on the IACV, since you changed it and then this problem started happening.

 

[style619s]

its like in 20s i think or less i got autometer pro comp gauges

so you think i should get a brand new IACV and start from there ??? ### im wit you on that one everything started right after that

p.s. thats the pm;y code showing ..

 

[style619s]

UPDATE!!!!!!!

i tryed putting a new IACV in...and it ran like a complete crap no luck at all


so i just put a old one back on

 

[rstare]

Hmm. Check the CLT and make sure it's in spec.
With your vacuum at 20"hg I doubt it's your timing. (Usually when timing is off the vacuum is low)
You just turbo'd right?
Or were you the guy that was switching from the Missing Link to the FCD?

 

[style619s]

yeah it was me while ago and yes im just torbo

and how do i check that sensor ?? i hope thats wut it is because im about to put a diff wiring hardness and ECU like the other guy is doing whose having same problems

 

[rstare]

2GNT.com - CLT
That's to check the CLT.
Were you having this problem with the Missing Link?
I thought you had just turbo'd, I didn't realize you were turbo'd before and using a Missing Link.

 

[style619s]

no i didnt have that problem then
when im older bro boosted this car he used missing link and he didnt have anyproblems for 3 years untill u got it


but i was thinkin since i got SAFC II would that be causing high voltage ???
im ganna try and unhook it on tuesday to see wut happends

 

[rstare]

Someone else was having a similar problem like you on 2gnt; I just saw it today and Corbin gave an excellent answer.

You got this code because the MAP sensor output was higher than 4.7V for more than 2 seconds. If you have any auxiliary electronics tapped into your MAP sensor output, now would be the time to remove it (Apex S-AFC, Split Second VC1, etc). If you don't know what a VC1 is, it is an electronic device intended to limit the maximum voltage output from your MAP sensor, when a turbo or supercharger is added to the engine. It is actually designed to help you avoid the exact CEL you have, but they do break and can be installed incorrectly.

I would disconnect the sensor plug with the ignition switch to "ON". Use a multi-meter to measure resistance between the black/green stripe wire (sensor ground) and a good chassis ground (battery ground wire on firewall or ground wire on top of intake manifold). Resistance should be almost zero. A really high resistance or no connection could affect the sensor's output. Use the multi-meter to measure voltage difference between the green/yellow stripe wire (sensor power) and a good chassis ground. Voltage should be around 5 volts. A high voltage could affect the sensor's output. Use the multi-meter to measure the voltage difference between the yellow wire/white stripe (sensor output to ECU) and a good chassis ground. The voltage should be almost zero. If you get a voltage similar to the sensor power you measured earlier, you probably have a short between the sensor power wire and the sensor output wire. If you pass these three tests, the next step would be to buy a new MAP sensor. If new sensors look too expensive, I've got a used, tested sensor that I would part with for a reasonable price (PM me).

Corbin

 

[style619s]

thank you man you've help me alot on here i appreciate that bro !!

and that other guy was me too im everywhere but im ganna try that tomorrow ### i got work and school today but ill post updates tmorrow

 

[style619s]

UPDATE

everything is fixed !! me and my buddy started going thru all the wire where SAFC controller was connected to and i guess when i was talkin my intercooler piping off i hit one of the map sensor wire by ECU and it pulled it out

so it was a dumb yellow black wire but thanks everyone for the help