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check engine light

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Double back and check everything you’ve ever spliced into and check for melted wires (around hot areas such as the egr) and bad connections. You will often see this code when a signal/power wire is touching or has melted into another wire. As stated above it would be wise to check the connector for cracks/pins touching. Are you getting this code once you go into boost? (If it does you might want to ditch the missing link and get a fcd) I bet there wasn’t anything wrong with your other map sensor; hang on to the receipt.
 
style619s said:
i got a check engine light on... high input on map sensor...guys at autozone said i need a new map sensor so i got one but its still on


any ideas on wut it might be ??
Click to expand...

YES you're getting this code cause your map sensor is reading HIGHER voltage than a N/T MAP should read. Which means you are also probably hitting fuel cut as well. Get a FCD from Paul Velocia Paola.

The FCD is a voltage clamp. It will stop the ECU from seeing more than 5v from the MAP when you go INTO boost.

Do you even have a missing link or anything on the MAP sensor?
 
i have a FCD from treadstone performance and yes it hits fuel cut at 4k rpms and the light is on at all times ones you start the car it just dies so i have to get the rpms up for lil bit so it wouldnt die

locke you actually might be right while ago i was replacing my idle control valve so i had to take all my intercooler piping off and one of the hardness was melted on the egr so i some wut checked it it looked alright so i put that stainless steel wire cover one it so it wont melt on it anymore and thats when it started doin that

something that just came to my mind LOL
 
You FCD is probably what is causing the CEL. Even when adjusted right they can throw a code.
To your fuel cut problem, did you ever check to see if you hit fuel cut without any kind of FCD or missing link?
I know everyone says the 96+ need them, but I'm a 97' and I didn't. No matter how much adjusting I did to the FCD it always hit cut. So I took it out and now it runs great.
 
no i havent but the light came on before i even put FCD in ### i remember removing intercooler piping to install that idle control valve and seeing wiring hardness melted to EGT (which i didnt reli checked) but i put this stainless steel cover over it so it wont melt again.. right after i installed the idle controll valve and put everything together and light came on.. so tomorrow im ganna check the wiring hardness to see wuts up
 
ok here is an update

i checked all the wires they look fine.. i took FCD off and tried running the car without it but still throws the code... i tried putting diff clip that i had still... tried putting diff map sensor still throwing the code.. by the way THE code is 108 which says MAP sensor voltage too high (Hardness and connector/BAD VC1/replace MAP sensor)


so my question is what is VC1 because that the only thing i didn't try
 
once you start the car rpms go up to 1500 and idles like lunch control for few second then drops down to 0 and car dies.... so i have to keep the rews up when i start the car...and the car just feels weird :(
 
Mine acted very similar when I had the FCD adjusted incorrectly. So that's what leads me to think it has something to do with your FCD.
Have you checked the voltage for the MAP sensor with a multimeter? Someone posted a link earlier for the voltage; I believe it's 4.63V. A few people have asked you and you haven't really answered so it makes me think you haven't.
 
yeah i havent cheacked it .... but the thing is when i tryed adjusting it didnt work and car started acting up before i even put a FCD and now i took it off and drive with out one and its still doing the same thing... you know wut im saying it just dont make any sence to me
 
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