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Check Engine Light (CEL) Code #p0442 fix?

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arturo74r

15+ Year Contributor
76
1
Apr 8, 2008
Chicago, Illinois
Hello. I guess I'm another unfortunate of the CEL curse, LOL. Well anyway, I took my car to Autozone and the code they gave me was this P0442 and it meant "EVAP small leak detected" The guy told me it could be the fuel cap (like 80% of the time) or a small leak in the emission hoses. How can I check this myself? or what should I do?

My car is a 2g eagle talon Esi
 
First have your car running and take a can of brake cleaner and spray it on your vacum hoses and emisson hoses if your egine changes speed or if it wants to die then you have a leak some where in the hoses. try that and see what you come up with also you can check the presure on your gas cap or replace it with a new one. Hope that helps you out.
 
I'm sorry I didn't mean to be such a NooB. My question is, where are the vacuum hoses that I need to replace? or should I replace just about all of them? And are all of them in the engine bay? ###' I remember the guy from autozone saying something about a hose conected to the fuel tank to the exhaust or something like that.
 
I don't know for sure about DSMs but if they're like just about any other car there should be a fuel return hose that goes from your engine bay to your gas tank this could be another culprit and the hose that the autozone guy was talking about, the easiest and first thing to do is to buy a replacment gas cap and put it on, reset your ecu and see if that fixes the problem(it might take a couple days for the cel to come back on if it isn't fixed) If that doesn't fix your problem return the gas gap. Next, if the problem persists I would suggest just living with it, it will throw the CEL but won't affect driveability or fuel economy but if you hate the CEL or you live in an area that does emissions tests you can have your fuel system pressure tested by any worthwhile shop and they will tell you where the leak is and how much to fix it, I'm not sure if there is a way to do this at home or if you need special equipment. P.S. If you haven't messed with your tank or fuel system 20:1 says it IS your gas cap.
 
I don't know for sure about DSMs but if they're like just about any other car there should be a fuel return hose that goes from your engine bay to your gas tank this could be another culprit and the hose that the autozone guy was talking about, the easiest and first thing to do is to buy a replacment gas cap and put it on, reset your ecu and see if that fixes the problem(it might take a couple days for the cel to come back on if it isn't fixed) If that doesn't fix your problem return the gas gap. Next, if the problem persists I would suggest just living with it, it will throw the CEL but won't affect driveability or fuel economy but if you hate the CEL or you live in an area that does emissions tests you can have your fuel system pressure tested by any worthwhile shop and they will tell you where the leak is and how much to fix it, I'm not sure if there is a way to do this at home or if you need special equipment. P.S. If you haven't messed with your tank or fuel system 20:1 says it IS your gas cap.

Ok, I will try to replace the gas cap. And do I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery? How long should I wait to reconnect it?
 
Disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes and then reconnect it. Most manuals say 10 minutes is good but I've always preferred to play it safer. Also i believe there is a small rubber hose that runs from the fill tube for the gas tank to the tank to allow for air and fumes to escape. check to make sure it's still connected. It's located under the passenger side rear wheel well under the gas cap area and runs down the tube going to the tank. This happened on a friends Bonneville and that was the problem.
 
Hey! I think it was my fuel cap because I tightened it as much as I could and the CEL hasn't showed up yet. I'm glad. I will need to replace my fuel cap though but I'll do that some other time, my car is running great and I'm about to get some money to finish repairing it.

Thanks a lot guys
 
CEL came on again, so it probably wasn't the fuel cap. Before I had this car it was parked for over a year and a half and most of the rubber components in the engine were cracked so it's probably one of the hoses if not all of them. So I was thinking about replacing all of them. Do they sell a vacuum hose kit somewhere?

Thanks
 
That CEL is only from the evap system, only the hoses from the charcoal canister and the one heading back to the gas tank will trigger that sort of problem, if you're worried about vacuum leaks they're relatively easy to find, just spray some ether or starting fluid around your engine bay and if the motor revs or tries to die there's a leak in that area. If you are set on changing all of the vacuum lines I don't know of any kits to do it in rubber or black but RRE has a kit that will change all the hoses to colored hoses for pretty cheap Silicone Hose and Clamps <-- hose by the foot
RRE's Larson Silicone Hose Kit <-- whole car (Larson) hose kit
 
thanks the_mork. I will try that. I have another question, do you know if fixing the problem will turn the CEL off inmediately or after a couple of miles? or would I have to reset it?
 
just an idea, I had a 2g N/T that threw that same code probably 2 dozen times when I had it, and it was always the vaccuum line that was on the passenger side of the engine bay, in front of the head/valve cover, and came off a metal tube that ran across the length of the head. I believe the vacuum line went from that tube to the evap cannister in the passenger front fender well. Try that line, when the motor torques, it always pulled it loose.
Good luck!
 
just an idea, I had a 2g N/T that threw that same code probably 2 dozen times when I had it, and it was always the vaccuum line that was on the passenger side of the engine bay, in front of the head/valve cover, and came off a metal tube that ran across the length of the head. I believe the vacuum line went from that tube to the evap cannister in the passenger front fender well. Try that line, when the motor torques, it always pulled it loose.
Good luck!

Thanks for the advice, I will try that too. With all those vacuum lines I can't tell which is from the evap system and which is vacuum.
 
Man, I replaced some of the lines but I still have the CEL on. There are 2 or 3 lines that I couldn't replace because I would have to remove the front bumper. So I gave up on it for now. I might work on it soon but I'm afraid that one of the sensors is broken because I sprayed around the lines and nothing happened.
 
I apologize for reviving such an old thread but I FINALLY fixed that annoying code. After giving up to it I moved to a state that does emissions and I had to get it fixed. The leak was coming from a return line from the gas tank. I had to access it from the rear seat and it was difficult to replace. I had my car tested for leaks and there were none. I drove it around for a few days and the light came back on, a different code P1494 (Evap ventilation switch malfunction - part# 04891423AB if you are curious). So this past weekend I completely took apart the whole EGR and evap systems in the engine bay. I replaced a few bad lines and cleaned every sensor/switch/solenoid that I could get my hands on. I used some cleaning spray into every opening and them let the parts out to dry for a few hours. I put everything back together and started her up. It took a couple coughs but then ran smooth. When I took it for a spin I was surprised my car felt more "alive", like it was breathing better. I connected the OBD-II scanner and codes were still pending. This morning when I got to work I connected it again and I am glad to see EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM - PASSED. I am still waiting on the code for the Oxygen sensor heat and the Catalytic system to show as ready and I will check engine light free for the first time in years!!

If you have any questions let me know
 
Holy crap I can't believe this. Has to be a new record! The 7 year fix!! How have you not upgraded to a turbo DSM by now? LOL
Seriously though, good job for finally taking care of it! :thumb:

Thank you!.... I connected the scanner this morning and I am proud to say I am 100% check engine light free for the first time ever. I am proud because I did this by myself.

Why haven't I upgraded my car you ask? Well I have been doing internships that pay crap for the last 3 years and I finally got a full time job. I am going to see a 98 GSX next monday actually. I hope "she's the one" I have been wanting to buy an AWD DSM for years, looks like I'm getting my opportunity. These cars are getting rare by the day. I just hope this one lasts me as much as my current NT. I loved my NT, it took me from Arkansas to Florida to NYC to Chicago. I have 230K miles on her and it's running better than when I got her. I am almost sad to see her go. I might sell it back to the original owner in Arkansas if he is interested, he said he always loved that car.
 
hmm interesting, I would not have expected that line to leak, I have the same code, good information! Thanks

Check the lines that go from the throttle body to the charcoal canister (under the passenger headlight, just in front of the front wheel. There are 4 different devices all connected through lines; canister, purge valve, evap solenoid switch and a another solenoid by a different name. Then check your gas tank, then check your cap. If you can't find a disconnected or broken hose, take it to shop and tell them to do a smoke test to pinpoint the problem. Tell them you just want the car diagnosed and you'll repair yourself and it might be cheaper. Post when you fix it so you can help others as well.
 
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