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cheaper short shifter

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dsm96rs

10+ Year Contributor
269
0
Oct 11, 2010
Glendale, Arizona
ok so i seen it here and there but how many people have actually just had a shop cut and weld their shifter. i mostly just need it about 2-3 inches shorter. tired of punching my stereo when shifting ROFL. but thats really it right. just have shop cut and reweld. how does this trully effect the throw of it. read around but they all are confusing me. so yeah. thanks
 
People are really misinformed on here. Seriously go back to basic geometry, I put all these calculations in a thread exactly like this about 2 weeks ago. Cutting the shifter DOES reduce the throw. The ONLY difference between cutting the stock shifter and a "true" short shifter is that the pivot point is raised to reduce the force needed to MOVE the shifter. The pivot point does absolutely nothing with the throw. It's the height of the shifter that determines the throw of the shifter. If someone wants me to show the calculations again I will gladly prove everyone who says it doesn't effect the throw wrong..... again.

I cut the shifter in my 2g, if you want my cut one I can try and find it and I'll sell it to you for cheap and you can decide if you want to use it or at least determine how to do it yourself. It has about 1.5" shorter and DOES reduce the throw.
 
Take a look at this one, the red line is where the 1g shifter would be and closer to the radio


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<a href="http://s527.photobucket.com/albums/cc357/sabremike21/?action=view&amp;current=2010-12-14203700-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc357/sabremike21/2010-12-14203700-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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Take a look at this one, the red line is where the 1g shifter would be and closer to the radio


<center>
<a href="http://s527.photobucket.com/albums/cc357/sabremike21/?action=view&amp;current=2010-12-14203700-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc357/sabremike21/2010-12-14203700-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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</center>

How much did you cut that down? I'll be cutting mine since they don't make good short shifters for the 90. I plan on cutting roughly an inch which will reduce the throw ~.5".
 
I did this mod literally a week ago. I paid $15 at the junkyard for a shifter. I cut it just above the angle before it goes straight to the threads for the knob. Then I cut it at its widest point below the threads. Basically about 2 inches. Realizing it was hollow!.... So I found the thickest steel bolt I had laying around, cut it shorter to fit inside equal amounts, then filled thast sucker with JB Weld. Like a quarter tube. Also, you have to hold it in position somehow while it cures so I wrapped it in a paper towel then used locking pliers to hold it in place. Cured overnight, works like a charm, SOLID.

Also, I think cutting the original shifter stops you from messing anything up like your synchros since the lower half isn't adjusted in any way or form. And the throw is shorter. I like it.
 
Changing the height of the shifter most definitely does change the throw of the shifter. You move your hand less in relation to the shifter cables. It IS changing the pivot point.
 
Am I the only one that has heard terrible things about syncros being trashed by short shifters? I know I had a 1g a little while back, shifted great when I got it, threw a shortened shifter in it, and it would grind every time into second. Stock shifter back in, and a 2g shift knob, and bam, no more grinds.
 
im kinda confused as to how your punching your deck, ive got a 98 gsx and had a 98 gs, neither of which i hit the deck when shifting, but i did had a b&m on my gs, which raised the pivot point, shortning the shifts and i never even got close to hitting anything. maybe i dont drive hard enough :p
 
Am I the only one that has heard terrible things about syncros being trashed by short shifters? I know I had a 1g a little while back, shifted great when I got it, threw a shortened shifter in it, and it would grind every time into second. Stock shifter back in, and a 2g shift knob, and bam, no more grinds.

Because the bottom end of the stock shifter is exactly as it should be in relation to the pivot point. Anything but stock may be different and most likely would be.
 
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