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changing out intake manifold gasket, what all do i need to do?

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Simadowna119

10+ Year Contributor
200
1
Jul 11, 2009
Lincoln, Nebraska
so i definatly have a BIG leak coming from my intake manifold gasket so i just ordered one.... im guessing ill have to take the fuel rail and injectors, and throttle cables out... are there any other gaskets like O ring gaskets for injectors or anything i will need to do this job properly? can some people just let me know everything i need to do the job so i can buy the stuff?...

ive searched and theres one thread where the guy is asking the same exact thing i am but he has no replies so......

lets get some replies!..... thanks


oh and also my power steering just went out! but my bet is still on there looking good and turning..... does that just mean its my pump?
 
Dont forget to buy one of these, which doesnt come in the kits from the parts stores: INJECTOR INSULATOR. QUANTITY: 4. MD087060. Theyre around $9.00 or so, from the dealership, and yours are hard as a rock and leaking like hell, Im sure. :thumb:
 
Last edited:
You want the lower seals, uppers should be fine as they don't wear out very often, lowers last a long time as well actually.

As for the PS, I removed mine to clean up the engine bay so I pulled the pump and bracket and cut the lines down under the intake manifold, but now that I don't have PS I don't ever want to go back to it. I love not having, the car feels much more raw now.

Also if you're going to be getting prothane motor mounts or doing the window weld mod (I did works great and it's cheap) a good time to do that would be when the intake manifold is out, otherwise it's downright horrible even with a lift. (trust me I know)

whats this window weld mod i have never heard of it?
 
I can agree that stiffening up the motor mounts is a good idea while your IM is out. It will take an extra hour to take the mounts off and put them back, and require that your car be down for at least a full day if not several for it to dry properly but it will save your diff and by extension your transmission.

Eliminate Wheel Hop with Filled Motor Mounts
 
Or you could just bolt on new mounts with the bushings already in. A lot
More expensive but you won't have the downtime.
 
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