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Car Wont Start!!! Please Help

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dsmfreak21

Probationary Member
18
0
Nov 20, 2002
Orland Park,
So my car has been sitting in my garage for about seven months while ive been modding it. Mods include: 60 trim turbo, 3 inch intake, full apex exhaust, adfx sidemount, walbro 255, afcII, 650 injectors...the problem is that i go to start it and it cranks but it doesnt turn over...I check the pump to make sure im getting fuel which I am because when I pulled my spark plugs to check them out for spark they were drenched in fuel...so i dried them off and tried again....HUGE BACKFIRE! Im trying to diagnos this problem.....i think its my timing because i cranked the crank pulley by hand to line up the timing marks and then looked at my cam gears for alignment and they are nowhere near eachother....what i dont understand is that the car was running fine before i started gutting it out for all these mods...everything is hooked up correctly...ive had a couple of my buddies come take a look and listen but we cant figure out what it could be....Ive read about 25 different threads with people reporting the same problem and they say its either their timing or ecu....im just trying to get some feedback to point me in the right direction....ANY INFO WOULD BE USEFUL.....:cry:
 
I would definitely look into all the new parts you installed and what you had to remove and reinstall in the process. However, the way you described it, it sounds like the timing belt skipped a few teeth. When was it last changed?
 
You did a compression test to make sure your unlined cams/crank didn't bend any valves?

Reset ECU?
your 100% sure you're not 180deg out of timing?
Your using 2g TPS?
Base timing set at 5deg grounded, 8deg ungrounded?
double check your ECU harness?
No CEL thrown durring cranking?
Knock sensor plugged in?

Assuming your fine their it can only be a couple of things. Fuel and/or Spark.. If you don't all ready have a AFPR with gage for your 255hp I would strongly suggest doing so now to assure proper liner fuel delivery. You LTFT will love you for it! Trust me.

If you can get your hands on a fuel gage check your base fuel pressure to make sure you don't have a clogged filter/line. Should read 43.5 with the vac line removed. With the vac line connected you will drop 1psi for every 2 of vac. So if you have 15vac you will drop to 36psi. If your not dropping down the way you should (not your problem) you probably have a problem with your return line. A search on here will bring up some good info..

Test your coilpack/wires for correct resistance.. I've never had to do that so I don't know off hand what the service resistance specs are on the 2g coil pack and wires. If that works out. That brings you to MAF, TPS, CAS, ISC.

TPS are hard to diag without reading raw values (IE Dsmlink, EMS) TPS should sit around 32 at idle without the AC. The TPS location on the TB is what controls that value. You can try adjusting the TPS to see if that helps kick in your ISC. Your ISC position is suppose to be set at idle (no ac) around 30. It takes a very long time for those to drop, much more so then from a low value to a high value. You adjust that by the Biss screw to get any high idle down to where you want it, once that is you get it running.

Your CAS could also be off timing. Have you advanced or retarded timing while cranking? Typically when the CAS is bad you will get a CEL after cranking. A couple of things can happen with a bad CAS. You won't get any fuel supply because the ECU will not turn the fuel pump during cranking if it does not see a signal from the CAS. You can unbolt the CAS and spin it by had with the key on and have someone see if they can hear the pump clicking on.. A bad cam signal from the CAS can result in only one pair of spark plugs firing, sometimes twice as fast as they should, or none at all. You should be able to hear them, but it's best to pull them out and check individually.

I don't know. Just some things to think about.
 
Im stuck, Im almost posotive its my timing because like i said when i lined up the crank with the timing marks , the camgears were not aligned what so ever so...im pretty sure thats my problem...are there any more specific ways to tell if the timing is off?
 
If you get fuel you have crank pulse. #1 problem I see when people do mods and have the fuel drenched plugs with an occasional back fire is they don't have their plugs wires right. For some reason people always mess up the firing order. Start with the basics. You know you have spark if it back fires. You know you have fuel. I highly doubt it's your cam timing if it ran fine before you did the mods and didn't touch the timing belt.

Also so many people are in a rush to just throw an ECU at a no start problem. I've only seen one car fixed by an ecu replacment and it wouldn't fire the injectors. So go with the easy stuff. Make sure your coolant temp sensor is plugged in or you will have hard cold start.

Have fun.
 
Here is a pic of the cam gears....keep in mind this is when the crank pulley is lined up with the timing marks on bottom
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You need 3 things to start a car, SPARK, FUEL, COMPRESSION, So you have told us you have fuel, and you said you have spark. You have one more which is compression, get it tested. Do a compression test! Post back when you do this please. You most likely didn't hit any valves (We hope). First thing you should do before you do ANYTHING is re-do alignment of your timing belt.
 
This might help also. I have the same problem right now...Same exact problem. On the bottom of the tank is a drain plug. You should remove the gas because it is probably fouled out. Wouldn't hurt to try. Then through in some 93 and fuel system cleaner. You might have fouled out gas. This is a mystery I want to see solved. Post when fixed, because I have the same exact problem
 
Your intake cam is advanced by about 3 teeth it looks. That isn't a good thing.
 
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