2G Car will not roll. Please help.

[turtlebain]

This is where it lies - car is in the air. Both front & rear tires spin freely causing the opposing tire to spin in the opposite direction (which as I understand it just means it's spinning spider gears all around inside front and rear differentials.)

Fresh Engine build
Fresh Transmission build OEM besides 4-spider center diff & performance shimming.
New clutch, Clutch slave not hooked up
Engine, Transmission, Transfer case not even oiled yet (besides assembly lubes)

Gears all change with about the same amount of resistance using levers on the transmission itself not shift cables doubt it's a broken shift fork, I have done nothing to break it yet.

One thing I can say I hooked up the shifter cable bracket opposite, went to test out the shifter from inside the car. It felt wrong from inside the car. That's when I realized I put it on backwards. Then put it back on the right direction.

When you attempt to spin the drive shaft it sounds like there is a tiny bit of play then it's contacting metal in both directions.

Suggestions?

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

I was suggesting to him that when he locked the gears to torque the end shafts nuts on the transmission that the gears are still locked in place. Since the idea of locked the gears is to cause counter roatation to lock up shafts while torquing the nuts, it seems as both transmission shafts are engaged at the sametime by the condition he is having. I'm am the PO of the car and have tajen apart the transmission before myself and have been providing advice and brainstorming with turtlebain thru the build.

I suggested to remove end cover of trans and try to spin the shafts freely with clutch disengaged to see if they spin. If not then I'd say the gear still locked. Anyone else have advice b4 he starts ripping things apart?

 

[inthemidst]

It's up to you if you want to try this finish putting everything on and try to take it for a spin the engine might have enough torque to unlock it.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

I was thinking that the engine starting would push it out of gear too. But this is a fresh build, new motor lots of work and a good amount of money involved he doesn't wanna take a risk on 1st start up of new motor. Also if the shafts are locked the engine is gonna try to spin the input shaft and that's not gonna be good to do on start up of a fresh motor once he engages the clutch, not with engine parts breaking in. I could see that possibility being a bad idea at the sametime. He is also thinking 5th gear to reverse lock out effecting the trans. I haven't been inside these transmissions since 2011 so I forget most of the internals maybe someone has a schematic of the Trans they could supply for us to look at. I don't have any of the repair manuals anymore.

 

[turtlebain]

I've got all the manuals, what do you want to see?

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

I came across a good break down of the assembly as if u still had everything in the bell housing still just covers removed. I'm gonna search online for some parts blow outs to look for idea what wrong.

 

[turtlebain]

Interestingly enough I was able to pull the car back using a lawn mower and the wheels didn't drag. Could it just be that the high preloads used make it just hard to push/pull? This was the 1st time trying to move the car with axles attached to the wheels

And may be showing my ignorance here but would pushing the car in neutral cause the input shaft to turn? I wouldn't think so, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

 

[oneslowwdsm]

I'm pretty sure it's normal to have the wheels lock up after putting everything back together. I remember a while back having my car on jackstands and the front wheels wouldn't spin. I put a 32mm on the axle nut with a big tq wrench and broke them free. Something I could have done by just engaging the clutch and creeping forward. No harm in just letting the clutch out slowly to see if the car creeps forward or if there is resistance, which obviously you'd know there's a problem.

 

[pauleyman]

Yes input shafts spins in neutral

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

The transmissions input shaft spins all the time when in gear or not, if engine is on and clutch engaged the transmission spins. I'd say just to be sure pull the end cover and try to spin the main shaft with clutch in, if it spins then there is nothing binding or stopping it from spinning and isn't a problem. Did u already fill with fluid? I'd say the preloads and 4 spider diff along with all the "dry" parts inside (assume everything is lubed but you did clean all the assembly so it's not all coated in lube like after its been ran, parts still have to wear in... I wish I was a transmission builder and knew this stuff already) could cause resistance. I also don't have any experience with the 7.25 clutch either so I'm not sure if it adds any drag to the whole system I read very little bout that clutch type when I was building.

 

[turtlebain]

Yes input shafts spins in neutral

OK I wasn't sure. So since the clutch is engaged, you're also overcoming rotating assembly friction and high spring rate valve springs on 272s which is relatively difficult to spin by hand with a breaker bar.

I think I'm just going to start it up.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Yea, it's hard to turn over by hand. You put slave on and pushed clutch in, same results?

 

[turtlebain]

The transmissions input shaft spins all the time when in gear or not, if engine is on and clutch engaged the transmission spins. I'd say just to be sure pull the end cover and try to spin the main shaft with clutch in, if it spins then there is nothing binding or stopping it from spinning and isn't a problem. Did u already fill with fluid? I'd say the preloads and 4 spider diff along with all the "dry" parts inside (assume everything is lubed but you did clean all the assembly so it's not all coated in lube like after its been ran, parts still have to wear in... I wish I was a transmission builder and knew this stuff already) could cause resistance. I also don't have any experience with the 7.25 clutch either so I'm not sure if it adds any drag to the whole system I read very little bout that clutch type when I was building.

Wouldn't the wheels spinning (not dragging) while pulling the car indicate there's nothing binding inside the transmission? I wouldn't want to pull the cover unnecessarily just to find out what we already know. right?

Still not filled with fluid. I have to go out and buy clutch fluid. All I have here is brake fluid.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

That's why I asked if you filled with fluid. It sounds ok to start if car moved. I was suggesting a simple test, put a socket on a impact driver and free spin transmission. Just cause you don't wanna start the motor and it slam to a stop, break in is important as u know. But I'd say it's about 80% ok to try. Only 20% doubt in it, but like I said the transmission really only goes together one way so not much u can do wrong.

Start her up, make sure to send me a video if u do. I think I still have my 1st start up video but it's crappy.

DOT 3 fluid is fine for clutch line. I'd say for sure do clutch fluid etc 1st. So you moved car with it in neutral u didn't try in gear yet right? In gear I'd say the tires would have skipped like a 4x4 on dry pavement making a k-turn

 

[pauleyman]

Why you just turn over motor by hand? Input shaft will turn.

 

[turtlebain]

Still won't be able to do brakes. Ordered a reman caliper. my original Left Front had a snapped off bleeder screw. I took it to Corey at STM he tried heat and an easy out. Broke his easy out bit. It'll be here Saturday, Tires on Monday. At least I'll be able to heat cycle it.

 

[turtlebain]

Why you just turn over motor by hand? Input shaft will turn.

I'll give it a shot.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Put a socket on crank bolt do it that way. It should turn easy between compression strokes

That reminds me I have to buy 4 new bleeder for the Audi cause I'm afraid of them breaking last time I bleed my brakes. Those calipers were new on the car at about 90k. I got them at Napa for a decent price.