2G Car stuttering, lots of CELs

[MattiaFTW]

It's a 1998 eclipse GST engine, ECU and harness. In an older 1996 EU GS. Everything is stock, kind of.

So big story coming up. Couple weeks ago i got thrown a CEL. Moved some cables and it disappeard. Later found out that it was a CAS CEL cause every time i reseated it it would disappear. So i order a new CAS and also bought the plug. It had couple weeks of shipping time so i had to find a way to keep my car running. I put in a 1995-1996 CAS (on the CPS side type) and car ran. Bit roughly but no CEL or other weird things going on.

Package came in and i changed everything. Started the car. And instantly got the CEL. But after letting the car warm up a bit it disappeard. Following day i started driving with the CEL but no weird stutters or anything. After couple of minutes in. The CEL started turning off under 1.5k rpm then it turned off only under 2k etc. It completely turned off but the car ran like shit.

When barely on throttle it stutters. When on gas at 1k -2k it stutters like hell. Idle it constantly drops to 600 rpm. So decided to plug out the CAS. And it drove like normal with the CEL ofc. Then plugged in CAS and unplugged MAF. Still CEL but car ran fine. Finally went to local garage to read the codes. It where 15 MFI type codes (Tps, misfire cyl1, misfire cyl 2, coolant temp sens, CAS, speed sensor, AFS sensor, knock sensor, injector, ecl-4at and alternator contact.)

Starting to think got some problem with the 5v circuit. But dunno where to start testing. Anyone any idea?

 

[chrysler kid]

Yeah that one would be perfect, but its way too dark.

From all the codes my hunch is you have a wiring issue on the harness that goes from the back of the thermostat housing to the alternator and cam seal, or that cam sensor wiring itself

 

[MattiaFTW]

The cam sensor read all the correct voltages. Any idea how to check if it's thermostat to cam seal harness.

 

[TerminalTalon]

If all of these issues happened after the CAS install then that’s probably the issue. I’m going back to the “The CEL started turning off under 1.5k rpm then it turned off only under 2k etc. It completely turned off but the car ran like shit.”. Does the actual Check engine light on the dash go out? It’s a confusing statement.

 

[MattiaFTW]

So I'm gonna try my best explaining. When the car is cold and i just started it. No cel on the dash. If i start driving a cel appears when hitting 2k rpm or above. When I drop under the 2k rpm it turns off again. After couple min this same thing happends only at 3k rpm and after a couple other minutes at 4k rpm. Untill it hits 7/8k and then it stays off. At that moment (no cel on dash) when I slightly give gas or when I give normal gas under 2k rpm. The car start stuttering like hell.
So with cel on dash it drives like normal.
No cel on the dash it drives like ok except the 2 things i listed before.
Hope this clarifies a bit more the situation.
Thanks for the help

 

[TerminalTalon]

Is it flashing? Flashing is the indication of a bad misfire. If it is coming on at a certain rpm, staying solid and then going out I believe that’s timing related. Still pointing to the sensor.

 

[MattiaFTW]

I tried another cas but no luck. I will probably try the other cas again. The one on the driver side. Keep u updated

 

[MattiaFTW]

Got the problem after countless hours of diagnose. It's so simple i probably overlooked. Did all the diagnosis in the manual and found out that the blue/red signal cable ( from the cas) was giving 3.5v. in the manual it said It shouldn't be more than 2.5v. that's probably f ing with the ecu and tripping so weird. So put on the camera cas and car is running ok. Car still don't like the camgear cas. But better than before. Thanks everyone and hopefully it can help someone in the future

 

[TerminalTalon]

If either of the timing sensors is failing or the timing is drifting as far as the trigger wheel or loose belt it can cause some fun. I hope we helped.