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2G Car starts and runs for 5 seconds then instantly shuts off.

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STORTZ77

10+ Year Contributor
106
0
Nov 11, 2010
Sullivan, Illinois
I just put my talon back together and started it last night for the first time. It ran fine and idled then today i went to start it and it would just crank and crank. I missed around with checking pigtales and what not and eventually the car started, then died 5 seconds later and that is all it does every time i start it
 
First of all what did you take apart? I would check the wires to the coil and to the tps ,crank, and cam sensor wires. Have some one jiggle the wires while trying to start. I just had same problem on my 420a its was the cam angle sensor it was shorting the signal wire to the ground.
 
i missed with the cam angle sensor and eventually got it to run longer, but it will occasionly only run for 5 secs, but if i disconnect the battery and then re connect ad then keep doign that eventually it runs longer, so im guessing that would mean a short somewhere but not sure and i had the head off
 
I bought a non runing talon tsi awd, i was told the car had a blown headgasket and he didnt have time to fix, it was half torn apart so i just pulled the head and replaced the hg, after getting everything back together these are my problems, for one the car sometimes just cranks and cranks and cranks but will not fire, to get it to start i have to crank then unplug battery then plug back in untill it will start, once it is running it barely will rev, in neutral it will rev slow but i can hear the turbo spool then fluter, when i put it into drive or reverse the car will just barely move and if i try to get it to rev up it wont it just slowly slowly climbs and does not build boost at all. At idle it shows it is only carrying -3 of vaccum. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
 
have you checked for any boost leaks? Does the engine sound airy during a rev? Could also be an exhaust leak. When my exhaust pipe had one I couldn't rev past 2.5k and I felt like I had no power.

As for the crank is it a new battery or old one? Could be that or coil pack starter etc
 
The turbo shouldn't be spooling at idle. With that said have you checked the maf and made sure everything is plugged in correctly?
 
Its not spooling at idle LOL, when i rev in neutral it spools, but i did a boost leak test and found a couple leaks, but the main being on my j pipe, would that cause it to run so bad?

update: found my starting issue, it was simply a wire on my cas that had got chewed by the cam gears, got it reconnected and starts easily now however; it is still doing the slow rev and only carryig -4 vaccum at idle, its throwing a code, so i will hopefully be able to get it read and go from there
 
Sorry misread your post about the spool. Anyway any boost leak has the potential to cause a problem. when you get the code read post back to let us know what it is.
 
I've been having starting issues and my car, the few times it has started it, has ran like crap. It would act like it had no power and if you revved it the rpms slowly climbed. I just fixed all my boost leaks, and I've been checking electrical connections and I found my CAS with one of the three wires disconnected (chewed in half). I reconnected this wire, then fired it up it started and idled but still pretty lousy when you try to give it gas. I let it sit over night then tried to start today and it will only crank. Does this sound like i need to adjust my CAS?
 
if you have an extra ingition module around plug it in and see if thats the problem that sounds alot like what mine did it was a 1g though not shure if 2g still has that module. what is cas abbrieviatiion for crank angle sensor? i have 3 extra angle sensors 1g if thats your problem and a 1g will work let me know and ill see about getting one to ya. they cost alot new $600 in alaska
 
Make sure that the wire that you re-connected is connected well. From there i would check to see that all 4 cylinders have spark and all 4 injectors are firing.
 
Recheck the timing marks...
4" vacuum and very slow accel. sounds like you have one or both of the cams off by a tooth or 2.
If the valves are opening too early or too late, the engine will not make vacuum.
Start with the basics once you verify timing marks. Vac. leaks at the intake or misrouted lines. Forgotten connectors and connectors that are not fully seated can cause havoc as well.
 
The CAS probably would (P0340), the crank probably won't, though it can. If the crank sensor is bad though, the car won't turn over normally.

Welcome to the hell of 95 ignition problems.... Read some of my previous early threads. You'll see why I switched to a 1g CAS after screwing around with the 95 ignition system for as long as I did...

I was on the verge of setting my 95 on fire with a bucket of napalm and driving it into a salt mine sink hole in the middle of the desert before I found my 1g CAS and did the stuff I needed to to make it run RIGHT.
 
Last edited:
my car will just crank and crank for days ive checked spark fuel and all the stuff on the list of a no start dsm guide and cant find any reason besides the cam or crank sensors being bad or not functioning properly.
 
ok, so i'm not 100% sure for 2g's but i know with 1g's it does. on my 91 when it wouldn't start, this is one the codes we got on the ecm link screen, once we wired in a 2g cam angle sensor, it started just fine and no more code.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
my car will just crank and crank for days ive checked spark fuel and all the stuff on the list of a no start dsm guide and cant find any reason besides the cam or crank sensors being bad or not functioning properly.


I am having the same problem. I replaced the cam sensor last fall and my buddy helping me said the timing was off by a tooth so he fixed that. I filled the tank with gas, drove it around for about 10 min, then parked it on my inclined driveway and it hasnt started since. Plugs and wires are new and coils tested good. I decided to replace the fuel pump and filter (filter was oe with 130k so figured good idea anyway and pump swapped for a walbro 255 hp). No check engine light. Not sure if I got a faulty sensor or bad connection, or where to look next??? Cranks all day but will not fully turn over, or if it does it only runs for half a second.
 
- Did you remove a spark plug, connect it and ground its casing, crank to visually see the spark? That would eliminate all ignition components (eg. not just test resistance of them).
- Perhaps you have a leaky fuel pressure regulator so no fuel pressure at the rail.
 
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