The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G Car runs then dies and wont start again crank no start.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

91tsieli

Probationary Member
19
1
Oct 24, 2022
Colorado, Colorado
So I have a 91TSi, I just recently put a standalone ECU in it and after doing so the next day it started having a horrible coolant leak.

The car sat for about a week before I got the new heater core hoses and after installing them and starting the car to make sure it was all good, the car ran for a little bit and then just died. So I started it again and after a shorter time of it running it just died again. Then it just started to spin over and no start. So I let the car sit with a battery charger on it for a few hrs the next day and the car started again no issues. I let it idle for 5 or 10 minutes then started to drive it around my neighborhood just to make sure it was good. After a few minutes the car just cut off and when trying to start it again it was just a crank no start.

After letting it sit again most the day, I tried starting it and it started and ran fine to get back to my place. But now it's back to crank no start. I'm almost positive it's getting fuel but I don't think it's getting spark. It 's hard to tell cuz I had to turn it over and check the plug that was out.

Does anyone have an idea what might cause this or what direction I should go in to get it running smooth again. I just don't wanna start replacing a bunch of things for it to just keep this issue.
 


any no start can be stared by reading and doing whats suggested here , no start whether its sitting for years or couple of hours something isnt working or failed..
 
So the car started today and ran goof for about 5 minutes then died and I saw it was flashing the engine light like this. I tried starting it up again and it was back to crank and no start but after about 15 minutes I tried again and it started but was holing the engine light till it died again. The car has a gx4 standalone ecu not installed by me so if anyone can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Hey guys so from my last question about the car dieing and not starting after it dies and just cranking.

I found 2 codes from the link EUC. The codes should be pictured down below. But basically said the TPS was getting too much voltage (I think). So I tried testing the TPS by piggy back wiring the two connectors together and running two extra wires off the ground and output voltage pins.

The reading were a little weird at first it read 1v, but after messing with the volt reader and the connections it was reading from .54 to .56 and the tolerance on the guide I was following to test the TPS it said from .48 to .52 volts does anyone have an idea what I should do to fix this.

Any help is appreciated
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Assuming you have a stock 91 throttle body, there are two bolts that hold the TPS in place. You loosen them and twist the TPS to change the output voltage.

I wouldn't worry too much if it's really reading 0.54 to 0.56v when the throttle is closed.

Post your picture so we can see the error code.

I'm not sure how many people here are using a Link GX4 ECU. That's going to make it much more difficult to diagnose what's actually causing your problems. From your profile I can't imagine why the PO would have chosen that route. Was the car far more modified in the past?
 
Assuming you have a stock 91 throttle body, there are two bolts that hold the TPS in place. You loosen them and twist the TPS to change the output voltage.

I wouldn't worry too much if it's really reading 0.54 to 0.56v when the throttle is closed.

Post your picture so we can see the error code.

So when I got the car it didn't seem like anything super crazy was done to it. Just the MAF, had a 3in Megan exhaust, full emissions delete with a MBC.

Also it started with these code and then after driving it it died and threw up more codes but I can't find that picture.

The tuner said to clear em and see what happens, the car started and seemed to drive fine but I'm still worried about codes coming back.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
Was it you or a prior owner that chose the Link GX4 ECU? If it was you, why?
Not sure I think it was to get a better tune on it because I'm pretty sure it had the stock ecu before it was switched not long before i got it. The guy said it was tuned on an older setup than dsm link. It was tuned back in the day with the gm maft and this other thing that kinda looked like a stereo deck above the radio. But that was taken out when I got it and it had a gmmaft, megan 3in exhaust, and he said that it had an emissions delete and a fiav and iac block off and then someone put the a mbc on it not too long before it got the new ecu. All the emissions and an oem exhaust has been put back on it except for the mbc, it also has a map senso to run without the gm maft. But the gm maft is still wired up to hold the air fileter on but the gm maft hasnt been pluged in since i got it and the old owner said its fine to take out but he never got to it. And I think it sat for a few months and was sold mainly because of the center diff issue that I wasn't really aware about. But that's all I really know about the car besides it being kind a buckt I'm just trying to get it back to awd and running good enough to pass emissions and get plates so I can get it back on the road.
 
Both error codes have to do with TPS. It's possible the TPS is bad or the power wire is grounding out somehow? Have you adjusted the TPS in PCLink? It tales 2 seconds so look into it.
+1 for this. That appears to be the only error you have so the adjusting the TPS should hopefully fix that.

Also as Far as the "Link is not responding correctly" according to Link ECU you can ignore that if you aren't having any connection issues between the ECU and your laptop.

Not sure I think it was to get a better tune on it because I'm pretty sure it had the stock ecu before it was switched not long before i got it. The guy said it was tuned on an older setup than dsm link. It was tuned back in the day with the gm maft and this other thing that kinda looked like a stereo deck above the radio. But that was taken out when I got it and it had a gmmaft, megan 3in exhaust, and he said that it had an emissions delete and a fiav and iac block off and then someone put the a mbc on it not too long before it got the new ecu. All the emissions and an oem exhaust has been put back on it except for the mbc, it also has a map senso to run without the gm maft. But the gm maft is still wired up to hold the air fileter on but the gm maft hasnt been pluged in since i got it and the old owner said its fine to take out but he never got to it. And I think it sat for a few months and was sold mainly because of the center diff issue that I wasn't really aware about. But that's all I really know about the car besides it being kind a buckt I'm just trying to get it back to awd and running good enough to pass emissions and get plates so I can get it back on the road.
I hate to say it but you might be better off Putting a ECMLink chipped ECU in it if you aren't going to utilize all the extra functionality of the Link ECU.

Link software is incredibly detailed and not very many people In these forums have that ECU setup. You'll have better support for your issues from the forum using Stock ECU with ECMlink.
 
+1 for this. That appears to be the only error you have so the adjusting the TPS should hopefully fix that.

Also as Far as the "Link is not responding correctly" according to Link ECU you can ignore that if you aren't having any connection issues between the ECU and your laptop.


I hate to say it but you might be better off Putting a ECMLink chipped ECU in it if you aren't going to utilize all the extra functionality of the Link ECU.

Link software is incredibly detailed and not very many people In these forums have that ECU setup. You'll have better support for your issues from the forum using Stock ECU with ECMlink.
What's the big difference between ecm link and link ecu besides the tuning being different.
 
What's the big difference between ecm link and link ecu besides the tuning being different.
ECM Link is more basic tuning software. Lots of people make great power on the factory ECU with ECMlink on it.

Link ECU is a standalone ECU with a completely different software on it. It's much more robust and take a TON more setup to get it dialed in correctly. Not to mention support for additional safeties like different types knock sensors that you can tune to specific frequencies and thresholds so you don't get false knock. Other safeties like boost limited, fuel pressure limits, oil pressure limited and almost countless customization for inputs and outputs for different sensors.

For instance I can repurpose almost all of my Idle control outputs to other things such as additional fans, or fuel pumps, different sensors.

It's just extreme robust as where ECMlink is made for a more basic tuning software but it's still great!
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

It stopped throwing a tps code and when I tested the tps it was good. And after starting it and driving it it died again and wouldn't start but thease are all the codes it threw. I was told to clear em and when I did the car ran and drove home fine
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

It stopped throwing a tps code and when I tested the tps it was good. And after starting it and driving it it died again and wouldn't start but thease are all the codes it threw. I was told to clear em and when I did the car ran and drove home fine
My bad it was throwing the TPS fault again but when it was tested by the manufacturer spec it was good
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

It stopped throwing a tps code and when I tested the tps it was good. And after starting it and driving it it died again and wouldn't start but thease are all the codes it threw. I was told to clear em and when I did the car ran and drove home fine
All this looks like some sort of MAF harness wiring issue all those look to be related to that area.

All of the "below value" errors are just custom notifications you can setup in the ECU to notify you if something is above or below value you set them at.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top