Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[EclipsedFLA]

you can do a set up of one fan pushing air on the front of the radiator, and one on the other side pulling. Thats my next project, adding one more fan, and creating a duct, But on that im not entirely sure what to use for duct work...

does anyone have a picture of homemade duct work or what/how they made it?

Also, putting shims under the hood to raise it almost like a cowl hood has been known to work..
Maxwell_eclipse shimmed his.

 

[Kalabalik1]

So what was the solution then??????????????

 

[Chrispy0530]

Also, putting shims under the hood to raise it almost like a cowl hood has been known to work..
Maxwell_eclipse shimmed his.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/road-course-autocross/440344-autox-hood-alterations.html

 

[turboglenn]

I've typed it hundreds of times, nothing except OEM fans will fix it. I wasted hundreds on every brand of hi flow slim dsm out there, and got nothing. The day I touted my IC PIPES to fit the OEM hand back in well let's just say I can drive all day in 95-105* temps and never get over 198* no othry option. You can try ot all but in the end of u was SC u need good shrouded fans

 

[donniekak]

I can't say enough about the spal fans.

I've got 2 spal fans and an aluminum radiator, and my car still overheats going up steep, slow grades with the ac on. I learned my lesson when I lived in Phoenix. I'm going with 2 stock fans, and if that doesn't work, bye bye ac, and overheating. I do have a huge fmic, also.

 

[Lou98GSX]

my car started to run hotter when i went external on the o2 housing . what i tried first was a larger radiator but that didn't help . then i tried a colder thermostat and that worked . i have the oem main fan on p/s side and a pusher fan between the front mount and the condenser . one other thing is that i wired the main fan so it goes on high speed first .

 

[re-rx7]

Ducting Ducting Ducting. Air will take the path of least resistance. Try to mimic the OEM duct as much as possible. Heat management is something i learned with a Rx7, and i will tel you ducting and Oem heat shields do wonders.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

the sandwitch plate on the oil filter housing is the other common mix problem but he has tightened it so hopfully thers no issue ther

Its not tightening it that keeps it from.mixing at the cooler. I've had mine work its way loose enough to leak oil and never got coolant/oil mixing. The coolant is.completly sealed in side the sandwich cooler so.if its.mixing at this part the Part has gone bad and would need.to.be replaced.

If its overheating and mixing 99% chance its your head gasket.

 

[blindboarder_02]

Fill the overfill bottle to the max line. Drive the car for a while and let it sit until it cools down. If the overfill bottle is dry, the engine is drawing the coolant from there. ( Good sign the HG is bad )

Car warmed up, radiator cap off, funnel in place, watch for bubbles in the coolant. Alot of bubbles is a good sign the HG is toast.

There is a chemical test you could do with the engine up to temp and running. It will change colors from blue to green or yellow. It will change colors with the presence of Carbon Monoxide

 

[Dsm42oA]

i can let my car idle for almost 30mins and my fan wont turn on. it will stay at normal running temp. when idling, but if i take it for a 5 min drive it will start to over heat. and neither fan will still turn on. what could be my problem?

 

[ManticSHadow]

Bad wiring or bad fans, check the fuse and norms as usual alot of people prefer to just wire up the fans to always be on or to a manual switch.

 

[Dsm42oA]

well i go out and check the sensors under my thermostat housing. and the larger one, the two wires are starting to break open and have coolant coming out of the plastic coating around them. would this be the problem?

 

[luv2rallye]

yep most likely.

 

[berkut]

CAR: 97 GST, 80,000 miles, aluminum radiator, 16g turbo, apexi 3" downpipie and exhaust, 2.5" IC piping, RFL BOV, FMIC, stock injectors, stock fuel pump, GM MAF 3", wastegate and BOV individually run to IM.

Hello, my car was stock as of last week, a buddy had a lot of nice parts laying around for a GST and so i bought a bunch of stuff off him and spent the time swapping it over.

The car is driving wonderfully now, except for it wants to run hot. I noticed the exhaust manifold the other night was a glowing a very faint red color and this really worried me. From what I read it sounds like the car is running too lean. Anytime I go into the boost the engine temps quickly climb to around 230 and at that point I pull over before I cause any major issues.

The water pump is new, and so is the radiator, rad. cap, fluids, and the ecu temp sensor. There are no leaks and so I dont think the problem is there.

There are no boost leaks, no exhaust leaks.

I searched a few things like adjusting the GM MAF as a possible solution. But would my stock fuel system be a bigger problem?

What do you guys and girls think?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

yes your stock fuel system can be a problem. you can melt your motor without supporting fuel and tuning mods and a way to monitor knock.

how much boost are you running on that 16G, you need bigger injectors and a way to tune before you run the car anymore.

could also be your thermostat being stuck closed.

 

[fonzi90Tsi]

^^^this

As well as installing a fmic and removing the plastic ducting causes less air to flow through the radiator..

Do you have any of your stock heat shields on?

 

[berkut]

yes your stock fuel system can be a problem. you can melt your motor without supporting fuel and tuning mods and a way to monitor knock.

how much boost are you running on that 16G, you need bigger injectors and a way to tune before you run the car anymore.

could also be your thermostat being stuck closed.

With the wastegate running to the IM its running at around 15psi.

How do you monitor knock? After reading up on SAFC's it seems like people have to log their engine timing and watch for drops as indication that the ecu found a knock and had to pull timing, is there any other way?

The Thermostat is new too. When I got the car I pulled the motor and did a thorough check up and replacement of parts.

I have an SAFC NEO also that I havent installed yet, I'm still reading up on these STFT and LTFT and trying to wrap my head around that. Which I also need to order a Wide Band O2 sesnor for.

For the Fuel system, will a Fuel pump rewire suffice or am I already too deep for that trick? I am having trouble knowing what mods I need with so many available...

^^^this

As well as installing a fmic and removing the plastic ducting causes less air to flow through the radiator..

Do you have any of your stock heat shields on?

1) How do I create more airflow then throught the Radiator with this setup?
2) I have the heat sheat on the manifold still installed if there are others no I don't have those.

 

[fonzi90Tsi]

With the wastegate running to the IM its running at around 15psi.

The Thermostat is new too. When I got the car I pulled the motor and did a thorough check up and replacement of parts.

I have an SAFC NEO also that I havent installed yet, I'm still reading up on these STFT and LTFT and trying to wrap my head around that. Which I also need to order a Wide Band O2 sesnor for.

For the Fuel system, will a Fuel pump rewire suffice or am I already too deep for that trick? I am having trouble knowing what mods I need with so many available...



1) How do I create more airflow then throught the Radiator with this setup?
2) I have the heat sheat on the manifold still installed if there are others no I don't have those.

Only way I have seen is custom ducting/hood vents. There is a big thread on it somewhere. Let me see if I can find it.

 

[95twinturboawd]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/440013-evo-8-9-hood-vent.html
This is what I did, after my fmic it was running way to hot, I also removed the rear hood rubber molding

 

[Archer Fabrications]

To monitor knock you can get a knock sensor system (very expensive for what it is) or you can get DSMLink. or AEM EMS. DSMlink is recommended by probably 95% of the users here and makes your ECU fully programable.

does your coolant still look like coolant? or is there oil in there at all. id hope you dont have a blown HG if you have a new thermostat, Rad etc... it is most likely you are running too lean for your own good and as i said above dont run the car until you have your SAFC hooked up and tuned. STFT is short term fuel trim, it is used to correlate with your front o2 sensors voltage bounces to target a 14.7 AFR. LTFT (long term fuel trim) is mostly used to monitor global fuel % which is directly related to calibration of the size of your injectors. if you go to www.ecmlink.com/wiki they will have this info in more detail for ya.

 

[Chicken Patty]

If you have an AFC and you want a very cheap logging solution without having to switch to ECM Link or something look into EVO SCAN.

EvoScan OBDII Mitsubishi Subaru DataLogger Scantool

This way you can at least log and see what you are doing.

Now, are you running stock fans or aftermarket fans with no shroud?

 

[AngelOfPassion]

1) How do I create more airflow then throught the Radiator with this setup?
2) I have the heat sheat on the manifold still installed if there are others no I don't have those.

Before tearing your hood apart or buying a new one I would suggest doing some of your own duct work. Search Ducting for some ideas just ignore the extreme ones for now.

But buying some air conditioner insulation from Lowes or Home Depot would only cost a few dollars as well as some aluminum or plastic. The goal is to force air through your FMIC and then create a "tunnel" type atmosphere to force that air through your radiator. Air travels in the path of least resistance and can escape through seams and under the car instead of going through your FMIC and Rad fins.

It will really work wonders if you block off all around your FMIC and all around your rad and then making a plastic tunnel so air cannot escape out the sides. Then if you are still having trouble you could invest in hood mods that are more expensive.

As far as tuning goes ECMlink is one of the best based on a lot of tuners opinions here. It can be on the expensive side but it gives you so much functionality. You might want to switch to a 190lph fuel pump and some larger injectors and then use ECMlink to control your fuel. Then you won't run so lean. If you get a wideband Air/Fuel ratio gauge you will also know when your car is running lean so you won't have this problem in the future.

Sorry for the block of text but you have a very similiar setup to mine that I am building. Check out my build thread if you want more guidance. The tuners on here helped me pick all these parts to go together.

Here is a link: 1997 Eclipse GSX 4NXIETY

 

[Davids97Eclipse]

My car has been over heating recently decided to look at a log when it is fully warmed up about 210 degrees I let it idle and the temputure will continue to go up to about 240 degrees i don't let it get any higher but when i rev the engine it goes back down.

I have check thermostat and radiator cap could i be a bad water pump? Any input would be great!

 

[96' Eclipse GS]

Time for a "Water pump". You can flush the system and see the results, if they do improve, it is a blockage or worn water pump.

 

[Lou98GSX]

you said you checked your thermostat i would just change it maybe its not fully opening .