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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Check your thermostat. It could be not opening all the way causing the overheating.

Also check that you don't have any air pockets in your cooling system.
 
Fans may not be seald properly to the rad, if this is the case, then they will pull air across the back of the rad and not thu it.

Also having a monster FMIC will cause overheating issues, due to the air having to be pull thu another core.
 
FYI being low on coolant is well, obviously bad but there is something else to consider. When the fluid level is low enough, the dash gauge wont even register a hot engine, all the while the engine is constantly overheating... and you don't even know it. The coolant sensor works based on convection, so if it isn't SUBMERGED in coolant like its supposed to, it doesn't reflect an even close reading to what the coolant (engine) temp really is. Since the fluid level is low like that, you now have lots of air in the system, this lowers the boiling point drastically, basically boiling continously. The complicated radiator pressure cap has now just turned into a simple splash cap :(.

In my observation, a flickering temp gauge on the dash is a very good indication I was low on coolant

Well it was low on coolant due to the leaking water pump (to which I've bought a replacement), but I checked the coolant level every other day to stay in top of the coolant level. I know what you're saying about the temp gauge not reading hot if there's no coolant, and totally agree. However, mine had coolant and the gauge constantly fluctuated between normal and 3/4 up to max temp. That confused the #*%@ out of me as well as the cold lower radiator hose. I'm guessing there's a possible clog somewhere, but when I squeezed the lower hose, I could hear the coolant gurgle up in the water neck, so I'm not sure what to look for now. Any thoughts??
 
Are you sure the coolant level wasn't even a little bit low from the water pump leaking? I can't remember but I don't believe you should hear distinct gurgling sounds from the neck when squeazing hose, if its completely topped off and sealed. The pressure cap shouldn't pop open and release coolant under that situation either
 
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Gotta agree with everyone wanting you to check under the cap. You can have coolant in the overflow and be bone dry under the cap. Especially with leaks you are experiencing. Simple stuff first. Make sure its full, fix the leaks and see what you have.
 
Are you sure the coolant level wasn't even a little bit low from the water pump leaking? I can't remember but I don't believe you should hear distinct gurgling sounds from the neck when squeazing hose, if its completely topped off and sealed. The pressure cap shouldn't pop open and release coolant under that situation either

The cap has never popped open, that was never stated. The gurgle sounds are when I've had the cap off and fill the coolant from the water neck and squeeze on the lower hose to ensure the coolant actually drains to the bottom and has circulation. Of course the coolant level has been low at times, but never below the minimum unless the car was just sitting for days due to the leak. Once I get the time to do these repairs, im flushing the entire cooling system so that might help too. Can't do more until I get enough time off work to take care of it.
 
I have had coolant that sat for awhile (like a year) and turned into this mud like substance that turned out to be very hard to flush. When I finally got it all out I had went through 2 TS. So if your bottom hose is still cold you may have to replace your TS again after a flush.
 
I have had coolant that sat for awhile (like a year) and turned into this mud like substance that turned out to be very hard to flush. When I finally got it all out I had went through 2 TS. So if your bottom hose is still cold you may have to replace your TS again after a flush.


Good to know. :thumb:
 
k sounds good, i got a thermostat from the auto parts and it is too big so i guess i need to tell them to get one for a different year.
 
The car cannot over heat if their is no thermostat it will just keep the coolant cycling and your car will never reach normal car temperature. I had the same problem, try removing air pockets from your coolant system. Jack the car from the front as far up as you can so your motor is flat at eye level make sure the car is cold so when you open radiator cap their is no built pressure. Start the car up, make sure your a/c is not running. It may take up to 45 minutes, but let the car run and watch the fans kick on, when the car reaches operating temp. Make sure it does it twice, but also when air pockets come out you need to fill up the radiator at the same time and when the fan kicks on the second time make sure to put the radiator cap on.
 
yes it can, the coolent can flow too fast and not transfer the heat from the coolant to the rad fins

I thought no thermostat would make the car run cold only since fluid doesnt stop moving. correct me if im wrong but i thought thats why the thermostat opens and closes

k sounds good, i got a thermostat from the auto parts and it is too big so i guess i need to tell them to get one for a different year.

had the same problem with pepboys you might have a 1g housing and water outlet. those are smaller than the stock 2g ones.
 
Okay so im looking at this car and he said it have a overheating problem. Here is the link to show what is done to the car:
1993 Eagle Talon

So after he told me how it overheated he said he replaced the thermostat which fixed the problem. Then he said he was told by someone that he should also replace the head gasket which the car is in shop as im posting this. He is also putting ARP headstuds in it while its apart. Its a 6 bolt engine if that helps. Would it be a good idea to look at this car. It scares me because it had this problem. What do you guys think and what should i ask him about? :confused: I had a different 93 with the 7 bolt in it and i bought it with a boost leak and other stuff and it ended up crank walking i dont want another car like this. i did maintenance all the time. 2500 miles i would do a oil change only 93 octane in it. So please give me a opinion. Thanks.
 
Okay so im looking at this car and he said it have a overheating problem. Here is the link to show what is done to the car:
1993 Eagle Talon

So after he told me how it overheated (filled the whole overflow tank) he said he replaced the thermostat which he said hes not sure if it fixed the problem because he didn't drive it much but it didnt overheat while he drove it. Then he said he was told by someone that he should also replace the head gasket which the car is in shop as im posting this. He is also putting ARP headstuds in it while its apart. Its a 6 bolt engine if that helps. Would it be a good idea to look at this car. It scares me because it had this problem. What do you guys think and what should i ask him about? I had a different 93 with the 7 bolt in it and i bought it with a boost leak and other stuff and it ended up crank walking i dont want another car like this. i did maintenance all the time. 2500 miles i would do a oil change only 93 octane in it. So please give me a opinion. Thanks.
 
Probably blew the headgasket beating on it with no fuel injector mods... :toobad: If I was in the market for a 1gb I would entertain the idea of looking at that car, thoroughly of course, especially if the price doesn't go up with the fresh new headgasket and ARP studs.

Use this, you'll know if its worth hard money or not. DSM Used Car Buyers Guide

Be sure to VERIFY all the modifications that are listed, if you can't visibly check them then ask for mod and maintenance receipts. There's nothing worse than buying a car with x,y,z for mods and, then once you dig through it, find it was stock.

:dsm:
 
Probably blew the headgasket beating on it with no fuel injector mods... :toobad: If I was in the market for a 1gb I would entertain the idea of looking at that car, thoroughly of course, especially if the price doesn't go up with the fresh new headgasket and ARP studs.

Use this, you'll know if its worth hard money or not. DSM Used Car Buyers Guide

Be sure to VERIFY all the modifications that are listed, if you can't visibly check them then ask for mod and maintenance receipts. There's nothing worse than buying a car with x,y,z for mods and, then once you dig through it, find it was stock.

:dsm:

Yeah he said i need to put those 880s in but i would sell them and get 1000 and up to run e85 and he hasnt said anything about the price going up. Hes have a shop do the repairs can most shops replace a head gasket and bolts? I will only take it to a reputable shop. And yeah i learned that from my first buy i got screwed so i will deffinatly be looking harder.

Also in the motor pic the overflow tank is in a bad spot where alot of heat is can that also affect the cooling system? The car looks very clean and has no rust.
 
Any shop, Firestone, Goodyear, shit, even JiffyLube, will replace a blown headgasket if you bring it to them and ask. The question is, does the shop he brought it to know what they're doing and are they getting the head machined (decked/cleaned/valve job/etc.) before they install everything?

These are the kind of questions you need to be asking, along with getting receipts and PROOF.

The location of the coolant overflow bottle has nothing to do with the engines ability to maintain proper operating temps, that's actually the stock location btw. It seems, though, that because of the short route IC piping he isn't able to mount it in the stock location so he just has is sitting there. If you do buy the car that's definitely something you should put on your SOON TO BE to-do list.

:dsm:
 
Any shop, Firestone, Goodyear, shit, even JiffyLube, will replace a blown headgasket if you bring it to them and ask. The question is, does the shop he brought it to know what they're doing and are they getting the head machined (decked/cleaned/valve job/etc.) before they install everything?

These are the kind of questions you need to be asking, along with getting receipts and PROOF.

The location of the coolant overflow bottle has nothing to do with the engines ability to maintain proper operating temps, that's actually the stock location btw. It seems, though, that because of the short route IC piping he isn't able to mount it in the stock location so he just has is sitting there. If you do buy the car that's definitely something you should put on your SOON TO BE to-do list.

:dsm:

He says he knows the guy pretty well and says he does. And he said he might get the head machined but hes not sure yet. And i will get reciepts before i buy any car with mods like these. And in my last 1g i made a bracket infront of the passanger wheel well and it worked good.

Anyone else have a opinion or suggestions?!
 
well, the 6 bolt engine is a fairly good engine and there are not many crankwalk problems, I drove mine for about 30 miles with coolant gauge pegged at hot and when i got home i replaced the t-stat which stuck closed and it was still fine. I did eventually put a cometic MLS gasket and ARP studs but not because it overheated. If ## looking to buy this car i would say dont worry about the engine, even if it needs a headgasket its an easy fix and a 6 bolt engine is awsome.
 
The likely culprit is the front mount intercooler. It needs to be properly ducted to direct flow through the radiator.
 
for some reason i can't find a thermostat that fits good in my 97 eclipse with a 6bolt swap. i tried one from a 93 and a 95 and a 97. for some reason the maintenece book says that the thermostat goes in the side of the engine but mine goes on the housing that the radiator cap is connected too. this is my first dsm with 6 bolt swap need some advice
 
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