Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[viprez586]

Your running completely stock, with E85, at 19-20psi. That is a horrible idea.
You need the correct supporting mods for that my friend.

The shop should have replaced the spark plugs, but if they didnt get the ngk 6s and gap them to .028"

 

[coppersmith]

the car is not stoc, fp3065, 1250cc inj, 2 pumps one inline, and sst eprom tuned at 20psi
I currently have 7s could this be the problem? also could i gap the 7s to .028?

 

[dented_coffee]

i had a simalar problem with my 1993 with a 6-bolt swap. possibly when the shop did what they did to the engine maybe they forgot to tighted a power wire somewhere. i would look arround your starter and sylenoid. im not to skilled with the e-85 but did u get the conversion kit for it?

 

[coppersmith]

i had a simalar problem with my 1993 with a 6-bolt swap. possibly when the shop did what they did to the engine maybe they forgot to tighted a power wire somewhere. i would look arround your starter and sylenoid. im not to skilled with the e-85 but did u get the conversion kit for it?

i got everything that was required for e85 thats not the problem though

so the chec engine light came on again, ecu clicing away then the car cut off and wont start then it started up a few minutes later...what could this be?

 

[bastarddsm]

Your caps are bad in your ecu. Fix it before it kills an expensive ecu.

 

[dented_coffee]

check engine light is good u want that if there is a problem its now able to read you back codes. here is a video on how to get codes from OBD1 with out an expensive and hard to find scanner. my uncle tryed teaching me this and i couldnt remember how. i can give you a complete list of all the codes that chrysler OBD1 can throw for the 1g eclipse. YouTube - Auto Repair: Chrysler OBD-1 Trouble Code Tutorial

 

[coppersmith]

Your caps are bad in your ecu. Fix it before it kills an expensive ecu.

how do i fix it? do i just give the ECU bac to the tuner and tell him what happened?

 

[kimcheefists]

If I had to guess as to what threw the CEL, it'd be a misfire. You could go to an auto parts store and have it scanned with a scan tool.

 

[viprez586]

First of all fill out your mods in your profile, that will help everyone - help you.

Keep the 7s, gap at .028"

Look at ecmtuning website. They explain the bad caps. You can send it in to get fixed, or if you know someone who is really good at micro-chip soldering, they can do it too.

 

[coppersmith]

First of all fill out your mods in your profile, that will help everyone - help you.

Keep the 7s, gap at .028"

Look at ecmtuning website. They explain the bad caps. You can send it in to get fixed, or if you know someone who is really good at micro-chip soldering, they can do it too.

thancs there are a few things that looc out of place after seeing the ecmtuning website

 

[92gsxswap]

i just bought a 92 eclipse gsx and it starts and idles but when it warms up it shuts off could i need a new thermostat water pump? any suggestions

 

[knochgoon24]

Do you have a logger? The clicking would be coming from a relay, like the MPI relay.

A logger might give you a hit as to what's acting up.

 

[dsmspickdad]

Have you performed a boost leak test? It is possible that there's a leak somewhere, that would explain the lack of boost and cut. Also a leaking intake gasket. I always do boost leak test and about 90 percent of time can locate the problem.

 

[coppersmith]

Have you performed a boost leak test? It is possible that there's a leak somewhere, that would explain the lack of boost and cut. Also a leaking intake gasket. I always do boost leak test and about 90 percent of time can locate the problem.

are u responding to me or the threadjacker?

Have you performed a boost leak test? It is possible that there's a leak somewhere, that would explain the lack of boost and cut. Also a leaking intake gasket. I always do boost leak test and about 90 percent of time can locate the problem.

so i head up to ECMtuning today (great Service by the way)which is local to me and had my ECU's leaking caps repaired which fixed my computers clicking problem but I still cant boost more than 8-10 psi sometimes 15 psi or so without breaking up, one thing I can hear is alot of air whooshing on the driver side and I assume I can hear this because I dont hear the wastegate anymore....this is really a pain in the ass can anyone give me an idea what this could be?

CAR IS FIXED FINALLY turned out to be the coil pack! thanks for everyone's help peace

 

[agedog2gT]

I had a similar problem. i ended up going with a new radiator cap and all was well again. good luck!

 

[4g63eagle]

so my 1g is now still overheating with both fans on full time but at the same time while it says its overheating my top rad hose from the thermo housing to the rad is ice ice cold i just cant win so i ask anyone who may have some input on this would be great first the fans just wouldnt come on now even with them on im still overheating i feel like my car is just

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

Wait you are saying that you are showing no signs of over hearing though? Such as boiling sounds? Or anything?? But your gauge is showing that you are over heating?

If that is the case than I would say you just need to replace your temperature sending unit, the one that sends to the gauge

 

[jimmythesaint]

+1 on the temp sending unit.

But just to be sure your radiator isnt clogged up, let the car warm up with the cap off and make sure coolant is flowing properly.

With both fans running non stop, the only way it would overheat is if the coolant system was blocked somewhere.

 

[4g63eagle]

Wait you are saying that you are showing no signs of over hearing though? Such as boiling sounds? Or anything?? But your gauge is showing that you are over heating?

If that is the case than I would say you just need to replace your temperature sending unit, the one that sends to the gauge

nope no boiling or bubbling in res. bottle top hose is like ice didnt hear any valve pinging from overheating or anything and like i said the cooling fans are running full time i didnt understand at all how the hose felt colder then my pepsi but my gauge was entering the hot zone

+1 on the temp sending unit.

But just to be sure your radiator isnt clogged up, let the car warm up with the cap off and make sure coolant is flowing properly.

With both fans running non stop, the only way it would overheat is if the coolant system was blocked somewhere.

with the cap off what would i want to look for anti-freeze spraying everywhere once it gets warm or waiting till it gets warm or so it says on the gauge and manually checking the temp of the coolant in the housing?

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

With the cap off you would look for Air bubbles passing through. If so you would just burp the system it's really easy squeeze the upper coolant hose from the radiator and it will start to get bubbles out.

It just sounds to me you need to replace the temperature gauges sending unit. It's like 12 bucks at autozone

 

[4g63eagle]

With the cap off you would look for Air bubbles passing through. If so you would just burp the system it's really easy squeeze the upper coolant hose from the radiator and it will start to get bubbles out.

It just sounds to me you need to replace the temperature gauges sending unit. It's like 12 bucks at autozone

as soon as the parts store open ill be there thanks very much the both of you for your quick and very helpful response i really hope its that simple
i love this website

its the sensor here in the picture from napa.com

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

Well as long as what you are saying is true that the hoses are not getting warm or hot i'm about 99.99 percent sure your problem is there

 

[Oldsid]

Wait you are saying that you are showing no signs of over hearing though? Such as boiling sounds? Or anything?? But your gauge is showing that you are over heating?

If that is the case than I would say you just need to replace your temperature sending unit, the one that sends to the gauge

If it just the sending unit or the guage, the top radiator hose should not be "ice cold" as long as the rest of the cooling system is working normally. Are you waiting long enough for the car to warm up and check if it is really overheating? Let it idle long enough then check for any bubling especially at cylinder head. When the top radiator hose is cold, there is probably no flow of coolant. That can be due to a stuck closed thermostat, a defective water pump, a broken water pump belt..etc. Check for this most obvious one and you will find the true cause of the problem.

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

OldSid is right. Ok so if right when you turn the car on the gauge goes to hot immediately than it's your sending unit, but if you are driving around and and the gauge goes hot it could still be a bad sending unit. What I am saying is that if you are not flowing coolant like he said than you would over heat but if the stock gauge is just going to hot immediately right when you turn the car on the gauge sending unit is bad. It's also a single prong sending unit not the double k.

 

[4g63eagle]

Well as long as what you are saying is true that the hoses are not getting warm or hot i'm about 99.99 percent sure your problem is there

yea my top hose was cold cold not even the slightest bit warm it was very odd thank you again for your help im gonna hopefully find the sending unit in stock but with my luck ill be waiting for ups but if they have i will post my results as soon as i can thank you both again for your help

If it just the sending unit or the guage, the top radiator hose should not be "ice cold" as long as the rest of the cooling system is working normally. Are you waiting long enough for the car to warm up and check if it is really overheating? Let it idle long enough then check for any bubling especially at cylinder head. When the top radiator hose is cold, there is probably no flow of coolant. That can be due to a stuck closed thermostat, a defective water pump, a broken water pump belt..etc. Check for this most obvious one and you will find the true cause of the problem.

well to be honest with you i wont let the car run past the point of the temp gauge saying its hot under the assumption it was working correct because it was moving and functional i feel to much to risk if it is getting to hot its already 3000 bucks sitting on brand new rubber i never even got it out of my driveway yet just out of the garage to my driveway and back in for a wash working out kinks i had a srt-4 that i blew up in a race thinking "nah the cars not to hot the gauge just isnt working and then i launched and it was all over so i really dont wanna do that again i get frustrated even thinkin of that all over again