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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Not trying to sound mean but ## fan is running more then you think otherwise ## car would never cool down You said befor your thowing parts at it think of its something you wont half to replace later. ## stock guage could be wrong too you might just want to replace the sending signal to it even if it says its cold when it is your guage might read its colder then it is just not showing it then when its hot it thinks its too hot. im saying just try to replace it

thanks man for the nice info, however i just have one question i really rarely see my low fan ON , i only see it on rarely like 2 days a week i check my car everyday and only rarely i can see the low fan on??? i only see both fans on when the car is hot and then it will be back again to normal. i have a BLITZ upper radiator hose with a place for a temp gauge, i will buy a temp gauge tomorrow and will tell you . i just need to insert the connector of the gauge to the hose right????/

please comment on the low rad fan ( low speed)
 
2G's dont have a thermo switch. It goes off of the ECU's coolant temp sensor. Once the ecu sees a certain temp it turns on the fan. For only the fan circuit to be screwed in the ECU is highly unlikely. Especially a 2G ecu, it just works unless it was molested in some way. Rigging the fan setup is not going to hurt anything, I run my fans at full speed all the time, of course I'm doing it through link, but you can do it the hardware way. This will rule out the fan issue. But for the most part, once you are moving 65-80 mph, the fans dont do much unless you have a big FMIC, but if you not running one, The on coming air is moving faster than those fans can pull.
 
There are 4 wires goimg to each fan 2 for gound, black and blue with a green stipe. The other 2 are for the power supplie. 1 for low and 1 for high. White with a black stipe is for low, and white with a blue stripe is for high. Take a test light and see if power is getting to the motor when the low should be on. If it is then your motor is not working properly. If it is not, check your low speed relay for proper operation. Swap a known good relay in its place. If that still doesnt find the problem let me know and we can get into more on signal checks and so forth.
 
Guys thank you very much for all the comments i really apprecaite it . and for the people who said i cant afford 5 USD for wires, sorry to tell you that but you are wrong i have spent on this car twice its price. if i dont like it i would have put it in the scrap.

as for the overheating i only overheat while on idle , i changed the relay of the low rad fan and as well as the high rad fan but still the same , the low fan does kick in but very rarely i dont know why????

i bought yesterday an after market temp gauge i just need time to install it hopefully tonight, i want to make sure that i am overheating.

one more thing yesterday i got stuck in the traffic and my car started to overheat and back again to normal, so i unplugged the CTS and my fans were on all the time and there was no overheating at all. but there was a cel , does this cel make my car run rich or slow ?? if no then i will just keep this damn CTS unplugged all the time.

and for the over riding of the fans i really dont like to mess up my car with wires convincing myself that i solved the problem while iam not.
 
I was implying if you were on a really tight budget. Never said you were broke. I've spent enough to buy my car a few times over. Everthing in my car is worth more than the car itself. Sad truth of it.

Coolant temp does go into adjusting fueling. I think with it unplugged the ECU reverts to a 366*F value for coolant temp. (even though thats not happening, the car will use that value just becuase it doesnt have a signal.) If you are complaining about how hot wiring the fans to stay on is a hack job, unplugging the CTS isnt?

Normal operation = Fans stay off until 205*
205*F = Main fan turns on. (passenger side)
220*F (i think) = AC fan turns on. (driver side)
The AC fan only turns on when A- it gets hot enough or B- AC is on.

Normal operating temps should stay between 195* and 205*

Another way of having the fans stay on, (even cheaper, and easier and can be undone)
Unplug the AC compressor.
Turn on AC in the cabin.
It wont blow cold, but will make the ecu turn on the fans.

And dont take any of my advice as if Im poking fun at you, It's just I deal with this all day and this is usually how I get my point across. Plus the internet doesnt really do sarcasm well.

If you have acess to a logger, friends or someone local. Log the temps, if the fan turns on at 205 like it should, and the AC one turns on later like it should, thats normal. But if your temps are up at 220 by the time the main one comes on, you have an issue.

Also consider that the temp sensor is a Thermo resistor, that the ecu uses to guess temp. If there is resistance in the wiring to the ECU then you'd have a false reading. Another thing I stress the most, just because something is new, doesn't mean it works.
 
Also consider that the temp sensor is a Thermo resistor, that the ecu uses to guess temp. If there is resistance in the wiring to the ECU then you'd have a false reading. Another thing I stress the most, just because something is new, doesn't mean it works.


thanks man , but how do i check the resistance in the wiring , today i saw the clip of the CTS and it looks fine ?? what exactly do you need me to check please.
 
thanks man , but how do i check the resistance in the wiring , today i saw the clip of the CTS and it looks fine ?? what exactly do you need me to check please.

Is your water pump functioning properly? I remember when mine was going out and slowly leaking, my cars temp would jump up a bit and the fans would turn out, temp would recede back to normal and the fans would turn off. Either way, that would be something to look at. Our cars run hot in comparison to any car no matter what though. I would suggest throwing some water wetter in your radiator and wiring the fans to be on. I hate having a CEL as well. Good luck with finding that bug man, I'm one of those guys who threw a lot of parts at my car and waste money and it turned out my ECU was damaged. Steve fixed it and I'm rolling like a big shot now :hellyeah:
 
Is your water pump functioning properly? I remember when mine was going out and slowly leaking, my cars temp would jump up a bit and the fans would turn out, temp would recede back to normal and the fans would turn off. Either way, that would be something to look at. Our cars run hot in comparison to any car no matter what though. I would suggest throwing some water wetter in your radiator and wiring the fans to be on. I hate having a CEL as well. Good luck with finding that bug man, I'm one of those guys who threw a lot of parts at my car and waste money and it turned out my ECU was damaged. Steve fixed it and I'm rolling like a big shot now :hellyeah:

water pump is new man , not even 10000K on it i changed it with the timing belt. i have straight water in the radiator and i just put yesterday a product called ABRO to help seal head cracks and head gaskets if any. JUST TO MAKE SURE. it does not clog anything and i think its helping.

i sent STEVE a PM but he never anserwed me back , i hope he will and if he can help me with this issue cause i tried almost everyhting , i will take some pictures tonight of my setup maybe it will help you more guys. i will take some pics of the CTS and the rest of the cooling system.
 
water pump is new man , not even 10000K on it i changed it with the timing belt. i have straight water in the radiator and i just put yesterday a product called ABRO to help seal head cracks and head gaskets if any. JUST TO MAKE SURE. it does not clog anything and i think its helping.

i sent STEVE a PM but he never anserwed me back , i hope he will and if he can help me with this issue cause i tried almost everyhting , i will take some pictures tonight of my setup maybe it will help you more guys. i will take some pics of the CTS and the rest of the cooling system.

ABRO? How much did it cost? Have you heard of Blue Devil?? Can be bought at NAPA auto parts for $60. EXPENSIVE but I did a ton of searching and it actually works. I used it myself. But yes, Pix and maybe even a video would help a ton.
 
ABRO? How much did it cost? Have you heard of Blue Devil?? Can be bought at NAPA auto parts for $60. EXPENSIVE but I did a ton of searching and it actually works. I used it myself. But yes, Pix and maybe even a video would help a ton.

ABro heavy duty radiator and head gasket and block permenant seal it cost me 10 USD. its made in USA and they have been in the business since 75 years so i trust them. i put it on just incase i have a bad gasket so i will rule out.
 
hi guys, i have an update i just installed the after market gauge i just finished actually :)

it took me good 2 hours to finsih the job and it went well , i mounted it nicely and now its reading as follows:

when my stock gauge reads half its reading 99- almost hundred Celsius ( no fans on at all)

when my stock guage is overheating and above half the after market gauge is reading 101 C and once it reaches 102 the fan kicks in


after the fan are kicked on the after market gauge will still read 100 C not less than that


so what do you say guys here ?? is my damn stock gauge faulty ????? or what did i just disturb you all about my problem and its from the begining a god damn faulty gauge

what do you say //:hmm:
 
I feel bad that I didn't see this thread earlier. You really should have checked the stock gauge first. Doing a resistance check of the gauge circuit would show if you had unwanted resistance giving you gauge a bad reading. Then if the wire checks out good you could hook up a potentiometer to check gauge function. I'm sure somewhere on this board someone/thread will show what resistance is cold/halfway/3/4/full hot.

Reading through the thread much grief could have been avoided with some well thought out diagnostics. Good news is the sending units shouldn't have to be replaced anytime soon, and you learned more about your car. Bad news is your out some time/money.

I would look into adding some coolant to avoid corrosion of your water passages. Straight water is only for race engines that will be rebuilt/torn into on a regular basis.
 
Damn Chris haven't seen you in a post in a looong time. ^^^

Did come out to be a problem with the wiring.. Its good you found the problem.. Take it easy next time and ignore the stuff you dont want to hear..
 
That is hot for normal, but what are your ambient temps in Dubai? As long as it doesn't get above 220 Fahrenheit I'd say that's okayish...... what are your cruising temps? If your cruising temps are are around 190-200ish Fahrenheit your engine/cooling system should be adequate. I didn't read closely about how the 2g controls fan speeds. You say you don't hear the low speed setting very often. Is your car all stock? Is the stock heat shields on the 02 housing and manifold. If you don't have that it will be very hard for your car to keep underhood temperatures down causing the fans to run on high. In Michigan during the summers my car is usually running high fan, but with low ambient temperatures during winter the low speed is enough to keep my car cool at ideal. I wouldn't expect a car in Dubai to use low fans much.
 
I had the same problems with my fans not kicking on.

Just said screw it and wired it to a switch. I prefer it that way anyway.
Before I could just turn on the A/C and both fans would run.

When your driving above 35mph there is enough airflow to turn the fans off anyway.

I've done a couple of things to keep my coolant temps in the low 200 range. Read my Tech-articles.
 
thx guys again, just one last question the gauge meter that i got is called SWOOSH i got it for 26 USD and it reads from 40 - 120 C , how accurate you think these gauges are and is there an error margin usually in the aftermarket gauges ??? like 2% or so plus or minus?? becaue its reading all the times 100-104 C not less even when the fans kicks in.
 
Never heard of the company, but that doesn't mean they aren't accurate. The help you get is only as good as the information you can give us. You still haven't answered my question about what the ambient temperatures are, or if you have your heat shields still on. If the ambient temperature is hot and you don't have heat shields you are going to get nasty heat soak and your fans are going to have a hell of a time keeping the car cool so those temperatures could/can be accurate.
 
the tempreture here in dubai is very hot around 40 in the morning and 37 in the evening with 70% humidity so its really bad but its getting better now slowly slowly

as for the heat shield its still on, iam still using my stock manifold and the stock heat shield. so you think 104 C is ok ??? for this weather

thx
 
First of all, yes i did search, and please don't give me the "use your search button" crap or answer on a topic you know nothing about....just facts please.


OK! so i was driving to work and noticed once i got off the highway, that my temp jumped up once i stopped. So i freaked for a second and then calmed down and drove her home, wishing she would get me there, (which she did thank god!). But i noticed that when im stopped for a while that the temp would rise and fall once i get going at a good rate of speed. So i come to two conclusions, bad thermostat or bad water pump, but i am leaning more towards the thermo because it will cool down once you give her more gas and get the pump moving, but i could be wrong. Help please! i need to get her fixed before i have to work on Saturday and dont want to buy anything i dont need to.
 
Check your wiring for your ect, I grounded my ect to the chassis and to the ecu wire(sensor ground).instantly the car's fan would kick on at 205. Feel your upper rad hose and your lower rad hose for different temps>Good indication of rad problems!
 
Bro im no wise man, and no i dont have a Turbo 4G63T...but what i do have is a few years as a Mechanic under my belt, and what it sounds like too me is the coolant tamp sensor for the cluster, there have been other cats tell you the same thing. Plus, have u checked the fan switch relay, if a relay is going bad or faulty, it will do the same thing.
What it is, is an electrical issue, and you just have not pinpointed it as of yet. Go back too basics, check to make sure your connector is not corroded, ensure you are getting the proper signal to the fans, if the connector is in good shape, look for a lose or chafed wire, if thats good, ohm your fans out and make sure that the correct voltage is getting to the fans.....im sure you can get this...btw a coolant temp sensor for the cluster is cheep....even for an aftermarket one from like.....advance auto...you'll get it just calm down and chill bro, and get back with us.
 
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