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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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Didnt see this problem anywhere when i searched.

Here is the deal. Basically, my coolant over-fill bottle fills up pretty fast. And when it does, my car starts to overheat. The heat index will fluctuate dramatically. It goes up when im idle or in neutral. But cools down when im driving. But once i empty my over-fill a little, my car will stay under the "half-way-mark" on the temp. gauge. It seems my overfill gets filled pretty quick and im always putting more coolant in. It just all leaks out the bottom. So what could this be? I have a new thermostat. Could it be the water pump? Both of my radiator fans work properly and there arnt any coolant leaks.

Shane
 
wouldn't hurt to flush the system and replace it with new coolant. the temp could be higher when you idle because your not moving and less air is flowing onto the radiator whereas when you are driving fresh cool air is coming in and could cause the temp to remain normal. i'd flush the system and see where your at
 
i over heat alot. It goes into the red. It goes up, then down REALLY fast. Goes up a little more, down REALLY fast again.. Up even more and so on and so forth.

Shane
 
Im fixing the leak now, but do you think there could have been any damage done to the head or block since it got that hot...?

-Kevin-

I think the head will be fine as long as you weren't in the RED part of the gauge for a long period of time. The block is fine. Just fix the leak and refill the Radiator with 50/50 and make sure to burp all the air out of the system.

To burp it you can just leave the Radiator cap off and start the car. Let the car get up to Normal operating temp. You can tap on the radiator to help get the air bubbles out too.
Once the car is at normal operating temp then put the rad Cap on tight.
 
I have this same problem when I try and take longer drives for 30+min. I have fixed all the leaks I could find, replaced the thermostat and cap, got the punishment racing aluminum radiator and slimline fans (wired to a toggle switch and always on) and still no luck. The car overheats and coolant comes out the overflow bottle.
The only thing I can think of is a waterpump thats not flowing at peak performance.
 
being low on coolant can make a lot of things happen. but i dont see how it being 3/4 full would make your gauge jump to dangerously high on the gauge. mine usualy fluctuates from norm to almost 3/4 on the gauge when low.
 
He said He had a small leak....anytime you have a leak your cooling system LOSES pressure...when you LOSE pressure your BOILING POINT is Lowered. Making it easier to boil over even if you have 3/4 coolant

Your cooling system has to hold Pressure or else it will get HOT no matte rhow much coolant you have
 
About how much will it cost to have a new waterpump installed? I know where i can get a new one for cheap. Just want to know how much its gonna run me to have it installed..

Shane
 
test your cap spring may be weak or seal may be bad eliminate the easy/cheap parts first
 
my car is overheating also ,I have tried all the things people have told me ,had head checked and it is fine , only thing I can figure is the water pump I have put on it ,can,t be pushing enough water .the machine shop told me that I may have torqued the head down wrong , this problem only started since the arp stud install ,so do you have the studs ,because you might want to check the torque on them .good luck
 
my car is overheating also ,I have tried all the things people have told me ,had head checked and it is fine , only thing I can figure is the water pump I have put on it ,can,t be pushing enough water .the machine shop told me that I may have torqued the head down wrong , this problem only started since the arp stud install ,so do you have the studs ,because you might want to check the torque on them .good luck

I got a freshly built motor. Cometic HG, ARP head studs, Mishimoto rad, slim fan with switch, AISIN water pump and I also overheat.

I had a shop build the motor. Is it possible they didn't torque the head down correctly? I have low compression as well.

When you re-torque the head. Do you do it hot or cold?

I have a cometic HG and ARP studs. What torque should I tighten them to? Stock or more?

Thanks,


Tom
 
...like a bad fill cap....good excuse to lose coolant.

Just came back from a 400mi run on the freeway and about 5 miles (and less than a mile from a gas station exit), my temp gauge suddenly shot up into the red. Scared the crap outta me. Immediately killed the motor and coasted to the side. Sat for a good few, then restart and crept to that exit to the gas station.

I got a new T-stat (where I drilled a .050 hole in the flange to completely burp the system of air) a few months ago.


Most of the coolant had boiled out of the block into the overflow bottle.
I took a screwdriver and managed to spin off the fill cap-which there was no pressure underneath the cap. Added coolant and got the system back under control to get my ride home.

My cap wasn't holding pressure, thus I boiled over real quick. Time for a trip to NAPA for a new cap.

But before I do this, that radiator is coming out and take it to a shop to boil it out to see if it's full of rust and gunk since the boiled out water was rather rusty looking.

-DSM
 
I think the spring and seals in the cap are bad. Coolant can escape to freely. The over-fill gets filled up fast and once its over-filled the used, boiled coolant, backwashes back into the radiator and then the car slowly over heats. Thats just what i think/hope ROFL

Shane
 
I had the same thing, it started as the constant heating up, then back to center. I replaced the Radiator and thermostat, but it continued to do the same. After about two weeks, always putting in coolant. Then I started pushing coolant out of the tail pipe.

At 200K miles I put in a used motor. Maybe next time I'll rebuild, but this is my dd.
 
dude I had exactly the same problem months ago, it was the water pump. I spent money on the radiator cap and the thermastat, that didn't fix the problem. Finally spent about $80 bucks on the remanufacture waterpump and no more overheating problem. My .02 cents. Good luck!
 
from my experience with coolant problems.. which sparked more then just what needed to be fixed.... sounds like your water pump.. . .shouldnt be to much as faras price.. and isnt to hard to install if you a lil bit mechanically inclined. . just my thoughts!! goodluck!!!:dsm::thumb:
 
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