Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[mtnmike]

I have a 91' Talon Tsi AWD and have about exactly the same problem when coming home from work 2 days ago. I put on a big 16G turbo, 2G TB and UICP. opened up the air filter with an K&N, about 2 weeks ago. No problem until NOW!!!!!!! Is anyone else that can help me, or have any suggestions. I looked at the Haynes manual and it appears to me to be a Thermo Switch problem? I had a new H2o Pump and thermostat, timing belt kit, all the accesssory belts, plugs, wires, before the Mods. Any help or info would be appreciated

 

[Artago]

There are two temp senders, one for the gauge (one wire) and one for the ECU (2 wires). Replace the one for the ECU.

Yeah I know that there are 2. The two wire one feeds the ECU. My pocketlogger shows temps just fine and it gets those temp readings from the ECU which gets them from the 2 wire sensor. Could the sensor be malfunctioning and still give me proper readings via pocketlogger?

PS: Have you checked the water pump belt to make sure it's tight???

 

[yokotabrat]

Are your aftermarket fans ducted? If not, maybe swap to the stock ducted fans if they still fit just to try them?

When you had the radiator out did you notice any buildup of debris between the condenser and radiator. When I pulled the AC on my old Talon, I had a lot of debris, almost like lint from a dryer between the radiator and condenser?

 

[DGajre777]

Are your aftermarket fans ducted? If not, maybe swap to the stock ducted fans if they still fit just to try them?

When you had the radiator out did you notice any buildup of debris between the condenser and radiator. When I pulled the AC on my old Talon, I had a lot of debris, almost like lint from a dryer between the radiator and condenser?

By ducted, you mean shrouded? No, the aftermarket fans are not shrouded but they are mounted flush against the radiator. I can't swap the stock fans because it won't fit with a 180 deg. pipe for the FMIC.

As for debris, there were leaves between the radiator and the condenser which I took out and there was a little rust on the bottom passenger side of the condensor.

Yeah I know that there are 2. The two wire one feeds the ECU. My pocketlogger shows temps just fine and it gets those temp readings from the ECU which gets them from the 2 wire sensor. Could the sensor be malfunctioning and still give me proper readings via pocketlogger?

PS: Have you checked the water pump belt to make sure it's tight???

If you have already tested the relays and checked the ECU, the only 2 things that could be bad is the coolant sender and the wiring. Yes, it could be going bad. Test the coolant sender or replace it and see if it fixes anything. They aren't too expensive, I paid $26 for an OEM one.

I figured it out. The A/C compressor starts clicking and then the car overheats so I guess it is on its last leg.

 

[matt98eclipse]

What are your current temp after fixing this cus im kinda haveing same issue!

 

[freeman 188]

today my car was overheating to 241c .seems as soon as I put the boost to it ,bought a new water pump but it looked a little different than the oem one .as it has a round plate onto the blades ,is it possible this could be a reverse pushing pump also the car started to push the water back in to the bottle when I shut it down .new head gasket ,new water pump ,new thermostate ,new rad cap ,new radiator ,engine freshly rebuilt .

 

[r1991_4g63t]

you have an air pocket from everything youve replaced, let the car run for a bit with the radiator cap off while keeping it full, sometimes takes only a couple minutes, sometimes longer, just let it idle.

 

[freeman 188]

oh forgot to mention I have bled out the system for quite some time as to where there was no air left in the system ,it been like this now for a couple of weeks ,when I get a chance to drive it

 

[DSM1G90]

Trick I do to ensure total system bleed (if the T-stat doesn't have a wiggle valve on it..) is to drill a small .050 hole in the flat area of the flange of the T-stat. This hole will let the system bleed the air out all the time and definitely get rid of air pockets - esp when the T-stat is position in a vertical (side) position where you would have the hole at the '12:00' o'clock position.

A lot of domestic cars had their T-stats positioned like this and many would get air lock and boil overs until the T-stat opened up due to the heat within that air pocket.

-DSM

 

[r1991_4g63t]

oh forgot to mention I have bled out the system for quite some time as to where there was no air left in the system ,it been like this now for a couple of weeks ,when I get a chance to drive it

the problem you are describing is an air pocket, happens anytime you change what you did, like he said check your thermostat and see if it has that bypass valve(little brass piece that wiggles around) usually you can squeeze your upper hose a couple times quickly and you can hear it rattle.

 

[freeman 188]

it does have a fail safe thermostat with the little vent in it ,I wonder if the head is blowing compression in the coolant system when it warms up ,that tells me the head is warped ,but I had it checked and it was find ,this is getting very anoying also has almost 400k on the rebuid

 

[deputy865]

I would search on this but I am on my phone and there isn't a computer anywhere around.. Anyway..

My car is overheating. It did this before. We put new coolant in and replaced the thermostat. Problem solved.. Now when im idling it overheats. Then it will go down a little bit, then back up. It goes in the red and above sometimes.. Well most of the time. My coolant overflow thing is full to the brim. Should I drain ALL of it out?

What could my problem be. Speedy responce needed.

Thanks,

Shane

 

[STI2TALON]

Well first, try taking the radiator cap off when cold and running the car until the pressure builds up enough that the coolant starts coming out. Do this a couple times to burp air out of the system.

 

[deputy865]

The car was running fine for a full week. It just started doing this today. Seems like everytime I drive kinda far it is doing this. Getting frustrating.

My dad says water pump???

Shane

 

[218dsm]

could be a couple things..first burp your system like the fellow above me said..make sure all air pockets are out..empty that overflow bottle and fill it to proper fluid level..run the car for a little bit and check to see if both hoses are about equally hot..make sure your fans are kickin on also..if you have acces to a temp gun when your car is at operatingtemp check your radiator temps and make sure your rad is not clogged..if not check your sensors and make sure your thermostat is opening and closing..

 

[STI2TALON]

Just for the heck of it check your water pump belt and make sure its tight enough. Also I had this problem when my spark plugs were slightly fouled. It would run fine and then 10 miles down the road overheat like crazy and boil out my coolant. After I changed the plugs it went away

 

[deputy865]

I have new plugs, boots and wiring.

Last night i was driving it.. The gauge would be at 100% heat. But then just drop in an instant to 50% or 75%.. Then just go back up to 100%.. It was odd. Also, when ever i let off the gas or idle.. My oil goes from the center, down to low and my oil light comes on..

My oil is low, but it only does this when i idle.

please help me..

Shane

 

[Artago]

Good work on finding the problem.

Tom

 

[94eclipse985]

Hey bud i have a 94 GSX and am having the same probelm and was wondering where you got the part and what the name of it is i know there is a couple of different sensor types so if you still check this thred can you please let me know what name the sensor goes by.

Thanks
DSM4LIFE

 

[turbodsm18]

So tonight, Im sitting in a parking lot with my car running and I happened to look down to notice my temp gauge all the way up....I immediately shut the car off, I have no idea how long it had been like that...

So fast foward, I scavenge up some water and pour it in the water neck and only about a half gallon goes in and then its full. So I rush the car down the road about 3 miles to my house, get underneath it and see that one of the coolant lines going to the oil filter housing is split and leaking but only when the car is on.

So my question is, since the system was still about 3/4 full with antifreeze/water do you think the temp would have been high, or was the temp high because the sensor was dry and there was a leak (no seal) in the system.

NOTE: when I filled the water neck up all the way and drove it down the road, the temp stayed exactly where it was supposed to be.

All help is appreciated.

-Kevin-

 

[1gDSM4g63]

I don't think that a dry temp sensor has anything to do with the high temp and having only 3/4 of water/antifreeze probably wouldn't drive the temp all the way up either.

 

[turbodsm18]

I don't think that a dry temp sensor has anything to do with the high temp and having only 3/4 of water/antifreeze probably wouldn't drive the temp all the way up either.

So would you say the high temp was caused by air in the system.

The temp was 100% normal when I drove it home with the system full.

The only thing I can think of is the stock temp gauge shot up immediately when the system got air in it...The car still ran and idle like normal.

 

[heckles]

not so much air in but air out. As the coolant gets hot the pressure rises to about 15-17 lbs. which is when your fans come on to regulate the temp/pressure. That leak didnt allow the proper pressure to build. I had recent overheating issues due to a bad radiator. Since Im in ohio, and ac isnt that important to me. I removed the compressor, the ac fan relay and wire the ac fan to come on with the radiator fan. Major temp drop

 

[Jeff99GS]

So tonight, Im sitting in a parking lot with my car running and I happened to look down to notice my temp gauge all the way up....I immediately shut the car off, I have no idea how long it had been like that...

So fast foward, I scavenge up some water and pour it in the water neck and only about a half gallon goes in and then its full. So I rush the car down the road about 3 miles to my house, get underneath it and see that one of the coolant lines going to the oil filter housing is split and leaking but only when the car is on.

So my question is, since the system was still about 3/4 full with antifreeze/water do you think the temp would have been high, or was the temp high because the sensor was dry and there was a leak (no seal) in the system.

NOTE: when I filled the water neck up all the way and drove it down the road, the temp stayed exactly where it was supposed to be.

All help is appreciated.

-Kevin-

Yes that small leak will cause the temp to go that high. The cooling system has to be pressurized to work properly. Water at atmospheric pressure boils at 212 degrees...but water Under pressure will boil at a higher temp. So when you have even a tiny leak you are losing Pressure and the water/coolant gets HOTTER and boils over.

Fix the Leak and refill the car with 50/50 coolant/water mix.

 

[turbodsm18]

Yes that small leak will cause the temp to go that high. The cooling system has to be pressurized to work properly. Water at atmospheric pressure boils at 212 degrees...but water Under pressure will boil at a higher temp. So when you have even a tiny leak you are losing Pressure and the water/coolant gets HOTTER and boils over.

Fix the Leak and refill the car with 50/50 coolant/water mix.

Im fixing the leak now, but do you think there could have been any damage done to the head or block since it got that hot...?

-Kevin-