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car not building RPMs like it should

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dylan702110988

15+ Year Contributor
233
1
Sep 15, 2007
Las Vegas, Nevada
I have a 95 Eagle Talon TSI (automatic), i recently installed a brand new evo III 16g, SSAC FMIC kit and a Injen style intake

and now it just seems as if i lost like 100whp :cry:

ive noticed that it seems that im running very rich, im spiting some type of black carbon like luqid out of my exhaust, and my spark plugs are very very black (brand new ngk 7s, installed with turbo, have maybe 20 miles on them), i have done a compression test and all cylinders are good (170-165-170-172)

it struggles to reach 3500rpm, its not sputtering, it just wont go, i can hear the turbo spooling but it just wont go :notgood:

im going to atempt a boost leak test tomarrow

please please help:barf:
 
i forgot to add...

before i did the compression test, i would free rev (in neutral) and the exhaust would start to pop rapidly (like it was redlining but it was at 5k rpm)

then i reinstalled the spark plugs and wires, accidentally put in a old spark plug in cylinder 1 and it stopped, but if i change it back it will pop, i only touched the spark plug in cylinder 1 (closest to the timing belt)

WTF
 
It sounds like a boost leak to me, but if you're not running real high boost the 6's might work out better than the 7's for you. I'm not sure why that problem went away with an old plug in. Did you gap the new plugs before you put them in?
 
yes to .28

ive searched for boost leaks, i found nothing

but im going to redo the test again

thanks for the help, i will be back
:D
 
well i tested last night and i found nothing at all, still running way way rich

im starting to think this is a fuel problem, i had a nice close listen to my injectors and they seem to be ticking, its a constant tick tick tick (its not lifter tick), im not sure if this is normal

again, my plugs are covered in black, black drops coming out exhaust, exhaust has a rich smell, and i cant get past 3500rpm(it should be pulling hard):notgood:
 
I'm not doubting you, but could you please describe your boost leak testing process to make sure you're doing it right.
 
taking off the intake

clamping down the tester on to the turbo

while watching the boost gauge pressurize the system to 20psi

listen for leaks

oh and disable the MBC

i found nothing at all...could this be a fuel or spark related issue
 
please please help, is there any tests i can run?

i have a CEL on now... im going to have my freind bring his scanner over, ill get back to u with the code

:(
 
i put new NGK 6s in earlier today and it did nothing to help the problem at all

acually there already carbon fouled.....

please help
:(
 
You say your injectors are ticking. Are you positive it's not the lifters? How many injectors are ticking? If you think it's an injector, unplug one and see if the ticking goes away.

Did you happen to get the CEL code?

Have you replaced your spark plug wires recently? If not, do you know the last time they were replaced?

i really cant tell ill try to find out...it sounds like its coming from the injectors...i put my ear over it it really doesn't sound like lifter tick

yes i have a CEL i have to bring my freinds scanner over, hes been busy...

spark plug wires where replace less than 200miles ago..but there boshe wires, are they bad for our cars?
 
P0110 - Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 circut

P0105 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/ BARO circut

also it said something about "open loop fuel system"
 
that was the first thing i checked, then i resetted the ECU and it came back on

i also noticed my RPMs would drop to 1k then bounce up to 1500 it did that for a good 5 mins, then it idled at 1100, when it dropped the engine ran like crap

:cry: HELP!
 
Do you have a pal you can borrow a maf from? Try swapping in a known working maf and see what happens.
 
Check to make sure your maf is plugged in all the way.

Yea, the air temp sensor is in teh MAF sensor...It sounds like it's either not clamped on tight, is not plugged in or has gone bad. I forgot to plug mine in once (years ago when i still had one on my car ) and it acted the same way. Is your BOV connected to the air intake from the MAF to the turbo? if that hole is open on the big rubber boot, it will cause this as well.
 
OK well the CEL problem was fixed, the coupler from the intake to the turbo was too big :coy:

but my car is still slow, i try to check for boost leaks and it seems i was doing it wrong...that's probably why i didn't find any

i made the tester from PVC and a valve stem, and JB welded the valve stem so its completely sealed...I'm using a bike pump to pressurize the system and it just doesn't build up pressure..i get like 50 pumps and it doesn't move off 0...i was told that the TB plate was supposed to be open during the test?

:talon:thanks in advance
 
Well, first of all, you should look into getting an air compressor or at least a tank (you can get them for cheap from WalMart and fill them up at your local gas station).

For your boost leak tester, do you have any clamps on the end of it to seal it (the opposite end of the valve stem)?

Also, please describe exactly how and where you were doing your test.
 
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