The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

can somebody identify my turbo

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

95GST2841

15+ Year Contributor
114
1
Feb 11, 2006
Palm Harbor, Florida
is there any ways to tell if its a T25 or not... like right off the bat.


the thing is tiny, but I beat stock SRT4's, mustang GT's and everything else and the car is pretty much stock, I dont understand it. Why is my car doing what it is doing.. I'm almost scared to mod it, it might get slower
 
DSM4me44 said:
Interesting blow off valve set up you have.

Agreed. Sorry to stray off topic, but how does your car not run like crap? You made no mention of a GM MAF setup, and yet, not only are you venting your BOV, but you're sucking unfiltered air in through the BOV dump tube.
 
Yep... that sounds about right. Your car thinks it has more air than it does, so it's giving you more fuel than necessary. Your A/F ratio is probably horrible, which is why you smell gas at WOT.

Again, I know this is off topic, but I would fix that - either look into a GM MAF or find a way to recirculate the BOV you have. At the very least, plug the hole in the BOV dump tube so you stop sucking unfiltered air into your engine.
 
so going to a GM MAF setup would result in more power?


what all is involved into going to a GM MAF set up?
 
95GST2841 said:
so going to a GM MAF setup would result in more power?


what all is involved into going to a GM MAF set up?

GM MAFs have been discussed in these forums quite a bit, so I'm only going to give you a quick run down. You'll need to buy both a GM MAF and a MAF translator (MAF-T). The GM MAF goes inline somewhere between your turbo outlet and your throttle body, past the BOV. It, in combination with the MAF-T (which translates the GM signal into something a Mitsubishi can read), replaces your stock MAF. This has several benefits; for one, it is easier to tune when you get to that point. It is also less restrictive than the stock MAF (which, because you have a 2G, shouldn't be too restrictive anyway). Finally, it allows you to vent your BOV because the GM MAF doesn't meter incoming air until right before the throttle body, as opposed to at the intake.

In either case, even with the GM MAF, venting your BOV will give you slower spool up times. The general consensus is that venting is just a bad idea altogether. Read this for more information:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113858

If you keep your current configuration for long, the richness of the A/F ratio will foul your spark plugs quickly and slather your combustion chambers and exhaust with thick carbon deposits.
 
VelocitàPaola said:
Yep... that sounds about right. Your car thinks it has more air than it does, so it's giving you more fuel than necessary.

Um, wrong. Your car would think it has less air than it actually does (meaning you actually have more air). If indeed that dump tube is open, air is also being sucked through that - going around the MAS and thus not being accounted for. :nono:
 
sp00ln said:
Um, wrong. Your car would think it has less air than it actually does (meaning you actually have more air). If indeed that dump tube is open, air is also being sucked through that - going around the MAS and thus not being accounted for. :nono:

That may be true, while the car is running in closed loop. At WOT, and between shifts, though, more air is being lost than is being sucked in, thus causing the rich mixture.
 
VelocitàPaola said:
If you keep your current configuration for long, the richness of the A/F ratio will foul your spark plugs quickly and slather your combustion chambers and exhaust with thick carbon deposits.


I really dont want to mess with the GM set-up, I do not have any tuning experience and for right now that seems over my head.

I guess I will end up buying a vented bov or something of the sort, but I'm worried about what it will do to my engine in the mean time. My motor has served me very well compresison between 150-155 all around and I dont want to mess this up. Will that ruin how stout my motor is?
 
95GST2841 said:
I really dont want to mess with the GM set-up, I do not have any tuning experience and for right now that seems over my head.

I guess I will end up buying a vented bov or something of the sort, but I'm worried about what it will do to my engine in the mean time. My motor has served me very well compresison between 150-155 all around and I dont want to mess this up. Will that ruin how stout my motor is?

First things first, get an empty film canister and plug that BOV dump tube with it. That should make things a little better for now. Then, look on eBay for a 1G BOV and adapter. The 1G BOV is cheap, and you'll likely be happy with it for a long time, until you start making some more serious power.

Right now, you're running your engine through cycles of richness and leanness. You probably won't run lean enough to damage anything, and as long as your plugs or O2 sensors don't go out on you, being rich is OK for now too. You can always remove any carbon deposits with Seafoam later.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top