Can running rich cause car not to start.

[JMiller]

I have a vented ssqv bov, big fmic, 272 cams(comp) and a T25 so i know its running rich. My qeustion is can that cause the car not to start unless you hold the throttle open some. And yes i am going to get a blow through set soon, or recirculate it.

 

[dsm_Crazed]

Just because its vented doesn't mean that you are going to be rich on start. You'll be rich in between shifts, thats bout it. But if the BOV is closed on start (which, if its working properly it is) then you won't be rich.

Its gonna be rich between shifts because that metered air that the ECU is already accounting for is getting vented out of the system, but its still putting the amount of fuel for that vented air into the combustion chamber. It won't affect your start. There must be another problem. What else is going on with it?

 

[JMiller]

Everything else is fine. I was gonna do a boost leak test tomorrow. But when i tried to start it, it would turn over onnce or twice and that was it. Is it posible that it could be an electrical problem because this is the first time its ever happend on my GST.

 

[dsm_Crazed]

I'm not gonna say its NOT an electrical problem, but with what you are saying, and with what I've had happen to me multiple times, it sounds exactly like a boost leak. The car will start, but you try to put a load on the motor and it just stutters and blows black smoke because the ECU is metering air that isn't making it to the motor, and you are seeing the fuel being dumped.

 

[JMiller]

I just tryed it again and it starting up after about 4 turns(usually only takes 1 or 2). I'm not sure what was wrong with it earlier. Hope its keeps working, Thanks for the help.

 

[xreaction122]

if your running rich and it takes a couple turns to start the car, i would say to check the coolant temperature sensor.

 

[dsm_Crazed]

Thats a good point too, I forgot about that. That may be your problem too. When mine went out it was taking a while to start, and it would stutter until it warmed up a bit. Not to sure about the smoke though....never looked behind me when it happened. Next time you get it started, let it warm up a bit and try it.

 

[JMiller]

What signs shoud i look out for to know wheater or not my temp sensor is going out. Also i do have a random white smoke at high rmps, my coolant has been at the same level for the past year, and if i let my car idle for about 10-15mins the white smoke will just start slowly coming out but once i start driving it goes away.

 

[tkelly27]

Have you checked your plugs? Venting can get them all crappy and make it hard to start. My car is a pita to start because I don't have the fuel pressure solenoid hooked up, check that out.

 

[JMiller]

Ill check the plugs tomorrow but i just recently started venting. I used to use a Type S bov. But the last few times i checked my plugs they were black and when i looked in the manual it said if your plugs looked like mine then your car needs to be tuned so i bought some BPR6ES plugs(store didnt have 7s) to put in and havent checked since, that was around last December. I think my Fromt O2 senor is bad or going bad cause my gas mileage seems to be getting worse and worse.

 

[architechnik]

Short answer: Yes. Too much fuel can cause an engine to "flood" and drown the spark plug until it cannot fire.
Typically black plugs means too much fuel and white plugs means too little.

Your other symptoms, however, would not occur from a recirc fault.

Check your coolant sensor.
Check your wires to the coolant sensor.
Check your coolant mix.

White smoke is a sign of fluids burning other than fuel, which causes black smoke (hydro-carbons). There shouldn't BE as much water in your intake system to cause excessive white smoke. This could be the result of condensation from rest or a blown head gasket or (INCREDIBLY less likely) a throttle body leak (where coolant is cycled through and is pulling into your intake).

In contrast, blueish-white, or "thick" white, or blue smoke is a sign of oil burning, as suggested by the high RPM's diagnosis. To verify the color, grab a piece of white paper (got copier paper?), and check the color. If your turbo is old or your car has a lot of miles, then you could have a seal that's gone bad.

Suggestions:
Check your turbo for in-out "play" or excessive side-to-side. If you move the turbo shaft around, there should be slight movement from side to side, as during normal operation it rides on a film of oil. If the shaft moves in and out, then your turbo is blown and you'll need to look into a replacement.

If neither excessive situations occur, then you've saved yourself $400, but it's likely you're valve seals. They're easy enough to replace, and don't cost much... but you'll have to remove your entire head to do it, and will cost if you decide to have a shop do it.

The Bad News:
This means: taking the time to get to TDC, making sure everything is Just Right, removing your timing belt, removing the head, and using a valve spring compressor (likely NOT at your local auto store; I ordered mine from Harbor Freight), and pulling the little seals off and pushing new ones on. The hard part is all the stuff to get to those little buggers, labeling and getting everything back together.

Worse News:
The other possibility is that you have blown rings. This require bottom-end work and will cost you - in either grueling hours of hard work or dollars spent at the shop getting a rebuilt engine/short block. There are quite a few tutorials/faq's on doing this, but look into everything else first.

 

[JMiller]

Thanks architechnik i think it might be a turbo seal went out(cause I used to run 20psi), i don't have any in and out shaft play and an almost unnoticeable side to side. The next time i have to take the head off I'm going to change the gaskets and do all that other stuff(valve seals, springs retainers, etc.) and I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the bottom end. I only looking for about 275-350hp DD on a fast spooling turbo(figured I'd use an 18g). Thanks for all of the help.

 

[bluetlr2001]

You say that you think your front o2 sensor is going out. Have you had any cel's come on?

 

[JMiller]

Yeah i got a CEL on right know but i dont know what it is because the people at autozone dont know how to use a scanner. They kept telling me it wont connect, but every time the guy i know that worked there scanned it, it worked, but the guy i know doesnt work there anymore.( I think if i recircuit my bov and reset the ecu the CEL will go away) The last time i got it scanned it threw a code for misfire in cylinder 3, it was due to the pluge being gapped to much it was at like .33 so i changed it to .28 and its been fine ever since. Not sure if that has anything to do with my initial problem because it happend like 8 months ago.

 

[xreaction122]

What signs shoud i look out for to know wheater or not my temp sensor is going out.

well firstly, you need to check if the sensor is physically connected in the proper plug behind the thermostat housing. and secondly, check the wiring. see if there are any loose wires.
you could also check the resistance of the sensor.

CTS determines your enrichment of your car upon startup so if your car needs a multiple tries to get it started/has crappy idle, thats my guess.