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can i put any 90 ECU on my 90 Laser rs-t

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Simadowna119

10+ Year Contributor
200
1
Jul 11, 2009
Lincoln, Nebraska
There are different ECU's for FWD and AWD along with each year. Mine is a MD 128625 set for 1990 FWD 5sp Turbo 49 Federal.

If your "MD" number is different, it's prob for California and you can't switch them - it has to be the same "MD" number as the one you took out.

The one posted on "eBone" is the correct one for our 1990 Plys. Just that he posted the wrong transmission.

NOW, the big question is: how reliable is this ECU going to be since being pulled from a so-called 'low mileage' car (and how do we know it's really a "low mileage" car-good adv scam if you aske me...) ? It really doesn't matter the mileage on a vehicle, but what matters is age. For the caps inside can leak after age, not usage. Caps can have internal leakage and look clean from the outside.

I'd stay away from this one .. too shady of a deal.

"Steve" on here is the one to "PM" on your ECU questions, for he does ECU rebuilds and have an excellent rebuild history.

Good luck-DSM
 
There are different ECU's for FWD and AWD along with each year. Mine is a MD 128625 set for 1990 FWD 5sp Turbo 49 Federal.

If your "MD" number is different, it's prob for California and you can't switch them - it has to be the same "MD" number as the one you took out.

The one posted on "eBone" is the correct one for our 1990 Plys. Just that he posted the wrong transmission.

NOW, the big question is: how reliable is this ECU going to be since being pulled from a so-called 'low mileage' car (and how do we know it's really a "low mileage" car-good adv scam if you aske me...) ? It really doesn't matter the mileage on a vehicle, but what matters is age. For the caps inside can leak after age, not usage. Caps can have internal leakage and look clean from the outside.

I'd stay away from this one .. too shady of a deal.

"Steve" on here is the one to "PM" on your ECU questions, for he does ECU rebuilds and have an excellent rebuild history.

Good luck-DSM

the ECU in it now is from december 2001.... you think 8 years old is enough age for my capacitors to be leaking?
 
does this look a little more promising?...
NOPE !! He has a price that does look attractive, BUT a reserve hiding behind it which means more dollars that needs to be spent ... and no feedback: he's definitely a shark and knows nothing about pleasing the customer when posting a reserve on an item. What he's doing there is "protecting" his interest so he won't get on the short end of the stick.

..he's after a deal that works for him and not for you.

I'd walk on by real fast on this one.

Maybe the first site that you posted might be okey for now if pennies are tight for you.

.......................................................................................................
8 years on caps....it's a tough one to swallow for it can or can't be good - no factual answer to give you on this since caps can do what and when they want to...

..I've seen caps last forever and caps begin to leak within a year or two on electronic components outside of ECU's..

As long as it is from a 90 and manual(if your car is a manual) it will work
It might, but the circuitry inside each ECU are definite for that specfic setup from the factory. Sure, you can switch ECU's since it'll do the basic operation as needed, but the car's system isn't up to absolute performance if a different ECU is in place.

Good luck in your search - DSM
 
You should have no problem as long as they are both standard or both automatic!!
Ive heard from numerous amount of people that fwd and awd dont play a role in it!
The only thing is 90 ecu's will only fit 90 ecu's
91-94 can interchange with each other! (IF they both have either standard or automatic)
 
We started seeing the caps leak pretty early on. The VFAQ on changing the caps dates from 98 but I remember people having the problem before the 2G's came out so enough ECU failed early on that the problem became visible and was common enough my 98 that Todd Day published the VFAQ.

I still see some 1G ECUs where the caps haven't leaked but it's a very small percentage. Most have serious leakage or have poorly done replacements that later failed due to the workmanship of the repairs.

There are 4 turbo ECUs from 1990. As often happens with first year cars there are changes than make the later parts incompatable without reworking parts of the wiring and ignition system.

The 4 ECUs are: (There weren't any automatic Turbo cars in 1990)
MD145902 California Manual AWD
MD145903 Federal Manual AWD
MD128623 California Manual FWD
MD128625 Federal Manual FWD

It's preferable to get the exact part for your car but the changes between AWD and FWD are minor and a Federal ECU will work in a California (Maybe not pass CA testing) with out throwing a code but not so a California ECU in a Federal car where you will get a EGR error. There were both EPROM and non-EPROM versions of each of these 4 but finding a good 90 EPROM is difficult now.

There are a few fatal failures but most of the ECU's can be repaired. Cracked or bubbled processor or interface chips and burning through the circuit board are usually only good for some spare parts.
 
whats the difference between a normal ECU and a EPROM ECU? and do you guys know of anywhere i can get a ecu that WILL work for my car for under 150?.....or should i just spend the 240 dollars at autozone for one..... i would like to save money so i can start getting some parts for this thing, plus it isnt tagged registered or insured yet.... i need every dollar i can get
 
whats the difference between a normal ECU and a EPROM ECU?

An EPROM ECU has the interface hardware and EPROM chip (Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) added to allow the software of the ECU to be external to the processor chip and potentially removable. This allows one to modify the software to support changes in the engine setup like bigger injectors, performance tuning to the fuel and timing maps and add additional features.
 
An EPROM ECU has the interface hardware and EPROM chip (Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) added to allow the software of the ECU to be external to the processor chip and potentially removable. This allows one to modify the software to support changes in the engine setup like bigger injectors, performance tuning to the fuel and timing maps and add additional features.

my goal is 275 whp.... but i have alot to learn:hmm: what do you think would be the quickest cheapest way to reach atleast 250 whp? i want to get intercooler piping, a dejon intake pipe with k&n filter, do the BCS mod, MAF honeycomb mod, boost controller, boost gauge and air fuel gauge, aftermarket downpipe(dont know wich brand) and 3inch back exhaust... i mean thats my plan... does that sound like it would get me there and if not what else should i do?

btw thanks for the help
 
Steve describes the eprom by the book!!
and 275 isn't hard to hit!!
you can hit that without even getting the eprom and dsm link!
you get a 3" GM MAF with the Transislator box and get a bigger turbo/ turn the boost up, get bigger injectors, and BAM! im sure you can hit that or atleast get close!

and your plans are pretty good on! That is the way to rise to the top!! with all that im sure youll hit that mark fast!
GOOD LUCK! ;)
 
Steve describes the eprom by the book!!
and 275 isn't hard to hit!!
you can hit that without even getting the eprom and dsm link!
you get a 3" GM MAF with the Transislator box and get a bigger turbo/ turn the boost up, get bigger injectors, and BAM! im sure you can hit that or atleast get close!

and your plans are pretty good on! That is the way to rise to the top!! with all that im sure youll hit that mark fast!
GOOD LUCK! ;)

thanks man... im kinda just trying to keep the 14b..... im probably just gonna do everything i said but only crank the boost up to 12/13 psi and wherever that gets me is where ill be.... i have to many appearance and suspension mods i wanna do.... and im finding out thats where im gonna be spending all my money.... spring/struts/ strut bars/rims/spoiler/ shits expensive man
 
The MD number on the front is key. There are tons of websites to tell you what the number stands for and if there interchangeable!
 
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