cams with stock rods

[avaien]

Ok I called a reputable shop asking about cams and a limited slip dif for my 50trim gst. They told me that to take advantage of the cams I would need to rev to 8k and I couldnt just do cams. They said I would need head studs, yeah I know, but connecting rods? Maybe Im getting confused with evo tuning but I thought these motors could take it. What all would I need to run cams with a 50trim at max on pump.

 

[Grn95GST]

I just put some FP2 cams on my car. There is a noticable difference from say ~5800rpm to redline. The car just keeps pulling unlike before where it would die off a bit at the upper rpm's. My mods are in my profile. I have yet to install the ARP's and MLS headgasket. I dyno'd at 313hp to the wheels at 20psi yesterday if that helps any. I was not able to get the boost to go any higher for some reason. As far as my motor, it a stock 7 bolt. Unported intake and exhaust manifolds.

Eddy

 

[Tom N]

You dont need any of that stuff for cams as long as they arent bigger than 272`s or FP2`s.

 

[destrux]

He must think you are looking for race only cams or something, or he's a honda guy and used to dealing with motors that redline at 8-10k... 272's, or 264's, or any street/strip cam will work well with the stock pistons/rods/headbolts. I would definetly do performance springs along with the cams, and titamium retainers/keepers if you can afford to.

 

[Tom N]

You can rev stock springs to 8k with out a problem as long as the cams arent bigger than 272`s or a x grind

 

[avaien]

thanks guys thats what I was thinking. If I do head studs do I need a new headgasket? my complete upgrade list would consist of:
timing belt kit, lifters, cams, head studs, head gasket, lsd, fix my clutch clicking sound, and what would I need to rev to 8k? can I get a flash?

 

[daren_p]

Depending on what cams you get you can rev to 8000 rpms, personally I like to be on the safe side & would recommend atleast upgraded valve springs, you can also get titanium retainers while your in there (you save $$$ if you buy both springs/retainers as a combo). The stock head gasket has been known to hold a good amount of boost with a set of ARP studs. If you don't plan on doing the head gasket it is possible to replace the studs one at a time without removing the head. I don't know how reputable your reputable shop is

 

[JOEY A]

ARP head studs, with a MLS head gasket and your good to go. Our motors have seen 450whp without breaking a sweet as long as its tuned good.


Im running 272s HKS cams with stock springs etc, im reving to 7,900ish almost 8000 but I shift at 7,500.

This is a good site for info, wise men are always here to help you out...

 

[GVR4592]

I wouldn't even bother with the headstuds and headgasket. Cams aren't going to do anything to put them at risk of failing. Stock bolts and gasket have been taken a lot farther than most people think.

 

[avaien]

no head studs with 20+ psi of boost?

 

[larsrya8]

The stock head gasket has been known to hold a good amount of boost with a set of ARP studs. If you don't plan on doing the head gasket it is possible to replace the studs one at a time without removing the head.

I have a question about this.

First, should you perform this in any particular order? Also, do we still do the "torquing in steps" method?

For instance: pull a head bolt, install the stud by torquing it to 30 ft/lbs, and then go onto the next one? Then when they are all installed, go around and finish torquing in sequence?

Or, do you just pull a stud and put the ARP in and torque it to final spec right away?

 

[nanokpsi]

no head studs with 20+ psi of boost?

I ran mine daily with over 20 psi on pump for years. I never upgraded my factory bolts or gasket.

 

[GVR4592]

I ran mine daily with over 20 psi on pump for years. I never upgraded my factory bolts or gasket.

Same here 25+ psi daily for almost 2 years before I switched to studs and a cometic(I still think it's overkill).

 

[toybreaker]

Shops are in the business of selling parts.

They would like to sell you many parts...

Some of these are really necessary to keep things contained, and some are insurance, and some are just pure profit for them.

You've just heard from people who have run what you want to run, more or less...

That's real world experience.

All I can add is the tune is the most important part to having things live at higher boost/power levels. A little detonation will destroy anything short of unobtanium in fairly short order.

And, trully stupid power levels will live with well assembled, correctly spec'd factory pieces, and the correct supporting mods.

 

[Turbo Shogun]

I had HKS 264's on the stock bottom end (that's changing now) for about 15,000 miles.

Never had an issue, and the cams gave me some serious midrange punch. When I had my 14B I'd still run out of steam past 5k, but the cams did make a difference at high RPM's, vs the stock cams, according to my ass dyno. I love them. I didn't go with 272's or the 264/272 combo because of the minimal gains and longer-than-stock spool.

I did purchase the HKS Shotpeen/Heat Treated valve springs. They're not much stiffer than the stock ones (my machinist at the time suggested that I was ripped off), but they are more resistant to float. I've revved my to 7,500 all day long at autocrosses and track events without so much as a hiccup, provided I ran with a full tank, but that's the subject of another thread ...

Recently pulled my motor and the rods were just fine as well.

 

[JOEY A]

I would do Arps and be done with it, all at once get it outta the way. I have 272s when I had a stock motor and it was fine.