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Cam choice for my setup and future setup looking for advice

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The thing that were getting on you for though, more to the point, is that either way.. you don't really know that stuff.

You are still regurgitating what you were told, and passed it off as though it were first hand, grounded in experience.

This is where many errors in translation take place, and many misconceptions can arise and others can take that and run with it, as gospel. Which happens surprisingly often.

While I don't doubt what you were told is reliable and tested advice, this is the sort of thing where you should defer to the people posting who have direct experience and data in the matter.

Let those who know directly what they are talking about with this platform help the OP.

Private messaging:thumb: You know when I want tried and tested information I scroll down to the dyno challenge or 1/4 mile times and look at some of those guys and I start taking advantage of the PM feature for all my concerns this is how I got to the 500hp club. These boards are truly awesome trust me. I in turn help those who PM
 
This is why most guys who port and polish a head for a boosted engine will just clean the casting to allow the turbo to push air through the head without disturbance. Enlarging a valve IMO is not worth it on a forced induction engine to achieve increased volumetric efficiency this is done by the turbo forcing the air which save the engine the work of pulling it especially at the cost of putting more weight on the valve train:aha: MJ just think about it for a second. And if you disagree then all that matters is being happy with what you want to do right;)

Some food for thought though. I thought smooth everything out would be best. But was talking to a guy that said its not the best thing to do. I could understand what the guy was saying to as well. That's where I got the vortex idea from. But I don't want to use up anymore of this dude's thread so pm for if you want to hear the idea. OP hope you figure out what you need.

The thing that were getting on you for though, more to the point, is that either way.. you don't really know that stuff.

You are still regurgitating what you were told, and passed it off as though it were first hand, grounded in experience.

This is where many errors in translation take place, and many misconceptions can arise and others can take that and run with it, as gospel. Which happens surprisingly often.

While I don't doubt what you were told is reliable and tested advice, this is the sort of thing where you should defer to the people posting who have direct experience and data in the matter.

Let those who know directly what they are talking about with this platform help the OP.

Agreed. My apologies.
 
Some food for thought though. I thought smooth everything out would be best. But was talking to a guy that said its not the best thing to do. I could understand what the guy was saying to as well. That's where I got the vortex idea from. But I don't want to use up anymore of this dude's thread so pm for if you want to hear the idea. OP hope you figure out what you need.



Agreed. My apologies.

I think you are confusing cast cleaning with polishing. Read a little on the subject and you will see why you don't what to polish the intake the same as exhaust. Another subject.
 
I'd go with a set of GSC S2's IMHO. Nothing wrong with Kelfords but the GSC's are where it's at right now.
 
I just ordered evo 8 springs and retainers

Please rethink your spring choice.

These are no better than stock....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...m-evo-spring-retainer-kits-85-00-shipped.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...evo-valve-springs-280-cams.html#post152629280

If you do decide to go with Kelford or the clones, or some of th GS Grinds, you will need a good behive spring and retainer set up, such as the Kiggley or Ferrea Also I think JAM has a set up now too.

As far as "stock valve" VS "1mm OS valve"... the big thing is if the machinist will install them properly, if the throat is not opened up from the stock size then little to no gain will be seen.

I have also seen home ported heads flow worse than stock, due to the person getting grinder happy, If all you do is a clean up and blend, and stay away from the short turn radius, you should be fine.
 
Good info, once again from Bogus. :thumbs: I never understood using the Evo springs and retaners. A little bit of weight savings but the actual benefits are negligible. Most, if not all of the beehives on the market are all made by PAC ( a major spring manufacturer ). Kiggley, GSC, Kelford and Ferrea for sure. We sell the Kiggleys. We had our own kits for some years with these springs and titanium retainers that we had contracted out but couldn't compete with Kiggley pretty much giving them away.

A note about oversized valves; While not a necessity for making big power, they typically are needed when you replace the valve guides. When new guides are installed, the valve stem doesn't locate in the exact same place in relation to the seat. So what you then have to do is cut the seat to re-establish concentricity. The downside to this is that if you place a stock size valve on this now larger seat, the valve will be "sunk". This affects the valve height, spring pressure and screws up pretty much all of the valvetrain geometry. It also places the 45* on the valve onto the wrong place on the seat which will affect the durability of the valve and the seat and this also KILLS the flow! It also slightly decreases the compression ratio. To compensate for this you use an oversized valve which will properly locate on the seat and allow you to take advantage of any port work.

If your machinist doesn't replace the guides or hack up the seats you will be fine with stock sized valves.
 
hmm i didnt know evo springs weren't an improvement. i want to get a 272 i think and only looking to rev to 8k
 
I ran single BC springs(Yes BC not Crower) on the 274's I had and revved out to 9k, I never had a problem. Then again I only did this for about 2k miles before I swapped to fp2's. You should be fine with those springs unless you were going to a kelford 272 cam.
 
i was just wondering if i would need anything else, like retainers etc.... all these tough choices makes me want to just get something like this EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts... what do you guys think about that. either way i go i'll prob go with hks or bc cams 272 cams.

Hey man I feel your pain. You can't go wrong with this choice. I made my 553hp on a set of bc272s installed straight up with stock cam gears. Out of all the cams I tested the bc 272s ended up being my cam of choice one word "streetable";)
 
Hey man I feel your pain. You can't go wrong with this choice. I made my 553hp on a set of bc272s installed straight up with stock cam gears. Out of all the cams I tested the bc 272s ended up being my cam of choice one word "streetable";)

if i just get those springs i posted will they go right in with all my other stock head componants? or will i need retainers or anything else?
 
if i just get those springs i posted will they go right in with all my other stock head componants? or will i need retainers or anything else?

Yeah those springs will work with the stock retainers with no issues.
 
it may be better just to get those springs, and buy the 272's seprate i guess.
 
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