Calling all you FP Red guys!

[dsm-onster]

I feel you're head will lift long before you break the block, with a good tune; if your block is completely stock. See below. . .

I have never noticed a difference in fastener strength. The cars i have seen push coolant with stock bolts(very few) were at the same cylinder pressures as arp cars that pushed coolant(also very few). Mid 30's boost, and lot's of timing.

My view of the 6-bolt engine, is that a fresh one is a good setup for 450 whp, all day. At the point you need to upgrade, it makes sense to upgrade all at once, rods, pistons, fasteners, head components. Upgrading any on component, won't really have much of an effect overall.

To me, it is a no brainer to go straight to the h11/l19 studs. Even if the arps are a little stronger, the l19/h11 materal is good for the life of the engine, and some.

We've see two 6bolt blocks with stock rods/pistons on this site do 600whp numbers. Both had arp head studs or bigger. I've seen none make 600whp with the stock head bolts. That's all I'm saying. I've always seen stock head bolts start pushing coolant before. Including mine. Now my fresh stock head bolts did phenominal for me, I feel. Since I saw 52lb/min out of the 60-1 before they started letting the head lift. But after the arp swap that went away. . . Maybe I was a one time case, but it certainly was a direct comparison.

Still not many fpred owners (60-1) will see much over 52-53lb/min with the 7cm^2 housing. So the OP will likely be completely fine with stock 6bolt head bolts. They are amazing to hold down that much cylinder pressure per cylinder. And oh yes, I agree! As a complete stock block they are amazing considering they were manufactured in the late 80s and early 90s. Stock 6bolt blocks have several key advantages over the 7bolts even without the girdle. How many I4s manufactured in the 90s have seen 600whp with a head stud swap!?

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I've got headstuds, and since so many people are running the stock block on high horsepower applications I'm also not too worried about blowing the block. I could max a 3052 out with 1000cc injectors correct? Not saying I want to, just want to be sure I'm getting enough fuel. I also just got me a Walbro 255 in replacement for the 190 that is currently in the car.

 

[dsm-onster]

You'll be on the edge. Member BrianAWD, whose trapped 131mph in a 3300lbs race weight GVR4, bent his 6bolt rods just before netting such a number with the 3052. That MPH/weight is right at 570-580whp on a dynojet.

 

[jking29]

The flow is there on the red. One of the guys in my local club recently dynoed 557hp/518lbft on a 2.4 with the red and didn't have it fully dialed in yet. Unfortunately, he cracked a cylinder wall on that pull. He thought he lifted the head until he pulled the head off.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Wow.. Ya I'm not really looking for my motor to turn into rice paper haha

 

[dsm-onster]

As mentioned the fpred is a 60lb/min 60-1 compressor mated to a clipped t06h turbine wheel. Laggy but with race gas can make 550whp with a spot on tune and a good combination of boltons. The HOTSIDE of the fpred or any typical dsm 60-1 is NOT friendly to pumpgas being pushed to levels where you see the full potential of the compressor. You need some boost, which heats up intake manifold temps. Detonation will turn your motor to "rice paper". But if you're looking for 500whp or less you most certainly would have a good turbo for that while keeping IAT down. But then again as mentioned, there are SEVERAL other turbos out there that are comparable in price or far less that can do the same results while spooling faster and still maintain that lower IAT. . . It's really just old tech to the dsm platform.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Well I have a good offer on a Red right now, I'm teeter tottering over a Red or a 3052.. I'm not CRAZY concerned over spool, I just wanna make easy power and still have fun .