Calling all you FP Red guys!

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Ok so I just can't make my mind up on a turbo.. I've always wanted a FP Red but was worried about how streetable my car would be so I looked into alternatives but somehow keep finding myself looking back to the FP Red so I've just decided to swallow the bullet and go for it. Currently my car is a 1990 Talon TSI AWD with 190xxx miles and only 5k miles on the rebuilt head with balance shafts eliminated, ARP headstuds, cometic HG, and a gates timing belt. The car will be my DD, so I plan on having a more conservative tune(still in the power range of the turbo of course). So far I need to change my setup a little as it is more setup for Autox, I am still running the smic with all hard piping, so a FMIC will be my friend soon. So I'll be purchasing injectors(1000cc or bigger), Link(already have a Eprom ECU), maybe a bigger fuel pump(currently running a walbro 190), FMIC(I was thinking something like the ETS fmic), cams(decided to go with FP2's), already have a clutch so I'm good there, FP 4" intake, and of course the Red. I'm sure there is a lot more, but I'm just throwing out the basics. Now one thing I can't decide on is if I want to try and run it internally gated, or just go ahead with a EWG off the o2 housing.. Anyways, opinions?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Spend the extra $120 and get a 3052 instead.

 

[Rockbmx1]

The red is a good turbo, I have run that one. I have had a green too and that was fun. The turbo I have now is a red, but I have the HTA82 compressor wheel on it instead of the 60-1 wheel. I am seeing about 22psi by 4k rpm. The red I had was seeing the same 22psi about 4500-4600rpm. If you are going with a red, then get it with the HTA82 wheel. It makes the car pull way harder and it hits much harder when the turbo comes alive.

 

[JusMX141]

The FP DSM Red was designed years ago before many of the turbos which you can choose from in today's market were even available. It is the most aggressive 20G you can buy, built for extracting maximum airflow under racing racing; not designed with street use in mind whatsoever. It uses the largest Mitsubishi turbine wheel available on our cars, clipped 15* for increased airflow and added lag. During "normal" street driving you'll never hit boost; not even come close, actually.

I'd find something a little more affordable with better street manners if I were you. There are plenty of good choices....the Holset HX35 in a DSM bolt-on turbine housing, Bullseye S256ETT in a DSM bolt-on housing, and FP 3052 are all great choices with better street manners than the Red....depending on how much you're looking to spend.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

So the 3052 would really be more streetable than the Red? I was thinking about the 3052 I just didn't know how it would be compared to the Red.

I was looking at the turbo and its pretty interesting looking, very unique how you mount the wastegate off the exhaust housing with a v band and mount the o2 housing with the v band. Very cool indeed.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

So the 3052 would really be more streetable than the Red? I was thinking about the 3052 I just didn't know how it would be compared to the Red.

I was looking at the turbo and its pretty interesting looking, very unique how you mount the wastegate off the exhaust housing with a v band and mount the o2 housing with the v band. Very cool indeed.

It would definitely have a more streetable torque curve than a red would on a 2.0.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

What would be a good amount of streetable boost on the stock block(for now).

 

[Boosted98gsx]

What would be a good amount of streetable boost on the stock block(for now).

With the proper fuel mods and tuning? I wouldn't run more than 20-23psi w/o getting head studs. After you upgrade the studs, as long as you keep the knock away, you can run as much as you want (within reason). I believe the GT3076r peaks out at 52 lbs/min at something like 35psi. I personally wouldn't go that high on an OEM engine, as the tiniest amount of knock on that much boost would more than likely kill a rod.

 

[JusMX141]

What would be a good amount of streetable boost on the stock block(for now).

25-30psi is not unreasonable if you have the tune and fuel to do so. Remember- more boost doesn't automatically make your car faster. A good tune at 25psi will be more powerful than a poor tune at 30psi.

With the proper fuel mods and tuning? I wouldn't run more than 20-23psi w/o getting head studs.

Really?

Currently my car is a 1990 Talon TSI AWD with 190xxx miles and only 5k miles on the rebuilt head with balance shafts eliminated, ARP headstuds, cometic HG, and a gates timing belt.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Oh, well he said stock block. Sorry for the ASSumption

 

[JusMX141]

I see how that could confuse. I took stock block as meaning stock low-end (190k pistons, rods, bearings, crank).....although if the engine has been well cared-for it's entire life, there's no reason it shouldn't perform as strong as one with 50k.

The low end in my FWD had 130k on it when I tore it down, and it honestly didn't even need rebuilt. The bearings showed no wear at all, and the ring end gap was .003" larger on the old rings than the new ones. Apparently the previous owner(s) were good at doing oil changes!

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Just wanting to be certain, you have made sure the compression is good across your cyl's right? Better to make sure you have good compression before you try to get an engine to perform that has 20% compression on a cylinder from a broken ring land.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Yes the car has had a compression test and leakdown test done and are all perfect, the oil has been changed every 3,000 miles its whole life with mobil 1 and it has ARP headstuds.

 

[donniekak]

Regular arp headstuds Aren't really an upgrade to good 6-bolt factory headbolts. I have run 30 psi on large frame turbos with them without issue. When i upgrade the 6-bolt fasteners i go straight to h11/l19.
This picture shows why headstuds are more of a 7-bolt issue.

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[toofast82]

The Red will actually spool pretty good for its potential from what i've seen firsthand
But as said, its kind of old technology nowadays and there are alot of options in its price range

 

[tallywacker]

Honestly the evoII16g maybe really be all you need. I would consider that first IMO for streetability and good power.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I have a GSX with a 18g, looking for more power than that.

 

[tallywacker]

I have a GSX with a 18g, looking for more power than that.

Well all I had to go from was your profile which says you have a 14b BRO

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Well all I had to go from was your profile which says you have a 14b BRO

O sorry Lol, I don't have the GSX posted up.

 

[dsm-onster]

Regular arp headstuds Aren't really an upgrade to good 6-bolt factory headbolts. I have run 30 psi on large frame turbos with them without issue. When i upgrade the 6-bolt fasteners i go straight to h11/l19.
This picture shows why headstuds are more of a 7-bolt issue.

I don't know. I'm definately not negating the ability of the 6bolt headbolts. I've beat them for years hard with 16g an 18g turbos. But isnt the arp stud MATERIAL of superior quality to the 6bolt head bolt? Both are the same diameter but one can be clamped down tighter and stretch less.

Yes 7bolt head bolts are much weaker.

 

[JayRolla]

My buddy runs a red in his evo. It is very streetable and works just fine. It only dynoed 410whp on e85 at 28psi but still a good turbo. I would look into a turbo that flows better IMO.

On the headbolt discussion I also believe the 6 bolt headbolts are as good as the normal ARP's. Ive ran 30psi for the last year or so and they never stretch along with a lot of others I know.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

My buddy runs a red in his evo. It is very streetable and works just fine. It only dynoed 410whp on e85 at 28psi but still a good turbo. I would look into a turbo that flows better IMO.

On the headbolt discussion I also believe the 6 bolt headbolts are as good as the normal ARP's. Ive ran 30psi for the last year or so and they never stretch along with a lot of others I know.

On the stock head??

 

[donniekak]

I don't know. I'm definately not negating the ability of the 6bolt headbolts. I've beat them for years hard with 16g an 18g turbos. But isnt the arp stud MATERIAL of superior quality to the 6bolt head bolt? Both are the same diameter but one can be clamped down tighter and stretch less.

Yes 7bolt head bolts are much weaker.

I have never noticed a difference in fastener strength. The cars i have seen push coolant with stock bolts(very few) were at the same cylinder pressures as arp cars that pushed coolant(also very few). Mid 30's boost, and lot's of timing.

My view of the 6-bolt engine, is that a fresh one is a good setup for 450 whp, all day. At the point you need to upgrade, it makes sense to upgrade all at once, rods, pistons, fasteners, head components. Upgrading any on component, won't really have much of an effect overall.

To me, it is a no brainer to go straight to the h11/l19 studs. Even if the arps are a little stronger, the l19/h11 materal is good for the life of the engine, and some.

 

[toofast82]

My buddy runs a Red on his stock 6bolt. How fast it spools and how the quick the car is amazes me.

Also as said, stock 6bolt headbolts are very strong and capable

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I'm not too worried about the head lifting, its throwing a rod or blowing my car up period haha. If I blow the bottom end its whatever I'll build the bottom end, my head is a different story though since I just had it rebuilt and don't feel like doing it again anytime soon.