Buying parts for my engine - review

[Canadian_CD9A]

Now im out of my league here on the engine specs but i want an 2.0 LR setup and i was told the rods and pins have alot less stress then any other setup so beefing these up seems a bit pointless! I mean sure uograde them but they get less stress then an oem 2.0 block, so for this reason why go overboard on the rods and pins?

The rod angle is lessened, which puts less thrust loading on the piston skirt as it goes up and down the bore. That said, RPM is still an exponential stress, so when winding it up high like the LR can do, you'll still need adequate connecting rod/rod bolt strength. I consider it a wash - with the LR, you have less stress at the same RPM as a 150mm rod, but you'll probably rev it higher. I'm fairly certain that the long-rod improves dwell time at TDC, which leads to better cylinder filling and higher VE at higher RPM. For piston pins, I would think that it's the same amount of stress. Going to 9,000 is a lot on any engine, but throwing 500HP worth of bang behind it, you need something that is strong, yet light at the same time. Most people with 500HP don't wind out 9,000 RPM since there is no power up there; typically people who rev 9,000+ have 700+ hp to go with it, and need megabuck connecting rods to suit. I'm a strange case since autocross benefits people who can get lots and lots of speed out of 2nd gear. I wouldn't ever be shifting to 3rd past 8,000, but having that extra 1,000 RPM is a LOT of speed (extra 8 MPH) where everyone else would lose time shifting up to 3rd and down.

I'll draw attention to the fact that twicks69 went 8,000+ with 750 WHP on a well-built 2.3L stroker with off-the-shelf Eagle rods for a very long time. Eagle rods are underrated I think - they could probably be better from the factory, but they'll take a hell of a beating and keep going. If only they made them in 156mm. It's not too late for me to switch to a 94mm crank/150mm rod, but that might be the extra torque that shreds a transmission.

 

[bastarddsm]

Now im out of my league here on the engine specs but i want an 2.0 LR setup and i was told the rods and pins have alot less stress then any other setup so beefing these up seems a bit pointless! I mean sure uograde them but they get less stress then an oem 2.0 block, so for this reason why go overboard on the rods and pins?

Whoever told you that didn't really know what they were talking about. A lr is slightly better than stock. We're talking like 2-5%. Look up to stroke or not,. I haven't checked the math in the whole paper, but it's probably pretty reliable info.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Whoever told you that didn't really know what they were talking about. A lr is slightly better than stock. We're talking like 2-5%. Look up to stroke or not,. I haven't checked the math in the whole paper, but it's probably pretty reliable info.

I read all my info from here. Because of the lighter piston and perhaps rod aswel the stress on the crank and rotation also relates to less bearing wear and there for overall reliabikity with one of the highest rpm ranges. As the rod stands more vertical and not moving at a wider motion this is why it was said to be less stress on the pin as it can be within a better range for optimum stress, so basically less yanking from a wider area and confined to a narrower path,

Ateast thats how i rear it as,

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The rod angle is lessened, which puts less thrust loading on the piston skirt as it goes up and down the bore. That said, RPM is still an exponential stress, so when winding it up high like the LR can do, you'll still need adequate connecting rod/rod bolt strength. I consider it a wash - with the LR, you have less stress at the same RPM as a 150mm rod, but you'll probably rev it higher. I'm fairly certain that the long-rod improves dwell time at TDC, which leads to better cylinder filling and higher VE at higher RPM. For piston pins, I would think that it's the same amount of stress. Going to 9,000 is a lot on any engine, but throwing 500HP worth of bang behind it, you need something that is strong, yet light at the same time. Most people with 500HP don't wind out 9,000 RPM since there is no power up there; typically people who rev 9,000+ have 700+ hp to go with it, and need megabuck connecting rods to suit. I'm a strange case since autocross benefits people who can get lots and lots of speed out of 2nd gear. I wouldn't ever be shifting to 3rd past 8,000, but having that extra 1,000 RPM is a LOT of speed (extra 8 MPH) where everyone else would lose time shifting up to 3rd and down.

I'll draw attention to the fact that twicks69 went 8,000+ with 750 WHP on a well-built 2.3L stroker with off-the-shelf Eagle rods for a very long time. Eagle rods are underrated I think - they could probably be better from the factory, but they'll take a hell of a beating and keep going. If only they made them in 156mm. It's not too late for me to switch to a 94mm crank/150mm rod, but that might be the extra torque that shreds a transmission.

See im no expeet but base alot of my info from here, i replied below with why i read it was better from my understanding, might be wrong but its hkw i saw my info i read,

I dont know who makes the better parts but i have always liked what magnus offers but its alot of money and i really dont know if thats better the the other stuff out there, as i said im no expert here on this stuff and only basic reading at the moment on this,