burn on white boards next to caps.

[lowboost13]

Hey guys I found that when removing my caps. in my ecu, there is a slight burn on the one of the two boards that run parallel and next to the caps. Is that normal? Should I be worried? If I should were can I get a new one? I'll try and upload a picture later my computer wasnt letting me upload one on tuners.

 

[goodbye]

I've never seen it jump like that, just leak onto the board from the cap itself. Might check over at ECMlink, Thomas and Dave have probably seen every possible scenario.

 

[lowboost13]

How would I go by asking them? Send them an email?

 

[lowboost13]

Ok so I sent them an email, and they replied nicely and said that that part needs to be replaced, and said that I could do it myself as long as i have the right tools. But im also wondering can I get this part from a non eprom ecu, or do I have to get it from an eprom ecu?

 

[steve]

IC110 is common to all 91-94 DSM ECUs and many of the other Mitsubishi ECUs from the same era. There is no difference in the part between turbo, non-turbo, EPROM or non-EPROM within the same model years. The version on 90 and earlier ECUs is slightly different and not interchangable.

This damage was caused by the capacitors leaking and corroding the part.

IC110 handles things like turning on the MPI relay and telling the ECU when to shutdown. On the back side the black squares are resistors for the solenoid drivers.

Unfortunately damage like this happens all the time. I don't have many parts ECUs left that don't have IC110 stripped off to use as a replacement.

 

[rts91tsi]

I just pulled this one off a parts ECU I have, if you need one PM me if you want me to send it out.

 

[lowboost13]

IC110 is common to all 91-94 DSM ECUs and many of the other Mitsubishi ECUs from the same era. There is no difference in the part between turbo, non-turbo, EPROM or non-EPROM within the same model years. The version on 90 and earlier ECUs is slightly different and not interchangable.

This damage was caused by the capacitors leaking and corroding the part.

IC110 handles things like turning on the MPI relay and telling the ECU when to shutdown. On the back side the black squares are resistors for the solenoid drivers.

Unfortunately damage like this happens all the time. I don't have many parts ECUs left that don't have IC110 stripped off to use as a replacement.

Ok thanks! I have a spare ecu out of a non turbo 1991 laser can I use that part in my eprom ecu in my 91 talon tsi? they do look kinda the same.

Also I attached a pic, there is a spot on my ecu board that is missing some green, will this affect anything? I did a prob test and all the connections are still good.
Thanks, Sean

 

[stars]

You can see how corrosive the caps can be. It had eaten the protective coating off the board all the way down to the copper. What you see is the green coating eaten off the top of the board but as long as it checks good on continuity all should be O.K. Use a Q-Tip and some denatured alcohol and clean that area really good. Just try to remove the cap fluid spillage as best as you can, keep cleaning until the Q-tip is no longer dirty. The white board has 2 different part numbers but they should interact the same. As Steve mentioned above they both serve the same purpose so, should not matter what kind of DSM it is out of as long as of course it is from a 1G.

 

[lowboost13]

Ok thank you everyone! I will try and clean it the best I can, then solder in the other white board from my laser and put in new caps and let you guys know how it goes!

 

[steve]

The white board has 2 different part numbers but they should interact the same. As Steve mentioned above they both serve the same purpose so, should not matter what kind of DSM it is out of as long as of course it is from a 1G.

I thought I said that there are two different IC110's and they are not compatible/interchangeable. I didn't remember but noticed when I went downstairs, that the 1.8L ECUs don't use either type of IC110 since their MPI circuit is quite different.

The ones on the 91-94 ECUs (E538) are different than the ones on the 90 and prior ECU's (E527).

 

[rts91tsi]

It is also not a bad idea to remove the green mask film in the darkened areas where the electrolyte has penetrated. After doing so clean the area as "stars" suggested.

Additionally you can use some baking soda and a old tooth brush to scrub the affected areas of the board. This will neutralize any acid left behind, as well as scour the copper pads clean removing excessive oxidation, which will help them accept solder easier. Just blow the excess off with some keyboard cleaner.

 

[stars]

In reference to what Steve said, there is 2 different part numbers for the IC110's in which I have both types of ECU's. The IC110's have the same number of pins but after looking at them they almost appear the same. The circuitry for the EEPROM and NON EEPROM slightly differ on the white boards (IC110's). That's is why I said they look different but have 2 different part numbers, they should act the same in this instance. I'm no expert in ECU's, so if anyone can shed some light about this, that would save another post from this poor fella. He is trying to put his ECU back together and I'm sure he would like to know if he's not wasting his time and effort by trying to patch together 2 different ECU's to make one work. Anyone who can give a definitive answer would be appreciated. Thanks to those who have replied and provided feedback, that's what makes this community such a valuable resource to have when really needed.

 

[steve]

I'm no expert in ECU's, so if anyone can shed some light about this, that would save another post from this poor fella. He is trying to put his ECU back together and I'm sure he would like to know if he's not wasting his time and effort by trying to patch together 2 different ECU's to make one work. Anyone who can give a definitive answer would be appreciated.

Stars, Click on my name and select Visit steve's homepage. Based on what others tell me, I am an ECU expert.

BTW when referring to a 1G or 95 2G ECU it's EPROM not EEPROM. Only the 98/99 ECUs had electrically erasable programmable read only memory (in the CPU), the rest all use a 27xxx series erasable programmable read only memory parts or just the ROM in the CPU.

 

[stars]

No problem Steve I know I wasn't using the proper term but, was just trying to keep him from getting confused (hopefully you/he understands). Was just trying to keep it simple, after all there is allot he is trying to do at once and has many questions than answers. Thanks for the clarification, I learned something new today =).

 

[lowboost13]

thanks guys! And i tried using my 91 lasers chip, but that one is burn to, so I guess Ill have to get another ecu.

 

[steve]

Why don't you post a few pictures of the whole board so we can see the scope of the problems.
I can tell from the two pictures you have posted that it's an EPROM ECU and that there is quite a bit of corrosion on the main ground trace, your missing one of the 0.01uf SMD capacitors for filtering the 5v bus, the pads for the main 5v bus filter capacitor are too corroded to solder to, the filter capacitor for the 12v leaked and damaged it's SMD caps along with the ISC trace. There is also likely additional corrosion damage under the heat sink.

 

[steve]

My main concern is that the holes that the prongs go through for the white chip are messed up to much. How would you recommend testing them?

That's the least of your worries. You've just started fixing the problems.

All I need to do is clean the area, solder in the new chip, and new caps right?

As I mentioned in my last post, there are a lot more issues with your ECU than just replacing IC110. You might get it to work for awhile by replacing IC110 but it will leave you stranded somewhere one day.

You have three paths to choose from now.

1. You can attempt to repair this on your own. You'll have to learn quite a bit about how the ECU works and pickup a few tools you might not have and new parts like all the missing or damaged SMD caps (C14, C37, C38 ...) so that you aren't just relying on luck to fix it. Anything that's not the color of clean metal or paint over clean metal is corrosion damaged and will need to be cleaned to shiny metal, all the connections tested for opens, all the corrosion damaged parts replaced and once your done fixing it protect the repairs for new corrosion caused by moisture in the air.

2. You can send it to ECMTuning or another qualified repair shop. There's a lot that needs to be fixed on top of anything you might have done taking out IC110. When your done you should have a solid ECU but it will never be a clean one again.

3. Buy a replacement EPROM ECU in good shape. You want one that had the capacitors replaced before they leaked and damaged the PCB.

 

[lowboost13]

Ok I think I'll just try and find a new one. My friend said he would give me the money back. Thanks for the replys!

 

[steve]

That make a lot of sense.