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building a head. couple of questions!

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2gGst98

10+ Year Contributor
702
58
Oct 3, 2010
Concord, North Carolina
I will start off by saing that I got a long block a little while back and was planing on building it. But what I plan on now is to just rebuild the head and swap them out to get rid of lifter tick, or valve sticking, (not shure witch one it is but I want it to stop) and just have better air flow. So I am not building the head for what I want just to a little bit above specs.

The motor is from a 95 gsx with about 95k Miles on it My car is a 98. I know that the Cam sensor is diffrent but is anything else in the head diffrent between the two? I do plan on getting new cams for it stock 98 cams for now, 3g lifters and a slight porting on the exhaust side plus slides, seals, ect. But is a 98-99 cams the only thing that I will need to get for it to just swap in?

As for the porting how shuld I go about it (I am helping a machineist to get done so its free thats why I am porting), what I mean is shuld I get a 1g ex. mani. and port to match or use the spare 2g ex. mani. that I got and port them both? Also If I do port it out will I need to tune for it? I dont plan on getting into tunning untill I rebuild my whole motor that I got, and start my real build.

Just got done with my suspencion, and now my head is acting up. so I am going to swap the heads just to get it right. Bottom end is good no problems their.(KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK! thats me knocking on wood) But I dont want to get into my build plan untill I build the block also. I can do the head in a weekend that is why I want to do this first. But I do want a little bit more power for the mean time witch is why I am porting.

So any tips or advice or help would be appreciated. Just FYI, I am no master tech this is my hobbie, so I am not entierly shure of what I am exactly doing, though I have put togther heads befor.
 
I dont understand how that helps. My valves are good I have good power, It just ticks when its cold, I want that to stop. So rebuild spare head I have and replace. Then build my car when I have a running car that dont tick. The ticking scares me and I dont like it.
 
And I do think I no what I am doing, just want to make shure that the cam sensor is the only thing that is diffrent. Because all I have to do about tha is get a 98 cam am I right?

sorry I didnt see your post when I posted but yea that does help. But I do know how to rebuild a head LOL. But always like pics for reference thanks bogus

is a 98-99 cams the only thing that I will need to get for it to just swap in? that is for the cam sensor. 95 cam dont have the spot for the 98 sensor. that is what I ment for that question is their anything else that is diffrent that I have to change for it to just be put in. I hope that makes sence for that question
 
If it is what I am thinking, it is not the cam, but the intake cam gear with the reluctor wheel on the inside you need.
The cam sensor is on the front of the head, and not a CAS that you use.

If that is the case then the head you rebuild with have to have the mounting boss for the cam sensor to bolt to.


Once you get the head done, post some pics up, I would like to see what kind of work you had done.
 
ok I will have to compare them close up to compair and see what exactly you are talking about. But it wont be for a couple of weeks, I just want to no befor I start to know what I have to order. And yes I will post picks of it.

does anyone have imput on the porting im gana do. Shuld I go with the 1g manifold or the 2g? will the 1g bolt up to the t25 that I got. (soon to be t28)
 
Knife-edging the dividers, cleaning up the bowls and any casting flash under the valveseats is about all I would do on a 2G head for the turbo you have in mind.. Perhaps gasket-match the ports to which manifold you decide to run.

Regarding your question on the manifold, they are direct replacement for one another. But the 2g is considered to flow better, perhaps have your machinist port and polish that as well. Though for the costs involved, I don't see why you wouldn't consider going to a used E3-16G or a S16G instead of a T28.
 
I just realy like the t28 money dont matter I can save a little longer for what I want. Money comes and goes with these cars. It just seems to go alot faster when you get what you want. I know a 16g is cheaper but I like the direct fit of the t28.

But I dont know what is (Knife-edging the dividers, or casting flash under the valveseats).
 
When you look into the ports on either the exhaust or intake side, you will see there is a divider between the two valves. This can be ground down, and smoothed out.

The casting flashes are a by-product of the process in which the heads are made, and they can be quite large. They are under the valve seats and can also be ground out.

I have seen this on many 1G and 2G heads.
 
ok cool I will look into that. Will that give that little bit more power I was looking for? That sounds easier than porting it. Im not looking or 50hp just like 10 - 15 hp and maby 10 tq not alot still a DD, that I only drive one full day a week, and maby an hr a day week cause my job gave me a truck.

I have been looking up on cleaning up my casting flashes and it does seem like a good idea and I will be doing that but I havn't found anything on gains. again I am not looking for alot just a little more pull in
3rd and 4th. Cause with a basicly stock set up a slight porting on the ex side I wont get alot of gain, but that is what I am looking for. If I smooth things up a little bit and get some where close to that then that is what I will do, and not the porting and save some time.

Ok so I have also been looking at my other question about if putting a 98 cam in a 95 head, if that would work. I did read what bogus said but I just read on another post that changing the cam will work. Can anyone verrify or say what I need to do to be able to do the swapp?
 
I had a S16G on one of my old DSMs where with no other changes except the port/polish, bowl blending/casting clean up and knife edging I picked up 3.x lbs/min (potentially enough mass flow for 30+ whp) at the same boost level, which I believe was 21psi at the time.

This was on a 1G head however. I did port the 2G exhaust manifold I was using as well, and knife-edged the divider at the collector.

The exhaust note changed noticeably as well.

As far as the cams, have considered just throwing some adjustable gears on? Also I have some of the allegedly more aggressive "D" and "F" cams from a 1991-92 DSM if you would be interested. Though I don't know if my current member status allows me to sell anything just yet.
 
I appreciate the offer but im gana pass. Im not doing my build yet just a in deph tune up with a little tweek. I plan on running stock t25 with BCS restrictor removed. But from what you say you picked up a good amount on the set up you have, so on a stock set up I shuld see a little increase. Probably about what I am looking for.

If I through on some adjustable cam gears on will that allow it to swap in with no ecu miss reads? And how would I go about that. it seams to easy to be right.

I am putting on a boost guage and MBC, and the restrictor is already off.
 
I appreciate the offer but im gana pass. Im not doing my build yet just a in deph tune up with a little tweek. I plan on running stock t25 with BCS restrictor removed. But from what you say you picked up a good amount on the set up you have, so on a stock set up I shuld see a little increase. Probably about what I am looking for.

If I through on some adjustable cam gears on will that allow it to swap in with no ecu miss reads? And how would I go about that. it seams to easy to be right.

I am putting on a boost guage and MBC, and the restrictor is already off.

I should clarify, that was long ago on an old, entirely stock setup with the exception of ECMLink, MBC, FMIC, Injectors and Fuel pump.

What do you mean by "ECU misreads?" If you are moving to another turbo, bigger injectors, etc. You will need a tuning device. As long as mechanical timing is good and the CAS is functioning as it should there should be no issues with adding adjustable gears to tweak your VE.
 
Use the cam sensor that came with your car. I can't remember if a 95 intake cam is tapped for a 98 cas. I can check when I get home though since I still have my complete stock head sitting on a shelf. If its not tapped then you can simply swap your 98 cam into the 95 head. That will allow you to use the cas that came with your car. No rewiring/inverting/plug swapping needed the.
 
and you are shure about that right. I have read that, that is all I need to do but I am not shure. But yea if you can check on hte head you got. I am still looking every chance I get to find the answer.
 
and you are shure about that right. I have read that, that is all I need to do but I am not shure. But yea if you can check on hte head you got. I am still looking every chance I get to find the answer.

I looked at the head off my 96 for you last night and it appears the cam is slotted and tapped just like the 97-99 cams. This is assuming the kid I bought the car from didn't change them before I got it. I would just check your intake cam. If it is slotted and drilled on the opposite side from the cam gear then you are good to go. Just bolt up the 98 cas like you normally would on any 98 engine. That way you don't have to invert any wiring or change around your spark plug wires. The simplest approach is almost always the best. :thumb:
 
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