A couple of QUESTions...

[Raidered_GST]

1997 GST

So im in the process of bringing the looks of my car down and im removing almost ALL of the exterior extras that i Dont want.



So while im doing this i want to put in stuff thatll be worth the weight.

My questions are:

Clutch- I need to replace it in about another month.

I cant afford to spend more than $350 on one. What do you guys suggest?

This car is my DD and i like to step on it when i can. keep in mind the only mods i have are 3" exhaust and Down pipe. and an Evo III Turbo

Ive been looking at these Clutch kits but dont really know which to go with. And please dont tell me " You Get What You Pay For"


ACT 2100 Clutch Kit for the Mitsubishi Eclipse - DSMtuners.com


RPS Turbo Sport Clutch Kits for the Mitsubishi Eclipse - DSMtuners.com


Number One Gravity Clutch Kit for the Mitsubishi Eclipse - DSMtuners.com


Fidanza Two Point One Clutch for the Mitsubishi Eclipse - DSMtuners.com

Centerforce Clutch for the Mitsubishi Eclipse - DSMtuners.com




2nd question i have

2-Step - I also want to add one to my car.

Anybody know what Brand to go with, What all id need and How it would perform?



3rd

I have this Apexi S-AFC Installed.

Apex'i S-AFC II for the Mitsubishi Eclipse - DSMtuners.com


Do I really need this?

What will it help me with?




This is my first DSM. So take it easy.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[zcoh2gdsm]

2 step is a feature programmed into the ecu when you get it tuned. it's not a part that you can buy or add on. the SAFC isnt doing much for you since you only have the exhaust and a 16g, it doesn't have any injectors to control cause the ones on your car are still stock im assuming. you dont really need it but it's nice to have if you want to toss in a set of slightly bigger injectors.

 

[Raidered_GST]

I forgot to mention that i do have 720 or 780cc injectors also. My mistake. This is how i bought the car. And these were all the mods i was told about the car.


And about the 2 step. I was talking about setting it up with a rev limiter. From what ive read thatd be the right way to dk it?

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

I forgot to mention that i do have 720 or 780cc injectors also. My mistake. This is how i bought the car. And these were all the mods i was told about the car.


And about the 2 step. I was talking about setting it up with a rev limiter. From what ive read thatd be the right way to dk it?

All a 2 step really is is 2 rev limiters hence 2 step the second one will engage when you have it in gear with the clutch in and rev it up to your set rpm's

And for the injectors if im not mistaken i believe you cant use biger than 660 injectors from what i remeber correct me if im wrong tho

 

[zcoh2gdsm]

All a 2 step really is is 2 rev limiters hence 2 step the second one will engage when you have it in gear with the clutch in and rev it up to your set rpm's

And for the injectors if im not mistaken i believe you cant use biger than 660 injectors from what i remeber correct me if im wrong tho

675cc but no one makes that size so yes 660, you can only adjust +/- 50% with an afc.

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

675cc but no one makes that size so yes 660, you can only adjust +/- 50% with an afc.

Thats what i thought, if i were you i would sell the safc and get Dsmlink if i were you man thats your best bet much better tuning and can do so much more with link over a safc

 

[Hitmachine101]

as for the clutch really depends on how much boost youll be eventually going with a fwd the act2100 kit should be able to hold 20 - 21 psi or so, my awd can hold 18psi all day long

if you plan on going more than that after tuning, then heavier is necessary, all the ones you listed are pretty much in the same category as the act 2100

the only thing to worry about with the act 2100 kit is that the springs have popd out on some of the guys in the disk, i read that a couple times and ended up going with a act 2100 pp a stock mitsu disk and stock mitsu TOB which i definatly recomend
Couldnt be happier with my set up, holding my 14b with no issues and is very driveable

 

[zcoh2gdsm]

as for the clutch really depends on how much boost youll be eventually going with a fwd the act2100 kit should be able to hold 20 - 21 psi or so, my awd can hold 18psi all day long

if you plan on going more than that after tuning, then heavier is necessary, all the ones you listed are pretty much in the same category as the act 2100

the only thing to worry about with the act 2100 kit is that the springs have popd out on some of the guys in the disk, i read that a couple times and ended up going with a act 2100 pp a stock mitsu disk and stock mitsu TOB which i definatly recomend
Couldnt be happier with my set up, holding my 14b with no issues and is very driveable

a clutch isn't rated on the psi it can drive at its rated on how much power it can transfer. Before buying a new clutch do a lot of research on sprung and unsprung, different brands, ect. i prefer Competition Clutch because i use their clutches in my STi and it grabs harder than my ACT did.

 

[NHerron]

In my observation a 2100 & 2600 clutch isn't that far in price and the 2600 has been proven for the max of the E16G. Especially in the DSM classifieds, you can find a 2600 for cheap with less than 300 miles, average once a week. IMO it's insane for the price of a brand new 2600, somewhere in the $500 neighborhood. Also, general consensus on what TOB to go with is OEM, NOT the ACT TOB. The ACT TOB aren't very ruggedly built and besides, ACT will tell you they are only complimentary.

The SAFC isn't bad, the injectors are kinda overkill for that turbo, no problem with that or anything and it leaves you room for a bigger turbo. DSMlink is really cool to have but with your setup you'll be fine with the SAFC.

I don't know if you know already but the SAFC basically lies to the OEM computer about airflow so it changes how much fuel to pulse, which is all because your running bigger injectors. The only cons with a SAFC is since how the SAFC works it causes the OEM computer to have aggressive ignition timing and can cause detonation which leads into why you absolutly need a wideband gauge.

The usual good & proven ones are the Innovate products such as the LC-1 / LM-1, or the AEM UEGO. It's just preference. I like the Innovate because it doesn't look all flashy like the UEGO, since I have a 3 gauge A pillar pod I worry about theft

Lastly, a real boost gauge should be the first mod since the OEM one isn't very accurate. The dash one is not a direct result of air pressure rather, it's just based off of what the MAF reports back in airflow. Besides that, it doesn't indicate PSI, just plus and minus marks I believe.

 

[1983gsp]

You can control bigger than 660's if you use a maf-t. Maf-t for the main adjustment and the safc for the fine tuning.

 

[Raidered_GST]

any idea to where i can find a new stock disc and tob?

Thanks for all the info so far guys.

I think I might go with the set up that hitmachine suggested for the clutch.

As for the 2-step i still would like to know more about. If it helps with burnouts im all for it. .

And about the injectors, I am running precision turbo engineering injectors Which in the 700 range there are only 780cc.

Idk how big injectors i can run on my car. So as i said before im going by what the previous owner told me.

Another thing. When i step on the gas after going a steady speed, it lags. Not sure if i need to tune my car, or if this is how turbo'd cars run?

Dont really want to go past 20 psi with the rest of my engine being stock.

But idk how much im pushing since the boost gauge that came on the car wasnt working. And the stock gauge doesnt really tell much as mentioned earlier.

 

[NHerron]

Does the car have an MBC? This is a device that is placed between the turbo's wastegate pressure signal and intake manifold line, to control boost. Like this. Welcome to Hallman Boost Controllers

If not, the Evo316G wastegate opens around 12-14 psi and you might as well have the 14b and stock injectors. Yes the car sounds like it needs a tune. Does it have a boost controller ?

You can find the Mitsu TOB on extremepsi.com or, the dsm classifieds for a little cheaper.

If the car is tuned right and the turbo is up to higher boost, you could burn out all day FWD. That's a very good street turbo and getting rare.

 

[Raidered_GST]

Not sure if my car has an MBC installed.

Ill lift my car up tomorrow and try to get pictures of everything i can under the hood.

Hopefully pictures will help identify what i dont know.

And my car does have a boost controller. also apexi

 

[Raidered_GST]

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Turbo

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Timing side of oil pan. From what ive read im guessing i have a 7 bolt?

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Exhaust pipng

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[NHerron]

Assuming your car is the stock engine then yes its a seven bolt without even checking the pan. 7 bolt came standard around 92.5-99. 97 is a good year that's when they started to do revised thrust bearings, some have em some don't though. And the CAS gives it away too.

Your poor performance is most likely due to the bov not being recirculated which can cause a pig rich condition between shifts. Did the last guy say he tuned the safc for the larger injectors? MBC is manual boost controller, like a dial you adjust that goes to the turbos wastegate, you said it has one? Any idea what kinda boost its set to?

Other than that looks like a nice setup you got there