Broken oil return line? Pics!

[treckin]

So, I thought that the 14b was burning oil, but a rather close inspection of the underside of the DSMER, plus a few boost pulls with a chase car (Ford Windstar FTMFW!), returned the following conclusions:

1: My 1g runs RICH RICH RICH even with the boost up to 13-14 psi (stock was 7). This was evidenced by black, sooty smoke out tailpipe on a few pulls.

2: I was burning off a crap load of oil on the underside of the car. This conclusion came from blueish smoke from the entire backside of the vehicle under boost, as well as visual observation of the undercarriage while on jacks.

3: A MKIII Supra turbo (CT26) is ####ing HUGE compared to a 14b, as made clear in this picture:

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Ok, so that settled, this is my hypothesis:

I found a rip, pretty substantial, in the stock oil return line from the turbo... this was causing a sprey under high oil pressure (boost) which was burning off horribly on the DP and cat.

Does that sound plausible?

With that said, are there any opinions as to return-line kits available online?
I prefer to use ExtremePSI.com, because of their impeccable service and well-organized website. They have 2 options available:

A rubber hose kit with 10-AN lines which bolts to the stock locations, as well as a stainless kit that does the same....

Does anyone have any opinions otherwise, for other kits, or to support or negate either of these products?

 

[need2boostpsi]

yeah that is possible, there are several different companies i recommend, extremepsi.com is one of them, be careful as some return lines are" weld in bung". if you wanna go OEM i have New return line, that i was going to use that i would let go for cheap, just PM if your interested.

 

[SnowBird]

A rip? Was it at the flex section? A good fix is to cut out the flex section, and then grind down the lips left over on the pipes and replace the metal flex section with a high grade rubber hose with clamps. Voila, no more leaks and now the damn pipe isnt so hard to bolt to the oil pan anymore.

 

[MrBoxx]

I recommend the rubber Push-lok hose, for several reasons:

1: It's cheaper.

2: SS line really hurts when you stab yourself with a sliver of steel.

3: SS fittings are sometime a bi*** to assemble.

4. They send you a foot of line. The actual distance between the assembled fittings will end up being less than four inches, but it'll be at nearly a 75* angle. It's almost impossible to successfully bend -10AN line at that angle without it buckling. When I installed my M-trim, I had nothing but problems with the SS line and fittings, so i sucked it up and ordered the Push-Lok kit. The job went much easier.

 

[95redturboawd]

A rip? Was it at the flex section? A good fix is to cut out the flex section, and then grind down the lips left over on the pipes and replace the metal flex section with a high grade rubber hose with clamps. Voila, no more leaks and now the damn pipe isnt so hard to bolt to the oil pan anymore.

That's what I'm doing. The line just wasn't long enough to reach without cutting out the flex section.

 

[Burtismaximus]

i did everything in my car ss line besides the coolant lines . i got the ss line from the pump to the rail. ss line clutch line (my buddy helped me do that one it was a pain to weld in a flare to the fitting.) ss lines for the oil lines to the turbos and i love it looks awesome and no leaks .

 

[SnowBird]

That's what I'm doing. The line just wasn't long enough to reach without cutting out the flex section.

Right? Ive had a couple pipes that just seemed too short, I had to push the hell out of it and use the bolts to pull it where it needs to go. No wonder it leaked.

 

[need2boostpsi]

I recommend the rubber Push-lok hose, for several reasons:

1: It's cheaper.

2: SS line really hurts when you stab yourself with a sliver of steel.

3: SS fittings are sometime a bi*** to assemble.

4. They send you a foot of line. The actual distance between the assembled fittings will end up being less than four inches, but it'll be at nearly a 75* angle. It's almost impossible to successfully bend -10AN line at that angle without it buckling. When I installed my M-trim, I had nothing but problems with the SS line and fittings, so i sucked it up and ordered the Push-Lok kit. The job went much easier.

I also recommend the push-lock, much more flexible and a lot easier to work with.

 

[Flash]

I recommend the rubber Push-lok hose, for several reasons:

1: It's cheaper.

2: SS line really hurts when you stab yourself with a sliver of steel.

3: SS fittings are sometime a bi*** to assemble.

4. They send you a foot of line. The actual distance between the assembled fittings will end up being less than four inches, but it'll be at nearly a 75* angle. It's almost impossible to successfully bend -10AN line at that angle without it buckling. When I installed my M-trim, I had nothing but problems with the SS line and fittings, so i sucked it up and ordered the Push-Lok kit. The job went much easier.

I recommend the Earl's pro-lite hose. You can cut it with scissors and it won't cut your hands. I got sick of the SS crap and spent the extra money to convert all my lines to the pro-lite. After you assemble line and hose a few times it isn't that bad to assemble.

 

[treckin]

Edit : yes, the rip was in the "flex" section... What a horrible design, all it did was weaken the integrity of a critical engine component...

Wow, thanks all. I have to say, im over at the 'other dsm forum' (talk), and this forum is always WAY more helpful.

On topic:

I have looked at the SS kit, and it does look bitchen! I have wondered though, how are you supposed to attach the plain hose to the -AN fittings? What mechanism does that? Is that the PITA that everyone is citing?

On the rubber pushlok - How does that do the same? What connects the hose to the fittings? Is there a danger of the hose melting or becoming brittle running so close to the turbine housing and DP?

To the above member with the OEM unit: I will let you know ASAP on friday; I get paid, and if my check will cover the bills + some I will go ahead an PM you.

Thanks!

 

[JusMX141]

All you have to do is cut the flex section out of the OEM oil drain leaving a little bit of the weld on each side as a sealing bead. then go to your local parts store and buy 4" of 5/8" silicone heater hose and two clamps.

Put the silicone hose in place of the OEM flex, and it will never let you down again. Total cost of the repair, $3.50.

 

[MrBoxx]

I have looked at the SS kit, and it does look bitchen! I have wondered though, how are you supposed to attach the plain hose to the -AN fittings? What mechanism does that? Is that the PITA that everyone is citing?

On the rubber pushlok - How does that do the same? What connects the hose to the fittings? Is there a danger of the hose melting or becoming brittle running so close to the turbine housing and DP?

The SS line is held in place by the compression of two fittings, one that goes over the end of the hose on the outside and one that has a sleeve that goes inside the hose, but threads onto the outer fitting. It's kind of a pain.

The Push Lock style is simply that. You push the hose onto a barbed SS fitting, and you're done.

 

[SnowBird]

All you have to do is cut the flex section out of the OEM oil drain leaving a little bit of the weld on each side as a sealing bead. then go to your local parts store and buy 4" of 5/8" silicone heater hose and two clamps.

Put the silicone hose in place of the OEM flex, and it will never let you down again. Total cost of the repair, $3.50.

Yeah, thats exactly what Im talkin about, grind down the welds a little bit so they arent so pronounced and slap a hose over it. Then later on you can pull the turbo without dumpin a bunch of oil everytime.

 

[BeatupVR4]

It's a crappy picture but like this.

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It's been used on a few different cars over the past 5 years and has been leak proof since day one. It's the old Aeroquip socketless stuff.