Broken CAS connector -Need temporary solution

[codym]

My CAS connector is old and cracked , pin 3 (rpm signal) is sunk in.

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I've been having issues with the tach jumping , and misfire.

Is there a temporary fix to getting my CAS connected properly? I just need some way to get the rpm signal continuous because it keeps cutting out.

I ordered a new pigtail but this is my daily and I don't feel comfortable driving it around as is until the new connector arrives.

 

[97gsxIA]

Short of dicing up your wires, there will be no solution except for replacing the pigtail.

 

[TSiAWD666]

You can buy small crimp on connectors that might be the right size for the pins. If you can find some you can crimp them onto the wires and slide them over the pins one by one to get you by, assuming there is no tention on the wires to pull the connectors off. I've done this in a pinch before.

 

[codym]

Ahh Okay so if I understand you correctly basically just eliminate the connector with crimps.
Could I solder the wire side of the crimp to make it a bit more secure , or is that unnecessary.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Personaly I prefer to solder things if possible

As something Very Temporary, Till you could replace the connector this (What Basicly TSiAWD666was sayings) would work. In a pinch...

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[Steve93Talon]

You could try crushing the tips a bit so they bite better, then zip tie the connector to the CAS body.

 

[codym]

Personaly I prefer to solder things if possible

Same here , I'm waiting on a ride to go look for some of those crimp wires, I'll check back in to see how it works here in a bit.

Thanks for all the input guys.


Update :
I was unable to find any spade lugs in town with the wire already attached , so I was forced to make my own.

Soldered the spade end for peace of mind and heat shrunk everything.
These were the smallest ones I could find , and it looks like it's gonna be a tight fit so I heat shrunk the end of the spade to prevent the ends of the connections from contacting eachother , that wouldn't be good...

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I ran out of daylight so I'll test fit these to make sure all 4 will fit in the morning, and update with some wiring photos and results after work.

 

[codym]

Well, those didn't fit.

I'm out of options at this point , so I'm just going to have to wait on the new sensor and pigtail.

 

[serviceguy]

Why not just take the pins out of the connector, it's toast anyway, heastshrink them and plug them individually on the CAS? Once you get a spare shell you can just plug them in that one. Unless the wires are broken...that is what I've done with those connectors with good wires/pin and a bad shell.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I would say if you can get the pin back to being set right, put rev into the other side of the pigtail to get everything set in place until you can replace the connector.

 

[codym]

I snipped off the connecter already when I attempted to use those connectors , I get them all on but when I started it up, my idle was at 300 and it was missing.

I'm not sure if the CAS is bad , but I ordered a green top with a pigtail just to make sure. $250 for a new OEM CAS is a little out of my budget at the moment.

I think I'm just gonna be forced to wait it out , I don't wanna jack anything up.

 

[bryanwheat]

With a broken connector you can usually put a few dabs of rtv on the outside of the plug on the cas than plug the connector into it. Once the rtv dried the plug will firmly stay there until pryed off.

 

[DSM_Aruba]

Magnus just posted this on their Facebook. I think there's a CAS connector in the kit.

Magnus Connector Repair Kit DSM 1G-2G and EVO 1-3 | Magnus Motorsports

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[brads]

The CAS is in that picture, bottom row on the left. The terminals and seals for it are right next to it.

Soldering on mismatching pigtails seems like a bad idea. The solder part of that idea is bad, the wrong terminal part of it is bad too.

At the very least, reusing the existing terminal like serviceguy mentioned would be the best way to make a temporary fix. I've seen DSMers using them this way for a fairly long time without an issue. Just make sure to support the wiring somehow, so that the terminals are not being pulled at all. Remember that the housing has the latching strength that really holds things together, the terminals have almost no holding capacity. So you'd need to attach your harness somewhere nearby, so it doesn't get pulled at all.