2G Broke valve cover.

[kenamond]

While I was doing all of my mods I decided to fix the annoying valve cover leak.

I had everything torqued down to spec except the last bolt (next to the #1 spark plug). I was torqueing down this last bolt and heard a "CRACK" and saw that the cover had broken. After cussing up a storm, I decided to continue torqueing it down with the intention of just JB welding the crack. So then it cracks again, and a whole piece of metal came loose (the metal surrounding the bolt hole came off in 2 pieces). After cussing up another storm, I headed to my computer and ordered a new 1G valve cover from slowboy.

I suspect that the #1 spark plug hole gasket shifted out of its socket when I placed the cover on the head. I had put 2 dots of RTV on either side of the spark plug hole to hold it in place, but I didn't put any under the part where the bolt passes through, so maybe that part shifted.

Any suggestions on a sure fire way to get the brand new one on without trashing another $270 (and throwing a torque wrench across the garage)? I could put RTV under the whole gasket set, but I don't trust that that will hold it in place, but I don't think I can let the RTV set up when it's not properly smashed between the cover and head at the proper torque specs.

 

[Attack Eagle]

a thin bead of "the right stuff" around all the gaskets will hold them in place... and it will never ever leak.

I think I used 3+ passes to finally get the torque to specs as well instead of just torquing to specs on the first pass when I pulled mine for painting and put it back on.
first pass snug, second pass, snugger, 3rd pass spec, 4th pass spec again working in a criss cross pattern from the inside center on out.

Also aren't the specs in in/lbs not foot lbs?

 

[BeatupVR4]

Usually the gasket sits in tight in the valve cover and doesn't go anywhere. At least that's what it has always done to me.

 

[Attack Eagle]

agreed, but the spark plug "o rings" always fall out on me... usually as I am putting it on the head.

Last time I decided the OEM gasket to head was a poor design (after replacing it again to try and get rid of the normal leak), since in evitably the corner squishes outwards.
I didn't have money to replace it yet again and again, so I reused it and I smeared a little "the right stuff" on the head mating surfaces, and on the "o rings" and lower part of the gasket to hold them in place.

Since then I have never gotten the front corner seepage that I would always get before.

 

[GIZMO]

I had a similar problem a few times with a torque wrench. What might help and has never cause me problems is just hand tightening the bolt with an extension and then going maybe another 1/4 turn.

I believe the torque setting for those bolts is only like 8lbs and that is real easy to go over with a torque wrench

 

[kenamond]

Thanks! I'll look into getting "the right stuff" - I don't want to do this again (both the $270 than the time - especially to clean the RTV off of the gasket set before it sets up - gawd, that's frustrating to do that tedious work after you total a part).

I was using in-lbs, and I was torqueing them up gradually (maybe 4 passes inside to outside like a typical head bolt pattern), but when I got to that last bolt, I did notice that it wasn't hitting the spec torque as fast as the others in the final step...and then "CRACK!"

I did notice that the outer gasket would bulge up a bit between bolt holes. I put a dab of RTV every so often to help out, but it would still sag a bit between the dabs. I was being sparing on the RTV just to keep the mess down (my engine bay is black/silver, so the blue doesn't match ) Serves me right

My old valve cover was ugly anyway (some idiot told me to spray some new engine cleaner on it when it was like 2 months old, and it stained the cover - tried everything to clean it up to no avail), so I atleast have a nice new shiney one now.

Thanks for the help!