Broke shift fork

[JonCgst]

Been having trouble eversince I put in a stage 4 clutch I looked on some of the tech forums and found out I proly needed an extension rod for the slave so I got that still had the same problem then I read to adjust underneath the pedal so I adjusted that and started to get worse I couldnt even start the car had to jump it directly to the starter so I have the car on and I'm about two blocks away and start having trouble putting the car in gear then snap the pedal goes all the way to the floor. I open the hood and see the extension rod and boot on the floor next to the broken off shift fork. So my question is it seems apparently the slave and master were working the whole time so I was reading that if the flywheel was resurfaced not to spec that it could cause this problem and I would have to shim out the pivot ball I just thought I would ask some ppl on here what they would do from here on because its getting pretty frustrating trying to figure out the problem. Just wanted to know if that should be my next step

Thanks,
Johnny

 

[dsm-onster]

You have epitomized the reason why extending the slave rod should be the last thing you do!!! don't sweat it. A bone yard will let them go for cheap. Make sure one you get is straight.

Extending the slave rod causes the fork to "bump" the bell housing. Thank your lucky stars that you havn't cracked the housing like I've seen. The lesser result woudl be a blown master or slave cylinder as the fork will not move past the square it is in and somethings gotta give!!!

So the throwout geometry still has to be modified. What I did. . .When the pressure plate has issues disingaging the clutch, I first shim the fulcrum or the pivot ball in the bell housing. I did this w/ GREAT success. No clutch fork smacking on bell housing. Then if the problem still persists, even adjusting the master rod all the way out; I look at extending the slave rod. Since the pivot ball is closer to the drivers side, it is less likely that you will need a slave rod long enough to cause the clutch fork to smack into the bell housing. . .

P.S. Do you have a sprung hub clutch. It is possible that your clutch has lost a spring and flung it between the pp surface and the pp housing preventing disengagement. This would cause the fork to break as the pp diafragm will not move. This has happened w/ every single sprung hub dick I've purcahsed. I bent a fork once. but, never broke one.

 

[JonCgst]

Thanks for the info bro