The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

BOV not opening

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

HPfreak

15+ Year Contributor
44
0
Jan 24, 2006
Jackson, New Jersey
Hi, i have a 95 eclipse 420a turbo but the BOV (Greddy Type RSII) when i first put it in, it wouldnt open at all and i would get compressor surge from the turbo. So what i did was, i opened the BOV and took out one of the springs (the inner one) and put it back together. After i did that, when i reved the motor the BOV opened but i dont know if i should have done that or would the valve open up now prematurely when i hit like 7-8psi. This was done just revving the car in neutral and my boost gauge maby went up to 1psi at redline. What should i do? Is removing the spring ok? Thanks for all your help?
 
i had the same problem but i didnt take it apart and remove the spring i also had a greddy type rsII until i couldnt find any info on it and realized it was a knock-off i dont believe that greddy makes a type rsII. but correct me if im wrong.so im going with a 1G bov
 
I have the same problem with my type-s, it doesn't open anymore and just causes compressor surge.
I even took it apart and did the single spring mod and made sure everything sealed nice and tight when I put it together and it didn't do anything....hopefully I will be more happy with the forge bov thats coming in mail now.
 
Make sure the vacuum line that goes from the IM to the BOV is attached and that there are no leaks in it. The best way to check is by doing a boost leak test.

I'm not very familiar with the Greddy BOV but if it is a piston type valve (as opposed to a diaphragm) then make sure that the piston is greased.

If there is proper vacuum getting to it and it is adjusted properly then the valve should be open when the car is idling. You can check by removing the recirculation hose at idle and looking at it. Many guys tend to err on the side of adjusting the tensioning screw too tightly (on those BOV's that have one).
 
Any ideas where i should be looking for boost leaks .... i know all the piping and couplers are tight and sealed
 
Also, i was thinking that maby the vaccume line going to the BOV isnt producing a strong enough suction for the BOV to open....Thanks
 
When the car is idling the piston is closed for some reason. The BOV is a piston type but when i took it appart .... it didnt seem as though the piston was sticking at all .... it was moving pretty freely actually. Now if i were to hook up a vacume gauge to the line going to the bov how much vacume should i be reading .... im assuming the same that shows on my boost gauge at idle. Am i correct by assuming this?
 
When the car is idling the piston is closed for some reason. The BOV is a piston type but when i took it appart .... it didnt seem as though the piston was sticking at all .... it was moving pretty freely actually. Now if i were to hook up a vacume gauge to the line going to the bov how much vacume should i be reading .... im assuming the same that shows on my boost gauge at idle. Am i correct by assuming this?[/QUOTE]
That's correct. Try removing the vacuum line from the BOV while the car is idling and using your thumb to check to see if you are even getting any vacuum there.

How much vacuum are showing at idle?
 
At idle the boost gause shows about 15psi ... the line doesnt feel like 15 psi ... maby i should try running another line with a larger inner diameter
 
At idle the boost gause shows about 15psi ... the line doesnt feel like 15 psi ... maby i should try running another line with a larger inner diameter

15 inHg is a bit low but I don't think it's low enough to be causing you're issue. Unfortunately, I don't think going to a larger hose will affect the vacuum level inside the hose (it may even lower it a bit but I'm not positive).

If you have some excess vacuum hose laying around it's easy enough to switch it out and see if that remedies the problem.

But the best way would still be to do a boost leak test. That will also allow you to check for leaks at the adjustment screw.

If you need a quick fix and can't do the above I suppose you could also go the "old fashion" way and spray some carb cleaner on the hose, adjustment screw, etc. and listen for the idle drop.
 
rich3389,

When you get the valve take a look at the bottom side of the flange, there should be a small metal ring that holds the valve body to the flange. There will be two small holes in this ring, they will either pass all the way through the ring or just part way, if they are drilled all the way through drop me a pm or give us a call at 407.447.5363 so we can send you a replacement. The original design was a source of a leak.
 
rich3389,

When you get the valve take a look at the bottom side of the flange, there should be a small metal ring that holds the valve body to the flange. There will be two small holes in this ring, they will either pass all the way through the ring or just part way, if they are drilled all the way through drop me a pm or give us a call at 407.447.5363 so we can send you a replacement. The original design was a source of a leak.

Oh my Forge BOV works very well I am impressed with it, the BOV problems I was having was with a greddy.
 
I know this thread is a bit old but i am having problems with my 1g bov. I recently installed a dejontool L-pipe to replace the stock flat piece i had and installed the 1g bov on it (recirculating). I triple checked everything was connected right and tight and it was all good. I take the car out for a few spins and all i hear is fluttering, wether it be at low throttle or wot. At wot it sounds like a tial bov when i shift but i dont think a 1g is supposed to sound like this recirced. My friend has a 97 tsi awd which had this 1g bov on his hard upper ic pipe too and he had the woosh effect and mine has the "wanna-be tial" LOL. Last night i checked to see if the bov was opening and it did, made the woosh noise in idle when he revved it. I dont know whats going on ? Im thinking i should just take my car to a muffler shop and have them fab up a custom 1 piece hard ic pipe and weld my evo8 mr bov on it and call it all a day for once. Thanks for any help
 
Did you use RTV on the gasket, if you did, I bet you filled the little "anti-surge" hole on the bov flange.
If that is filled the bov with flutter or surge.
 
If your BOV is adjustable then adjust it to the soft side. 15 inHG is considered normal from what I read @ 750 RPM give or take some.

If you have another BOV anywhere, use that and for sure like what whoever said to check the BOV line for vacuum do that as well.
 
Rich i didnt use a gasket at all cause the company didnt even send me one, how cheap of them. I went to autozone and got me some gasket makin sealant and sealed it up like that, most likely i also sealed the little anti-surge hole. I am going to order a new 1g bov gasket this week, should i apply little rtv on it or what other material do you recommend ?
 
Dont use any RTV type sealant. Just make shure both the BOV and the Hard pipe Flange, you installed are Smooth and Flat..

Best way to make a gasket work correctly is Prep the surface it must seal against.
2000 grit wet sandpaper is best for this. You WILL see any inperfections in the sealing surface. Fix Them!
Perfectly Flat! and Smooth. Give it NO reason to leak!

DougR :talon:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top