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Davids97Eclipse

10+ Year Contributor
54
0
Apr 4, 2011
Aurora, Colorado
When I give the car throttle slowly the car will go into boost but if i push on the throttle rapidly of immedietly the car will hit a wall of boost. meaning the turbo will spool but my car won't go anywhere

I've made sure there is no boost leaks?! what could this be thanks Dave
 
sounds typical, the reasons i went stand alone before even having a turbo larger than a 16g was because of that same thing, it's just inconsistancy in the mapping based on variables from the sensors and what the ECU chooses to give you for timing and fuel under those conditions

You can make 5 WOT pulls in exact conditions as if back to back to back without the heat buildup, yewt usually only 2-3 of those will feel good then the rest will feel like you're towing a full size dodge truck with locked up brakes because the boost is reading normal but the car is barely getting out of it's own way......To put it simply, when you are seeing boost but it doestn' feel like the car is making any power, the reason is that the timing is being pulled back by retarded amounts, (which the DSM is known to do even on it's best day). And the times when it does feel good it's actually advancing close enough to the stock timing map you commonly see posted to where it can make a bit of power

When you step into the gas fast, oem ECU or not, the things like piston slap, and clearnances in the trans and driveline taking up and transferring vibration to the engine block where the knock sensor picks it up as a false knock and pulls timing from the final mapping. Also it will pull timing based on coolant temps, air intake temps, and many other reasons based on it's paraticular "mood", i've seen this on every 2g car iu've been in but the 1g ECU SEEMS TO BE a lot more liberal with delivering performance more consistantly . did i mention i hate the stock ECU????/

I seriousely had switched to a standalone Haltech E6k before 17k miles on the car, all i had for mods back then were some 550's, wally 255 from a mustang, FMIC, B16g with a stock down pipe and 02 housing with a Thermal catback and test pipe with a 1g BOV and K&N FIPK. Just those few mods, but having a REAL form of control over what the engine would do consitantly everytime i pushed the throttle made it one of the fastest cars in the area for quite a long time, it really confused the hell out of people and between my car and jason perrish's chevy truck started the mystique and intrigue into cars with programmable EFI in this area as far as the masses of younger peoiple that gathered aT THE local car spots wre concerned

The new DSMlink V3 is the only thing that makes a car with a stock ECU in it worth driving any further than for groveries in my opinion (well htere's the flashing mods that allow you great control too, but as far as thing syou can just buy and install the ECMlink really saves my opinion of a DSM that hasn't had the OBD-II compliant crap ECU chucked out the window LOL
 
*** I realize this is an older thread, but I found it via searching, so I figured for future searches it would be better to post here, with my issue, then start a new thread ***

I'm also wondering this, as my car does this same thing (will make full boost, but doesn't accelerate any faster). My car mostly does it when I first drive the car (even if it's up to temp)...
 
Do you have a boost leak tester. i would hook that up on the car. you can make a boost leak tester for cheap. hope the vids help :thumb:

[ame=http://youtu.be/u3Kqh52PC6Q]Boost Leak Testing 101: Building the tool. - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://youtu.be/fdjadhUP1u4]Boost Leak Testing 201: Using the tool. - YouTube[/ame]
 
Check for boost leaks but if you are wanting to really solve the problem go dsmlink v3 or standalone. I am going with V3 and my friends that use it are getting some great results. I am building a 1g now and will not even consider running the car without V3 light or full. Just my thoughts.
 
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