boost problem

[Saturdee]

When I start my car up cold and go to accelerate (not wot) I can hear my turbo and my stock guage is saying it's building boost, but if feels like it's hesitating and i'm not getting any power from it, unless I really get into the throttle then it takes off. It only does this once it's cold, when it warms up it's completely fine. If it's a boost leak, does anyone have an idea of where it could be? I have no boost leak tester so I couldn't just go do one.

 

[Absit]

It could be some random rubber hose has a small crack and when cold air escapes, but the rubber expands when it warms up and seals enough to not be an issue.

Given the number of random rubber hoses a DSM has, I can't help you unless you help yourself. Build a boost leak tester.

 

[Saturdee]

I was thinking about buying a Boost Pro tester, but I don't have a air compressor. I know it may be a hassle, but couldn't I use a hand pump? Plus it would be easier to hear the leaks I would assume.

 

[e30_fiend]

Yes you can use a bike pump. If you have a big leak, the bike pump will be hard to keep sufficient pressure

 

[Absit]

Yes you can use a bike pump. If you have anything larger than a hairline leak, the bike pump will not even come close to reaching sufficient pressure

Fixed it for you.

Build your own, it'll cost something like $10 and 20 minutes. You'll likely need an air compressor though, or an air tank. See if you can rent one, or find a friend. And no, those $20 12v compressors won't work either.

 

[gsx7707]

Your car will not run properly until it is up to normal operating temp.Always warm it up before running it hard.the ecu needs to see 180 degrees.

 

[Saturdee]

Okay I'll look up how to make one. I forgot to mention I do have the P1105 fuel pressure solenoid code, would that have anything to do with it?

Your car will not run properly until it is up to normal operating temp.Always warm it up before running it hard.the ecu needs to see 180 degrees.

I never run it hard when it's cold, it does it when I'm just accelerating normally.

 

[Absit]

Shouldn't, the FPR Solenoid's job is to richen the mixture on a hot start. Either way you need to fix it.

 

[Saturdee]

Shouldn't, the FPR Solenoid's job is to richen the mixture on a hot start. Either way you need to fix it.

I was just looking around at some other posts, and some people say that the solenoid isn't even needed and you can just bypass it and be fine. If I decided to do that, and disconnected it, would it still throw a CEL?

 

[Absit]

Some people report it throwing a CEL, others don't. Why don't you just fix it?

 

[BurrowZ]

Regardless of the fact that you don't accelerate hard it will still be much much slower and feel like a 5000lb Honda until the engine reaches higher operating temperature (about 200 for mine). It might be unrelated to your CEL altogether.

The past couple days have been the coldest of the year, and the cold ALWAYS makes cars do weird things. You might find your CD player doesn't work, your courtesy lights stop working or even that your car simply acts like there is no battery inside. Just let it warm up and see if that works

 

[Saturdee]

Some people report it throwing a CEL, others don't. Why don't you just fix it?

I will. Now that I think about it, I'd be more comfortable just fixing it rather than ignoring it.

Back to boost leaks, If I did a boost leak test and fixed the leaks, would that also fix any vacuum leaks I would have?

 

[Absit]

Yes. In a naturally aspirated car the same test would be called a vacuum leak test.

 

[Saturdee]

Okay good, cause my car has a low idle too, around 500, so I'm thinking if I can just get a boost leak test done and fix what needs to be fixed and kill two birds with one stone.

Thanks a lot guys, sorry for the dumb questions

 

[Absit]

Bacuum leaks tend to cause high idle, not low idle (vacuum leak means unmetered air is sucked in to the intake, boost leak means metered air is blown out of the intake). Is your BISS set properly?

 

[Saturdee]

Bacuum leaks tend to cause high idle, not low idle (vacuum leak means unmetered air is sucked in to the intake, boost leak means metered air is blown out of the intake). Is your BISS set properly?

I was thinking about adjusting that too, but according to vfaq you have to have a scan tool I don't have the slightest idea of how to use one. Is there any way I could adjust it properly without having to use that?

 

[LiquidX]

1. You can bypass the FPS just fine. Keep the solenoid plugged in otherwise you will throw a code.

2. A hand pump or a bike pump will not build pressure up quick enough for you to diagnose where tr leak is coming from. Not all leaks make noise and it's vital to use a spray bottle of soapy water to locate where the air is leaking from by looking for bubbles to form.

3. Well to do it properly you need to ground the diagnostic pin. You can either (A) check the coils on the ICS to make sure it's working proerly and (B) just turn the BISS out a little to raise the idle up.

 

[Saturdee]

3. Well to do it properly you need to ground the diagnostic pin. You can either (A) check the coils on the ICS to make sure it's working proerly and (B) just turn the BISS out a little to raise the idle up.

Okay I turned it counterclockwise about a quarter of a turn. I noticed when I turned it, it was already very loose, is it supposed to be like that?

 

[Absit]

Okay I turned it counterclockwise about a quarter of a turn. I noticed when I turned it, it was already very loose, is it supposed to be like that?

No, pull it out and see if there's even an oring on it, chances are the oring is either gone or rock hard, replace it.

 

[Saturdee]

No, pull it out and see if there's even an oring on it, chances are the oring is either gone or rock hard, replace it.

Could that be a potential boost leak?