Boost leaks in Odd Places

[oldman]

i actually ordered the shaft seals from mach v but i talked to a tech at mitsu and he says the throttle bodies are not supposed to be worked on what so ever for any reason and thats why they sell the whole throttle body as one unit from the dealership... i checked out the shaft seal uninstall install directions and it talks about the throttle shaft screws that are loc tighted in...if you strip one of those screws you are SCREWED.... thats why i am hesitant to installing them... its a very very minor boost leak when i pump 10 psi in my pipes from the turbo inlet but it definitely wont hold pressure in the pipes it will drop from that leak.... let me know how the install on those shaft seals goes...pm or post...
thanks in advance...

Typical Mitsu respones to make more money just like buying a $250 controller arm when you can pick up a ball joint for $30. This procedure has been done many times over so don't be afraid, just make sure you're using the right size screw driver for the throttle plate screws. Good luck.

 

[EclipseGST-95]

ive had the seals for quite some time now and im still wondering if its worth it... it leaks around the throttle body really slow... its like an almost silent hiss... would i see a difference in performance if its not leaking very badly?..

 

[BlknBlue2G]

OK oldman, I replaced the throttle body shaft seals. Not too difficult of a task as long as you can get some new screws, I destroyed the ones that came out. Also the thread pitch I used was M4X.7 as opposed to MX.75 as indicated in the vfaq.

http://www.ca.dsm.org/faq/tb-shaftseals.html

So the next leak I found was from the BOV. My type S is leaking from the adjustment screw now and the rear fitting. My teflon tape it in my toolbox at work so after I get it I am guessing there is nothing left to do but run the car and see if I get oil in the lower intercooler pipe and to see if it still smokes. I am going to try driving it and then do another compression test to verify my earlier results.

 

[oldman]

OK oldman, I replaced the throttle body shaft seals. Not too difficult of a task as long as you can get some new screws, I destroyed the ones that came out. Also the thread pitch I used was M4X.7 as opposed to MX.75 as indicated in the vfaq.

http://www.ca.dsm.org/faq/tb-shaftseals.html

So the next leak I found was from the BOV. My type S is leaking from the adjustment screw now and the rear fitting. My teflon tape it in my toolbox at work so after I get it I am guessing there is nothing left to do but run the car and see if I get oil in the lower intercooler pipe and to see if it still smokes. I am going to try driving it and then do another compression test to verify my earlier results.

Have you confirm why you're leaking into the crankcase yet? I went back and re-read our conversation and I'm not too sure what your conclusion is.

 

[BlknBlue2G]

I was thinking that it was leaking through the turbo seal. You had said before that:

"Bubbling though the oil cap has nothing to do with coolant, it's air passing though the turbo seal => oil return line => oil pan, reason why step two is to move the tester to TB elbow to see if leaking into the crankcase stops. Like it has been mentioned many times in this thread, this is OK as long as the seal is not leaking during operation which you're so it can definitely be the turbo seal."

But I never did test at the TB after all of the leaks were fixed up there. I am going to do that right now.

 

[BlknBlue2G]

Well there is still leaking when testing at the throttle body. About 1 psi every 2-3 seconds. No leaks from the TB, manifold to head, and injectors and there is still bubbling under the valve cover.

 

[oldman]

Well there is still leaking when testing at the throttle body. About 1 psi every 2-3 seconds. No leaks from the TB, manifold to head, and injectors and there is still bubbling under the valve cover.

1. Let's re-group a little: How much psi at compressor inlet? How much at TB elbow?

2. Disable the pcv hose from intake manifold and repeat the TB test, observe not only for leaks under the valve cover but also boost level and holding time as well.

 

[BlknBlue2G]

With the PCV disabled I pressured up at the TB to about 17.

From 17 to 13 it decreased 1 psi/2 seconds
From 13 to 9 it decreased 1 psi/3.5 seconds
From 9 to 5 it decreased 1 psi/5 seconds

I could still hear the same amount of leaking in the crank case.

My leak detector is leaking though so all of my results are a little off. It leaks alot at high pressure and very little at lower pressure.

The results were very similar when pressurizing at the turbo inlet except that there is bubbling.

 

[BlknBlue2G]

So everything is back together even though my boost leak test is not complete. The car is now not smoking just smells like a little burnt oil. The only thing I can think of is that my clogged catch can was causing it. I still think that my valve seals are leaking and will be making another tester this weekend but my other car is over heating and needs a water pump so it is taking the garage over.

 

[oldman]

Sorry I have not been around much. The fact that there are still leaks into the crankcase with pcv disabled, slight smoking during operation and bubbling testing at turbo inlet indicates that there are probably some leaking at both valve seals and turbo seal. The clogged catch can can definitely be the cause of the problem. You're lucky that the pcv was still routed back to the IM or the extend of the damage would have been greater. You should be able to nurse your car for a while before you get the opportunity to get to the seals just make sure you monitor the oil level closely.

Let this be a lesson for anyone who is using a catch can, especially when both pcv and breather are re-routed to it, check your catch can regularly and replace the pcv with a straight fitting to ensure proper venting of the crankcase.

 

[mastadogg2]

my boosting issue awhile back wasnt what i thought, it was a clogged up exhaust hahaha here are some pictures of what it looked like.

heres what was clogged (wtf is this? packing from my old cat?)

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this is what it looked like inside

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heres what it was stuck in. where it got stuck the resonator went from a 3" dia to 2" so it got clogged and there was no other way of removing it except cutting pipe since other end of pipe had a 90 degree bend on it.

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after fixed:

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