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Boost Controller question.

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2GDSM-OWNER

10+ Year Contributor
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Aug 28, 2011
burlington, Wisconsin
Just bought a manual boost controller, and was wondering how to install it (do i need to do anything special or do i just plug it in and go?) , and what would happen if i up the boost and remove the boost controller. Will the boost stay the same? Like if i install the boost controller up the boost to 15 and then remove it, will it stay at 15 or go back to stock? Thanks!
 
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How to install it depends on the type of boost controller used. If you are using a ball and spring type controller (hallman, etc) then follow the instructions posted by Liquidx (and double posted by someone else). If it is a bleeder style (turbosmart, ebay) then follow these instructions: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/281518-how-install-turbosmart-tee-style-bleeder-style-mbc.html

How good are those types of boost controllers? personally never tried one...
 
Ball and spring work great. Never used a bleeder style. Ball and spring MBCs are so cheap to make it makes bleeder style ones and nearly any brand name MBC retarded. The only time you really need anything but a 10$ Ball and Spring MBC would be :

Your not hiding it and you want something that looks nice.

You want in cabin adjustment.
 
Wait. Im confused. But doesn't the hallman pro have a little hole on the side. Is that consider bleeder??? I really confused now.
Here's my thread

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/400235-hallman-pro-leak.html

Most ball and spring controllers have a small bleeder hole which allows the wastegate to close properly. This does not make them bleeder style controllers.

MBC-101

Then the boost signal rushes past the ball on its way to the Wastegate Actuator. The reason for that hole is to allow the "column" of charged air, or "boost signal", to drain or "bleed" out of the hose that sent the signal to the Wastegate Actuator. Without that hole, the charged air in the hose to the Wastegate Actuator would tend to "get trapped" and would slow the proper closing of the Wastegate. Technically, it is an inefficiency to allow some boost to escape, but it is a very small inefficiency that has a good trade-off. The inefficiency is relatively small so it really is not even worth mentioning… but that hole is a source of curiosity to many, so an explanation was warranted. Some ball-and-spring type controllers may not have such a hole and in those cases, the manufacturer may advise a small diameter "T" fitting or some other means of providing release hole.


This is from boostcontrollers.com vfaq about boost controllers.
http://www.belitski.com/cars/talonmods/turbo/vfaqhallman.html
 
The pinhole on the MBC is to relieve built up pressure in the vacuum line so as Nate said, so the wastegate can close. When not positive pressure is going against the ball and spring, it will stay closed (the ball and spring). Any built up pressure will stay in that line because it cannot escape hence why you need the small hole.

That is also the reason for when you do a boost leak test you bypass the boost controller because it is a boost leak.
 
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