Blown head gasket with no visible leaks?

[Rokien]

Heres the story..

The headgasket years ago was blown and the timing went out , so the head had to be restored, grinded and pressure tested.

Now. all of wich is now fixed, from idler pulleys, belts, valves, redone head, new gaskets, seals ect..

The car was running well for me after i drove it home from the shop. then later that day around 9:00pm i saw white smoke behind me.

Here is a video to show you, the car still runs and turns over, to which im happy for , but now it chugs on coolant; but only leaks out the exhaust.

I pulled out the plugs, and found only two of which had coolant in, but im sure thats because the other two cylinders had already drank some, there is also no coolant mixed with any of my oil as my pan checks out clean every time i dip my stick in to check for contaminants.

heres my link for the video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McMkoLr-X70]Talon coolant leak - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Rokien]

116$ for ARP head studs. 58.90$ for the felpro headgasket.

780$ for the dealership estimated 7 hour job I can do in 4.5H..

The leak is only on cyl 1 and cyl4 . So both ends of the block the two pistons 2 and 3 are clean of antifreeze
So im thinking something is warped...

Heres a pic of the block surface, the dents clear the piston walls so I didnt replace pistons.

 

[BogusSVO]

Post pics of the head!!

 

[Rokien]

I dont have the underside pics just overhead view for now. Ill post a pic when I end up taking it appart again.

Heres my kijiji ad online it has interior pics as well. The head is also shown.
1991 Eagle Talon TSI Coupe

I dont have the underside pics just overhead view for now. Ill post a pic when I end up taking it appart again.

Heres my kijiji ad online it has interior pics as well. The head is also shown.
1991 Eagle Talon TSI Coupe

 

[91-GS]

.008 is the combined total that can be removed from the head and block per the FSM

AERA, Automotive Engine Rebuilder Association, says .015 from the head.

Used to think it was "one side can not be lower/higher by this much, othervise machinig is needed", not "this is the most that can be milled/ground off". Or am i still confused?

Can a head/block be machined in 'regular' mill or does it require a special one? What about a precision grinder (where part is bolted to a table that moves left to right under a grinding wheel)? Or will the wheel give about as bad results as a belt?

Edit: Do head and block surfaces have to be as shiny as possible (polished) or is it it better to leave them a little rough?

 

[BogusSVO]

Used to think it was "one side can not be lower/higher by this much, othervise machinig is needed", not "this is the most that can be milled/ground off". Or am i still confused?

Can a head/block be machined in 'regular' mill or does it require a special one? What about a precision grinder (where part is bolted to a table that moves left to right under a grinding wheel)? Or will the wheel give about as bad results as a belt?

Edit: Do head and block surfaces have to be as shiny as possible (polished) or is it it better to leave them a little rough?

Higher/lower? Having the head milled on a taper is never good, It will make the combustion chamber on the thinner side smaller than the one on the thicker side, also that will tilt the index of the head bolt holes.

Every head has a min thickness spec, that is the point the head "should" be junked/scrapped. But in some builds the head is taken past that spec to raise compression.

What are you calling a regular mill? Like a bridgeport vertical mill? as long as the cuter head cuts fully across the surface in one pass, not leaving a "seam" you should be ok.

Some head surfacers do use a a grinding stone, they are wet segment stone grinders, Berco is a company that makes one, and can lay down a good surface if the spindle speed, and table travel are set correctly, along with having proper stones and they are dressed properly for the head being cut.

The surface finish needs to be correct for the head gasket that will be used. A MLS HG needs a much smoother finish than a composite.

The surface finish I leave on a cast iron head and cast iron block, like a SBC or Small Ford, is way to corse to be used on a 4g63 aluminum head and cast iron block.

 

[91-GS]

"Higher/lower" as in warped. Kinda hard to explain what i'm thinking so i'll shut up now and stop confusing everyone

Thanks for the good information, BogusSVO. I am trying to learn as much as possible about cars, so will probably have more questions as time goes on.

 

[Rokien]

Okay, so im now done my first year of tech schooling. I have now taken my head studs out. they are taken out with a 10mm Allen key. since my car is a 91 i know it needs the 6bolt studs since they are thicker than the 7bolt studs.

Now ive gone through the forums, and i couldnt find any part numbers that were specific to my needs! if i missed it somewhere please direct me there

I have also gone to ARP's website and the following link goes straight to their parts book, and i found what i think is correct; Page 43: 2nd from the bottom above nissan/datsun in the 'Mitsubishi' section i found a 2.0L (4G63) DOHC (1993 & earlier) M11.
With a part#: 407-4201

ARP-bolts.com | ARP Quick Catalog Viewer

as i searched through some forums i have seen mention of the L19 Studs for high heat engines, mine gets hot for a 2.0L tsi also my turbo runs 16 pounds of boost. i dont ever want to have to do this again so i want to make sure that i have the right part number and the perfect ARP studs.

now i know i talked about checking the surfaces for warpage, but i am confident they are not and if they are, well, ill just keep these fancy bolts and wait for a new block

thanks for taking the time to read and help me out!

 

[streetraceboi]

Okay, so im now done my first year of tech schooling. I have now taken my head studs out. they are taken out with a 10mm Allen key. since my car is a 91 i know it needs the 6bolt studs since they are thicker than the 7bolt studs.

Now ive gone through the forums, and i couldnt find any part numbers that were specific to my needs! if i missed it somewhere please direct me there

I have also gone to ARP's website and the following link goes straight to their parts book, and i found what i think is correct; Page 43: 2nd from the bottom above nissan/datsun in the 'Mitsubishi' section i found a 2.0L (4G63) DOHC (1993 & earlier) M11.
With a part#: 407-4201

ARP-bolts.com | ARP Quick Catalog Viewer

as i searched through some forums i have seen mention of the L19 Studs for high heat engines, mine gets hot for a 2.0L tsi also my turbo runs 16 pounds of boost. i dont ever want to have to do this again so i want to make sure that i have the right part number and the perfect ARP studs.

now i know i talked about checking the surfaces for warpage, but i am confident they are not and if they are, well, ill just keep these fancy bolts and wait for a new block

thanks for taking the time to read and help me out!

Let me google that for you

 

[93AWDDSM]

Let me google that for you

...

 

[callofktulu35]

...

Holy crap...now thats funny

 

[Rokien]

I checked the head and .003 doesn't slide under my straight edge at all, I was right about that part, also checked the head with the straight edge and is all good; now I just have to get these L19 head studs because I read on forums recently that they are "overkill" for regular 1g or 2g stock motors, but are best for the hot engines for the earlier 92 - 90's engines. but as to why I do not know, maybe because the L19's don't stretch easily. and is more heat resistant. correct me if im wrong, id like to know.