The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Blown Head Gasket?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Araesk

Proven Member
188
1
Jul 10, 2013
Muskego, Wisconsin
I just set my car for about 13PSI of boost, and I was flooring it to test it out, and right when i shifted (or almost a milisecond before) I heard a pop and the car turned off. When i turn it on it doesn't idle, and when in gear it won't go above 2K rpm's or build any boost at all. There is a black smokey residue on my turbo from my intake manifold. If I'm in neutral the car can get upto 6K rpm's but it takes a lot of on and off the gas to get up there. It sputters very loudly, however I don't here grinding metal (blown cylinders.) Any not too awful news?
 
I just set my car for about 13PSI of boost, and I was flooring it to test it out, and right when i shifted (or almost a milisecond before) I heard a pop and the car turned off. When i turn it on it doesn't idle, and when in gear it won't go above 2K rpm's or build any boost at all. There is a black smokey residue on my turbo from my intake manifold. If I'm in neutral the car can get upto 6K rpm's but it takes a lot of on and off the gas to get up there. It sputters very loudly, however I don't here grinding metal (blown cylinders.) Any not too awful news?

Wern't you just posting how you over did your boost on your MBC, and your car wouldn't boost anymore? We all gave you advise to replace your lines, and to let your car cool off and try again. You made a statement stating how you were impatient. Your impatience probably just blew up your turbo.
 
I was posting earlier how my car's boost didn't feel the same. I took the lines off, and then went ahead and tested it out. Realized there must have been hot air caught in the lines or something like you said. I'm looking for symptoms of what's damaged on my car, not how I ####ed up.
 
+1 on checking ALL your intercooler piping and couplers. I kind of have a hard time believing you would actually hear your headgasket 'pop' when it blows. It sounds like to me that you have developed a massive boost leak / vacuum leak. Also pull your intake off the turbo and check shaft play, the turbo could be fried especially if there is oil all over the place on top of the turbo.
 
Check if your intercooler piping popped off.

I'd kiss you if I could. Here I was thinking I just blew my engine, destroyed my tranny, or rocketed my turbo. And it was something that I literally just was working on a week ago. The hose clamps can't handle too much PSI huh? Glad it wasn't anything big at all. Was having an anxiety attack when it happened. Thanks so much! Runs perfectly smooth again!

As for checking the turbo, I checked it about a week ago and the nut that was on it had no left or right play, and minimul vertical play. So that's why I was confused on it being the turbo.
 
besides checking ## ic piping you might of hydro locked it . thats what happened to me and its expensive LOL not good brudda but if all your hoses and pipes are good and it shut off while under a load i can almost promise you its locked up.
 
Firstly, I'm astounded by the amount of suggestions pointing to a destroyed engine. Halfway through the first few lines of that post the immediate thought to me was " Intercooler Piping." Going as far as saying Hydro-lock? Eh.

Secondly, I'm also floored that no one has suggested the simple, age-old fix to this problem. When you put your piping together, spray the inside of the coupler with Hair-Spray. Namely Aquanet. Clamp everything snug and carry on. :) Never have that issue again.
 
I was being patient, I was anxious to go ahead and try to fix it was all. I went ahead and tested what was told to me, and learned that solved the problem. But as for driving it hard, I kind of have been since I've fallen in love with boost last week. But I'm now not going to go much higher than 5k again for a while. Gave me too much of a heart attack. I'm looking into picking up some metal piping though to replace the factory rubber corners and pipes so when I tap into it, I can get a less leaking from that tap since I'll be able to weld it.
 
I agree with Keiya. It's always best to start simple and rule out possibilities, rather than jump to conclusions. And the hairspray trick definitely works if your using not-so-good clamps, it just makes coupler removal an even bigger PITA. So ultimately I'd suggest some decent T-bolt clamps.

And just FYI, issues with the turbo itself will not cause running issues. The engine doesn't rely on the turbo in order to run. It'll be dead slow and probably blow smoke, but it won't affect starting, idling, or even cruising. Not too long ago I had to drive 80 miles back from the track with so much thrust play that the turbine wheel nearly welded itself to the heat shield.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top