Blew my B16g, what are my options?

[4gfun]

Kind of happy that I finally blew this thing due to the problems I have had since I got the car with boost fade and blowing blue smoke at WOT. (Seized compressor wheel)

If I want to stick with my FIC 650s on pump gas and continue to run 20-25 lbs I'd like to know what my options are.

I'd also like to know what my options are if I was to go with bigger injectors and take out the presently used Walbro 190lph and put in the Walbro255 I have just laying around.

I have never really taken a look at turbos since I started my DSM/GVR4 days many years ago because I have never had one blow.

I want to keep the price down in my case but want to know what my options are from a few different angles.


Thank you

 

[bigbird94]

You should look in to getting it rebuilt or buying another one. If on a budget you could pick up a 14b on the cheap and use the 7cm 16g hotside from your blown turbo. That setup should be able to put you back to a power level similar to where you were.

 

[DIMONDSTAR77]

i'm in the same boat, and have been searching for a good used one or new one for about a week now. if your hot side is cracked your looking about $500.00 to $600.00 for a new one, used about $200.00 and thats for the hot side only. the cheapest new "evo3" MHI big 16g (not an ebay unit) is from extremePSI.com and there about $899.00 with a 2-4 week wait. good luck

 

[2g4me]

HA, if your seeing blue smoke out the exhaust, u got more problems than a blown turbo. Blue smoke is usually an indication of fried piston rings.

BTW, 16g rebuild kits are like $50-$60 bucks on Ebay, and dont let anyone tell you they suck, i just rebuilt a 16g and T25 on a couple friends' cars with ebay kits a few weeks ago, they run wonderfully.

 

[TSITurbo95]

I would get it rebuilt, but realistically, before choosing your next turbo, what are your goals? Daily suby destroyer? Fun betty? Or big burtha drag monster? I would personally stick with the 16g or go to a 20g for a daily driver, fun turbo's.

 

[4gfun]

Kind of a mix...suby destroyer (one of my other cars is a Forester XT) but love using it in bad weather on dedicated snow rims/tires when my other cars would be left stranded. I am getting tired of them STI's hmmm. It's not my daily but when I do drive it, it does make a 130 mile round trip commute to work. Torn between the 16g and 20g but I am going to bet that the 190 Walbro and 650s won't cut it for the 20g.

I would get it rebuilt, but realistically, before choosing your next turbo, what are your goals? Daily suby destroyer? Fun betty? Or big burtha drag monster? I would personally stick with the 16g or go to a 20g for a daily driver, fun turbo's.

 

[victorious420]

If you were going to start from scratch, this is the direction I'd go.

14b chra < $75 or so used
new 7cm exhaust housing - $150 from hahns
Rebuild kit - $100 give or take
20 wheel and compressor housing via ebay - $170
Universal 3" Anti-surge Compressor Housing + Wheel 20G | eBay

You can save a lot by scouring ebay for used housings. I'm thinking about throwing a 10cm hahns hotside from a super16g i've got sitting around, onto a 20g built like that...if I ever go that route it will be extra work to run the exhaust and wastegate though, from where I'm at now..paid $125 for the entire super16g on ebay, in great shape, though, so you can have fun with being a cheapskate if you look around for deals.


*EDIT*
Or just get this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-MHI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1d5020ef&vxp=mtr

or this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TDO5H-16G-1...s=Make:Mitsubishi&hash=item43afd0abd8&vxp=mtr <<<someone needs to buy this, before I do just so I have an extra chra and exhaust housing I don't need,

I'd look for a small 16g or big 16g, those are easier to find than an evo3 16g and still fairly reasonably priced. With 650's even a small 16g will just about max you out if you try.

 

[JusMX141]

^ Still have to get the 14B center housing machined.

If the OP's Big 16G center housing isn't ruined, he could easily do something like this with a 20G wheel and cover setup from Kamak/Kinugawa along with a new turbine and all of the internals.

 

[victorious420]

^ Still have to get the 14B center housing machined.

If the OP's Big 16G center housing isn't ruined, he could easily do something like this with a 20G wheel and cover setup from Kamak/Kinugawa along with a new turbine and all of the internals.

True, add money for machining, and you would have a 20g for less than the EVO3 used to go for in the good old days...email the guy above me if your center housing is ruined, I've also got a couple extras sitting around.

 

[Pipnorcali]

Did someone say forester xt...nice

 

[4gfun]

Great thoughts all. So how do I know whether or not my center housing is ruined? Exactly what part is the center housing. Is it the area just around the compressor wheel?

I think that I want to stay with the B16g for now. Can't be arsed with injectors and a bigger fuel pump for now. My B16g setup ran rather untuned so I was never able to utilize it's potential.

Forester XT yep....04 so I've got the good Pistons/compression ratio/Final Drive but you've got the better tranny (if yours is an auto). Shiftpoints are rediculously high as far as RPMs go so a huge turbo as opposed to that T25 would work out alot better. Too bad the Auto TCU hasn't been cracked yet....kinda rediculous.

 

[victorious420]

IMO, if you are looking for a B16g, try a S16g instead....underrated compared to its 16g siblings, and therefore much cheaper and easier to find...and it can still move something like 38lbs/min, while spooling faster than other 16g variants, with greater efficiency. I hate to sound like I'm regurgitating, but i've got a bit of a boner for the S16 and feel its been overshadowed by the big and evo3 16g's.

 

[4gfun]

I had a s16g on one of my former DSMs and even though everyone raves about them, I preferred my b16g. Maybe the Galant's fat behind needs a b16g?

IMO, if you are looking for a B16g, try a S16g instead....underrated compared to its 16g siblings, and therefore much cheaper and easier to find...and it can still move something like 38lbs/min, while spooling faster than other 16g variants, with greater efficiency. I hate to sound like I'm regurgitating, but i've got a bit of a boner for the S16 and feel its been overshadowed by the big and evo3 16g's.

 

[92 GSR-4]

Quick question since it may or may not pertain to this situation (in regards to what the OP might use as a course of action): Are the Ebay compressor wheels anything worth having? I've seen some 16G/20G billet wheels, but wrote them off as offbrand crap.

Is there a link someone can provide that shows the machining process for a 14b/16g to upgrade to a larger wheel?

Last, are the Kinugawa/Kamak parts quality? I've seen them also, but didn't know if they're worth it.

 

[Seamus]

Is there a link someone can provide that shows the machining process for a 14b/16g to upgrade to a larger wheel?

They cut the CHRA to the exducer of the larger wheel. Any competent person with a lathe can do it.

 

[JusMX141]

I've seen some 16G/20G billet wheels, but wrote them off as offbrand crap.

Mitsubishi doesn't make billet 16G/20G wheels....so guess what? Every one you see is "offbrand crap".

 

[4gfun]

So how do I know whether or not my center housing is ruined?

 

[Pipnorcali]

Forester XT yep....04 so I've got the good Pistons/compression ratio/Final Drive but you've got the better tranny (if yours is an auto). Shiftpoints are rediculously high as far as RPMs go so a huge turbo as opposed to that T25 would work out alot better. Too bad the Auto TCU hasn't been cracked yet....kinda rediculous.

I got a 5spd with a sti block (tbelt went @ 75k) it's my family rally wagon so much fun.

Anyways back to the topic

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[4gfun]

You are scaring me....89k miles here and still on the stock t belts. Don't plan to change them until it's time.

Nice ride.

Anyways...looking at the serial number on the turbo it seems like I am running a small 16g. Wondering if that could have caused the boost fade problems I was having at higher rpms and could never fix.

I have a while to pull the turbo it's not my daily.

Yes, back to the topic, would appreciate if someone would tell me how I can tell whether or not the center of the turbo is good or is this some game changer if I am running an S16g.

I got a 5spd with a sti block (tbelt went @ 75k) it's my family rally wagon so much fun.

Anyways back to the topic

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[JusMX141]

So how do I know whether or not my center housing is ruined?

Grooved or out-of-spec journals, worn turbine seal lip as a result of excessive shaft play.

 

[92 GSR-4]

Mitsubishi doesn't make billet 16G/20G wheels....so guess what? Every one you see is "offbrand crap".

Understood. I guess my question is, would you trust parts like these?

Turbo Compressor Housing TD05H + Wheel 20G DSM 1G EVO 3 | eBay

Turbine Housing 7cm 34mm Flapper EVO 1~3 DSM 1G TD05H | eBay

Kinugawa parts on both those links

Here's a billet wheel:

Billet Compressor Wheel 20G for TD05?TD06 | eBay

 

[4gfun]

Thank you.

Grooved or out-of-spec journals, worn turbine seal lip as a result of excessive shaft play.

 

[DSMTyson]

I personally recommend getting your 16G rebuilt by Turbo Lab of America and instead of a B16G wheel or Evo 3 16G wheel.. an Evo X 16G wheel.

The Evo X wheel has the same size inducer as the Small 16G, and the same size exducer as an Evo 3 16G. So in other words it would flow similar to an Evo3 16G, while spooling similar to a small 16G.

Very efficient wheel design.

 

[ColtiXim]

The EVO X wheel is reverse, i have understand that

 

[JusMX141]

Evo X compressors are standard-rotation. The Evo VIII and IX compressors are reverse-rotation.

The Evo X 152G6 has an inducer that is slightly bigger than a Small 16G but the same 68mm exducer found on all Big 16G/18G/20G turbos. It would be expected to perform in between a Small 16G and Evo III 16G, so around 39-40lb/min of peak airflow.