Big16g... What should I do?

[jemsoccer]

So I bought this from a friend of mine and he did not tell me that it was cracked. What do you guys think I should do w/ this housing? Weldable? Or should I try to find a new one? Also, the picture of the stud that says "swivels", the stud actually swivels in the hole and will not thread in or out . I thought about drilling it, but that won't work if the thing keeps moving around. What is that? Was it just a normal stud that got really really messed up? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

 

[JusMX141]

The cracks are totally normal. As long as they're not the whole way through the housing, you have nothing to worry about.

The stud(s) can be removed and the holes can be heli-coiled. No big deal there.

The flapper is misaligned because the wastegate arm is walking out of the housing. Carefully tap the part of the wastegate arm that is visible from the outside of the turbine housing (when the turbo is on the car) to drive it back down while paying close attention to the location of the flapper inside the housing.

 

[jemsoccer]

The cracks are totally normal. As long as they're not the whole way through the housing, you have nothing to worry about.

The stud(s) can be removed and the holes can be heli-coiled. No big deal there.

The flapper is misaligned because the wastegate arm is walking out of the housing. Carefully tap the part of the wastegate arm that is visible from the outside of the turbine housing (when the turbo is on the car) to drive it back down while paying close attention to the location of the flapper inside the housing.

Well that makes me feel better... I was thinking about rebuilding the turbo because there is shaft play, maybe 1/16"? So would it be worth welding the housing while its all apart?

Also, I know the studs are easy to get out, I work at a machine shop. My question was if you guys had any idea why that stud is swiveling all around?

 

[blkwidow]

A little side to side shaft play is normal.

 

[JusMX141]

That turbo has a 15* clip on the turbine- it's a keeper for sure. You could try porting some of the surface cracks out....I've been successful at this on occasion. You may also want to pick up a 34mm wastegate flapper from FP or on eBay (item 310014003030) so you can keep boost levels under control.

Concerning shaft play, read this tech article (written by yours truly):
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...-what-worry-about-when-buying-used-turbo.html

 

[jemsoccer]

Thanks jusmx141... you have been very helpful and reassuring. I appreciate it.

 

[CompuBob_TSi]

tap the flapper with a hammer where is goes into the side of the housing, that will line it back up so it covers the hole. I've had to do that to about 5 turbo's so far. works every time.

 

[ScottH]

A nice bullseye housing would be worth picking up. Check them out Here.

 

[eclispestar]

I think you should go buy a new hot side housing and then you should be fine.

 

[JusMX141]

There's absolutely nothing wrong with that housing....I've used turbos with exhaust housings that looked WAY worse than that one with absolutely no issues.

If it's cracked the whole way through (common on older 14B housings) then you should replace it.

 

[jemsoccer]

If that housing is going to work just fine, I'm not going to buy a new one. I am on a very limited budget.

But my 1 question has still gone unanswered... why is that one stud just pivoting in that hole and not coming loose? Is that a stud that has been worn so badly that is has created a small ball shape inside??

 

[marshall13]

If your budget increases in the future, you could always weld the internal wastegate hole closed and disable the internal, and then go with an external wastegate setup. I did this recently and have not had any problems.

 

[jemsoccer]

If your budget increases in the future, you could always weld the internal wastegate hole closed and disable the internal, and then go with an external wastegate setup. I did this recently and have not had any problems.

Yea, that was an option I was thinking about. However, if this turbo is going to work out just fine, I'm going to stick w/ it. I'm not looking to be 100% efficient w/ my setup, so if I'm losing a bit of power due to the cracked housing, I'm not going to complain. My main goal at this point is to just get the darn car to start.

 

[jemsoccer]

So there is still 1 question everyone has seem to have avoided... why does that stud swivel??? And how do I drill it out of there w/ out it moving around. The guy at my machine shop said he could probably use a torch and "bead" it all up and blow it out.

 

[SOADweskey]

The stud swivels because it is messed up. It is not supposed to do that. It is just a standard stud that is probably stripped to hell.

 

[jemsoccer]

The stud swivels because it is messed up. It is not supposed to do that. It is just a standard stud that is probably stripped to hell.

Yea, that's what I figured. Just wanted a 2nd opinion. Does anyone know if it will hurt to drill through the other side to make the hole deeper so that I can use the same bolt size, just longer?

 

[klipschaudio]

That turbo has a 15* clip on the turbine- it's a keeper for sure. You could try porting some of the surface cracks out....I've been successful at this on occasion. You may also want to pick up a 34mm wastegate flapper from FP or on eBay (item 310014003030) so you can keep boost levels under control.

Concerning shaft play, read this tech article (written by yours truly):
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...-what-worry-about-when-buying-used-turbo.html

What do you mean by 15 degree clip?Where? How does it make it a keeper? Enlighten me, Thanks!

 

[JusMX141]

When you "clip" a turbine wheel, you're altering the width and angle of the turbine's blades in order to make it less restrictive at higher boost levels, or when pairing a small turbine with a large compressor on some hybrid turbochargers. Clipping can be done at almost any turbo shop at a cost of $75-$100.

Clipping is generally found in 10 degree, 15 degree, and 20 degree variants. A 10 degree clip will have more backpressure than a 20 degree, and so on; therefore a 10 degree clip will flow less than a 20 degree, but it will also spool faster.

I meant that the original poster's turbo is a keeper because it's rare to find a clipped 16G. Again, this is generally only a mod you would do if you're running high boost levels and/or a large compressor paired with a small turbine.

Here's a TD05H turbine with a 15 degree clip. Notice how the front edge of the blades is visibly flatter (top view pic) and angled more (side view pic) than those of the standard TD05H?

Clipped TD05H:

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Standard TD05H:

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[jemsoccer]

When you "clip" a turbine wheel, you're altering the width and angle of the turbine's blades in order to make it less restrictive at higher boost levels, or when pairing a small turbine with a large compressor on some hybrid turbochargers. Clipping can be done at almost any turbo shop at a cost of $75-$100.

Clipping is generally found in 10 degree, 15 degree, and 20 degree variants. A 10 degree clip will have more backpressure than a 20 degree, and so on; therefore a 10 degree clip will flow less than a 20 degree, but it will also spool faster.

I meant that the original poster's turbo is a keeper because it's rare to find a clipped 16G. Again, this is generally only a mod you would do if you're running high boost levels and/or a large compressor paired with a small turbine.

Here's a TD05H turbine with a 15 degree clip. Notice how the front edge of the blades is visibly flatter (top view pic) and angled more (side view pic) than those of the standard TD05H?

Clipped TD05H:

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Standard TD05H:

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So the $225 I spent on this thing was probably worth it. Sweet!

 

[jemsoccer]

I would say just get a new exhaust housing.

OK, send me the money and I will!

 

[klipschaudio]

Cool, thanks for the explanation jusmx141.

 

[jemsoccer]

Cool, thanks for the explanation jusmx141.

+1 on that. Very informative. I was actually going to ask the same question, but Klipschaudio beat me to it.

 

[JusMX141]

No problem, Jem.

I see you had been considering rebuilding that turbo....it would be a very good idea to do so. If you look at the turbine wheel in the pic showing the gap in the wastegate flapper, you'll see that the turbine appears damp. It most definitely has a leaking turbine shaft seal, and will burn oil if it were installed as is.

 

[jemsoccer]

No problem, Jem.

I see you had been considering rebuilding that turbo....it would be a very good idea to do so. If you look at the turbine wheel in the pic showing the gap in the wastegate flapper, you'll see that the turbine appears damp. It most definitely has a leaking turbine shaft seal, and will burn oil if it were installed as is.

Yea, I noticed that and was thinking I would def. do the rebuild. Is it ok to sandblast the turbine wheel? Is there anything that shouldn't be blasted?

 

[JusMX141]

I media-blast all of my turbo's internals with baking soda. It's suprisingly abrasive, and removes carbon like magic while leaving the surface underneath baby-smooth.

You could probably sandblast the turbine wheel itself, but that's all I'd do with sand (not the seal groove or shaft where the journal bearings ride). Even at that, you're putting pits in the wheel that would make carbon easier to "stick" to.