Best way to cut braided lines.

[kahl23]

One other thought. Having used many different types of hose and fittings, I've found that Aeroquip makes the best fittings and hose. It's more expensive but makes things much easier. For some reason, their hose doesn't fray nearly as much as generic and Earls. So if you have to make more hoses in the future, think about going Aeroquip.

 

[99gst_racer]

Has anyone thought of using teflon steel braided hose?

Teflon has an advantage over rubber synthetic hose in a few different ways.

1. rubber generally needs to be replaced every three years.(technically).
teflon last a life time.
2. teflon doesn't transfer any heat.
3. Teflon can hold much higher pressures. (not like it really applies to oil or fuel for us)

Teflon hose also has it's disadvantages:

1. It is more expensive
2. There is a very limited selection of fittings available for it.
3. All fittings are steel - no aluminum.
4. Teflon hose has a very tight bending radius as apposed to the rubber hose. This could pose a problem if working in a tight place.

It's good hose, but it's not really needed for low pressure applications such as oil, water, and fuel transfer. It is recommended for applications such as clutch line, nitrous, power steering, or anything with hydraulic fluid.

Another thing I wanted to mention to everyone, was that I use black shrink wrap on all of my hoses. Why, well it looks like the stock rubber hose and no one can tell the difference.

If the stock look is what you desire, why not just use high quality rubber hose with push-on aluminum fittings? It would offer the same performance, the same look, and it would save you a ton of money. Just a thought....

 

[project_tsi]

Thanks for the info Paul. Even though I have never had a problem with the hoses, I will be removing the tape. Well, as soon as you give me my AFPR and fuel hose back!

 

[hopwoodp]

Teflon hose also has it's disadvantages:

1. It is more expensive
2. There is a very limited selection of fittings available for it.
3. All fittings are steel - no aluminum.
4. Teflon hose has a very tight bending radius as apposed to the rubber hose. This could pose a problem if working in a tight place.

It's good hose, but it's not really needed for low pressure applications such as oil, water, and fuel transfer. It is recommended for applications such as clutch line, nitrous, power steering, or anything with hydraulic fluid.


If the stock look is what you desire, why not just use high quality rubber hose with push-on aluminum fittings? It would offer the same performance, the same look, and it would save you a ton of money. Just a thought....

Your right! But, the reason I prefer teflon hose is because it is stronger, doesn't transfer heat like rubber synthetic and it does not have a 3 year shelf life. Telfon will last as long as it hasn't been damaged. I would rather buy one hose and pay more then have to worry about the rubber rotting or expanding and having to replace it every so often.

Yes, teflon hoses take some skill to build but, I do it for the piece of mind.

 

[project_tsi]

Last year I replaced my entire fuel line w/ the teflon SS braided hose. I'm not going to get into details but I used a few special fittings and parts so I adapted it to the stock hard line fitting comming out of the pump, and well as adapted it to the stock filter. In all actuallity, it is alot cheaper to get a custom length hose made for you w/ hydraulic pressed fittings on. W/ every piece I used, including a few extra peices, the entire line cost me sub $100.

I'm replacing it right now though. Heres why. When I had bought the car the fuel lines leaked and needed replacing. I had NO IDEA at that time that I was going to build up the car. My initial intentions were to get the car running as just slightly modded and sell it. So instead of using large -6 or so line, I used -3 or -4, I can't remember. Well needless to say the fuel line is too small for me right now.

So this time, Instead of getting the teflon hose made again, I am using the rubber SS braided -6 line w/ all fittings. I'm replacing every peice of OEM line, including the small hard line in the pump housing itself. I'm also using a new aftermarket filter. Basically I'm going for a complete clean install this time w/ no OEM parts. W/ all fittings, 20' of hose, and filter, I spent $175. I checked into the price of the teflon hose and for a custom hose I need in -6, plus all other fittings, and filter, the price would be about the same.

Also, any high quality SS braided fuel specific hose like Aeroquip will not need replacing in 3 years. I have ran higher quality pushlock hose and its been fine for 5+ years, and still going strong in a friends car.

 

[99gst_racer]

Your right! But, the reason I prefer teflon hose is because it is stronger, doesn't transfer heat like rubber synthetic and it does not have a 3 year shelf life. Telfon will last as long as it hasn't been damaged. I would rather buy one hose and pay more then have to worry about the rubber rotting or expanding and having to replace it every so often.

Yes, teflon hoses take some skill to build but, I do it for the piece of mind.

Dan, is correct in his above post. The stainless braided rubber hose does not rot in a 3 year period.

I just got off the phone with Aeroquip in IL. The tech rep. stated that there is way too many varibles to determine the longevity and lifespan on a piece of hose. He also stated that if using -6 hose for transfering fuel on a street car, it should last a long time.

On that note, I have had hose on my car since 2002 and it still looks brand new.

 

[hopwoodp]

Dan, is correct in his above post. The stainless braided rubber hose does not rot in a 3 year period.

I just got off the phone with Aeroquip in IL. The tech rep. stated that there is way too many varibles to determine the longevity and lifespan on a piece of hose. He also stated that if using -6 hose for transfering fuel on a street car, it should last a long time.

On that note, I have had hose on my car since 2002 and it still looks brand new.

I believe you. I am not trying to get in a pissing match with you. All I am putting out there is what I learned from my past few years in aviation. I know that there is a difference. Our hoses flow 50 to 200 psi of fuel for two hours a day for 300 days a year.
Besides, the fuel we use is JP5 like diesel.

Honestly when I replace these hoses they don't look too bad. For a regular street setup I sure these hoses will last for more than ten years. But, for high horse power applications I would only run them for 5 years. Why? Just for simple peace of mind.

Now, I am not trying to convince people to use teflon hoses esp. for the matter that they are expensive (the three piece fittings go for +$50) and not many people can make them on there own.

You and Dan are correct about what you said. I hope this help some people with questions about these hoses. If you have any questions please shoot me a PM and I will be glad to help you out. If you need any technical references I would be glad to provide them.

 

[GeosTalon]

I would have a hard time believing that Teflon hose is going to be stronger than rubber braided stainless.

Okay, let me rephrase that. I believe that it would outlast the SS braided rubber; look at the rubber mounts on any 1G DSM. However I don't think that the line is tougher i.e. taking a hit from a sharp object.

I've always used 3M electrical tape (not the dollar store black plastic with glue on it) and a high speed pneumatic cutoff wheel, removing the tape upon completion of the cut. But I'm going to try the fiberglass tape mentioned; why not give it a shot, right?

That's just my .02 on the subject.

 

[crazykid]

Wow, I wonder if I installed my lines correctly... On the one end I removed the tape, but was unable to get the line in with the steel braid (frayed out like a mother). so I simply just but in the rubber line only, and use electrical tape to take the steel braid down around the fitting (i know its ghetto, but my buddy has my dremel).

The other end is basically the same, I had to cut it down, but again was unable to get the steel braid inside the fittings a long with the rubber hose, so I just frayed off the steel braid and electrical taped all the frayed crap down around ontop of the fitting.

I wish I would of read this before about oiling it.

Do the steel braids HAVE to be in the fitting along with the rubber line? Does it make a difference really other than a non-ghetto look?

EDIT: After I posted this I have properly fixed the end that connects to the FPR. It sure as hell looks A LOT better... Time to try to tackle the other end which is a whole lot worse, im hoping I have enough line left since I probably need to trim a bit off

 

[Crazed Modder]

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Works fine for me.

 

[crazykid]

Ok well I fixed my one end to how it should properly be installed to the connectors, but fixing my other end is a no go. I cut it properly, looked good no fraying... lubed it all up like I did the other end, but it just will NOT go into the red fitting. Its just starting to fray bad, I trimmed all the fraying off, tried again (with tons of oily lubricant crap on it). And same thing. So I guess im back to my original question.. Is it ok to trim the steel braid off the rubber line and only put the rubber line into the fitting? Then wrap the outside of the fitting where the steel braid starts with some electrical tape (to prevent further fraying)?

 

[kanderson111]

Ok well I fixed my one end to how it should properly be installed to the connectors, but fixing my other end is a no go. I cut it properly, looked good no fraying... lubed it all up like I did the other end, but it just will NOT go into the red fitting. Its just starting to fray bad, I trimmed all the fraying off, tried again (with tons of oily lubricant crap on it). And same thing. So I guess im back to my original question.. Is it ok to trim the steel braid off the rubber line and only put the rubber line into the fitting? Then wrap the outside of the fitting where the steel braid starts with some electrical tape (to prevent further fraying)?

The stainless steel should go into the fitting, and you should remove the black tape before putting it in there. What I like to do after I remove the tape is to take a dremel with a small cut of wheel and use that to grind down any stray wires that look like they will hender you from inserting the hose. Make sure you lube that thing up with oil, then twist and push at the same time.

And no it is not okay to just insert the rubber into the fitting, it is designed for the outside diameter of the tube with the braiding on it. Also the rubber hose will swell into the recesses in the fitting which will cause longevity issues.

 

[crazykid]

The stainless steel should go into the fitting, and you should remove the black tape before putting it in there. What I like to do after I remove the tape is to take a dremel with a small cut of wheel and use that to grind down any stray wires that look like they will hender you from inserting the hose. Make sure you lube that thing up with oil, then twist and push at the same time.

And no it is not okay to just insert the rubber into the fitting, it is designed for the outside diameter of the tube with the braiding on it. Also the rubber hose will swell into the recesses in the fitting which will cause longevity issues.

Just great, if thats the case im just screwed at this point. My one end I got in just fine, but the other end WILL NOT go in with the steel braid under any circumstances, im thinking the red fitting may actually be a slightly smaller size (wouldnt be surprised, very common from this vendor to make dumb mistakes like that, definently not the first time I would of got screwed, yet I keep going back, thats another story though ), as it takes a slightly different wrench as well. I also can not cut the line anymore to "try-again" as it will be to short for my mounting location.

Hopefully it will be ok for the time being (its not my daily driver), I really dont got the money atm to buy another line & set of connectors.

 

[kahl23]

What brand of connectors are you using? Most -AN fittings are reusable, so you would only need to buy some more ss line from somewhere like Summit. I use a worm clamp tightened just behind the cut to keep the wires from fraying. As soon as I get it in that first 1/16th of an inch, I completely unscrew the worm clamp and remove it. I then push it in the rest of the way. Basically stainless lines take practice. I suggest buying more line than you need and just building a few. To see if the two fittings are the same size, just use a ruler to measure the diameter of the two. If they aren't the same, look online (again Summit sells them) and grab another one in the right size. It doesn't sound like you're going for looks, but you've probably rubbed off the anodized finish by now. I use a red and blue sharpie to hide the scratches. Good luck!

 

[99gst_racer]

crazykid - It is completely possible to cut the hose and not get a single bit of outer braid freying. If you are having freying issues, I'd suggest more practice cutting the hose, and maybe even different methods of cutting.

 

[autronicDSM]

I use brown paper tape when cutting. It's kind of like masking tape but thicker. Hose doesn't fray as much and electrical tape tends to stretch due to heat. I wrap it few times, cut it, take the tape off and put new one on so it doesn't overlap (easier to push it in), I also try it to be as tight as possible. I put some oil on it for lubrication and it goes in pretty damn easy.

 

[crazykid]

crazykid - It is completely possible to cut the hose and not get a single bit of outer braid freying. If you are having freying issues, I'd suggest more practice cutting the hose, and maybe even different methods of cutting.

I totally believe it is also, like I said, I managed to get it in with one connector on one side (with hardly any trouble, used duct tape to cut, and some oil lubricant I had sitting around), its only the other side (which I now came to the conclusion is the wrong size connector) that is giving me trouble. The 'wrong size connector' wont go on EITHER side, and ive measured, sure enough their is a slight size is difference. Ive tried different methods, none of which worked, and I got no more line to play with.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

The hose kits I got were from Slowboy. I like most of their products but the connectors that go on the end just plain suck. I tried fitting them in there even before cutting it and it doesn't really wanna go. I haven't even finished them cause I'm gonna have to get new connectors. The ones they sent me, you have to push on. I dunno what the other brand looks like but some guys I know who are into the V8 scene all tell me that I got the OLD style that's total crap. They tell me it should be easy to go on....they thought I was probably a moron and was doing something wrong.

 

[crazykid]

The hose kits I got were from Slowboy. I like most of their products but the connectors that go on the end just plain suck. I tried fitting them in there even before cutting it and it doesn't really wanna go. I haven't even finished them cause I'm gonna have to get new connectors. The ones they sent me, you have to push on. I dunno what the other brand looks like but some guys I know who are into the V8 scene all tell me that I got the OLD style that's total crap. They tell me it should be easy to go on....they thought I was probably a moron and was doing something wrong.

Ditto, I got one connector on fine, just took some lube, other connector is wrong size. I may try the 'push-lock' style ones in the future (assuming I can get sent the right ones ) if I start to leak since only the rubber tubing could fit in the smaller connector. Or just get another steel-braided line and connectors from another vendor (too many bad SB experiences).

 

[WatchItExplode]

I gave up on the stainless steel lines and used socketless "pushlock" lines. In my opinion it wasn't worth the hassle when you get just as much reliability, and you can barely see the lines going to and from my oil cooler. For fuel lines on the other hand, it would be nice to have the "bling."

 

[autronicDSM]

What a bunch of weaklings! Just follow the tip I posted and it's super easy. SS lines supposed to be hard to push in because that's how they seal. If you notice inside part that goes into the hose looks like it's threaded. Once you push the hose far enough you can use a wrench to finish turning the fitting on.

 

[99gst_racer]

Do you guys have any pictures of the problems you are having?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I'm curious as well. You should have a little spare hose that will allow for a couple of "practice" cuts.

A little reinforced tape (not the cheap-o black electrical tape) goes a long way in getting the cut correct without any fraying issues. Also a new cut-off wheel and a smooth "pass" does wonders in getting a clean cut.

I believe that if someone takes a couple of 1" or so practice cuts just to get the hang of it that these problems will go away.

 

[crazykid]

Trust me, I know how to cut, and put on steel braided line, and this is the first time I have EVER had a problem, and like I said, it was only with the one connector. Also, I have re-tried many times with this connector, the connector for the other end works just fine on either end of the braided line. I tried many ways, until I just simply cant afford now to cut anymore line to 'try again'.

I dont got access to a digi cam right now so I cant get any pics, ill try to borrow one from a friend. It would also require me to take the line apart again, since I have it all together and installed haha... ill see what I can do.

Oh paul, Ive been trying to get ahold of you on aim, you change your sn recently? Havent seen you on in sometime now.

 

[99gst_racer]

Oh paul, Ive been trying to get ahold of you on aim, you change your sn recently? Havent seen you on in sometime now.

I only have AIM on my home computer, and I'm hardly ever online at home. Just PM me.