Best turbo for my spec.

[SvarO]

Will work but will be laggy for a street car. The clipped TD06H turbine is designed for flow, not spool. Drag cars don't give a shit about spool time anyway- you're never below 5k at the track unless you shift like a grandma.


It's basically a Mitsubishi 50-trim. The TD06H turbine outflows the popular Garrett T31 turbine, so this turbo would actually be more effective at making power than it's Garrett equivalent.


Very popular turbo with three possible turbine choices. Each will effect the turbo's spool and should be chosen by the amount of boost you're looking to run and the peak airflow you're looking at making.


None of these turbos will work well with an internal gate. You should really look at going external off the o2 housing and running a less expensive manifold for now then upgrading the manifold later if you choose. You'll make more power dollar-for-dollar by spending the money you would've spent on the FP manifold on an external gate setup.

am thinking, because I sold my manifold...

external WG is like 500 dollars more plus the 1.3k FP turbo.... unless if I choose the PTE HP5557 with install kit to take care of the oil, punishment 38mm o2 housing and tial 38mm WG is like 1500 dollars and wait a bit for the extra 200 dollars.

 

[Rockbmx1]

Will work but will be laggy for a street car. The clipped TD06H turbine is designed for flow, not spool. Drag cars don't give a shit about spool time anyway- you're never below 5k at the track unless you shift like a grandma.

My brother uses a red on his talon. He is getting 26psi at about 4400rpm. Its a pretty fun turbo.

The older fp red's use the clipped TDO6H wheels, but the newer ones use the fp spec TDO6H wheels that use 11 blades versus the MHI 12 blade wheels. Fp does this so that clipping is not needed and it also aids in spooling up the turbo a bit faster then the clipped version.

 

[STM tuned]

PTE 5557....

You can get it bolt on, internally gated with a billet wheel in journal baring flavor for a little less than 1k.

Just another option....

 

[jrohner]

I don't understand why you want 8500rpms with 400hp. That just doesn't seem logical on a 2.0, maybe a 1.6. Are you a previous Honduh owner? That would explain why you think you need to rev so much for such a 'low' amount of hp.

Basically, if you can rev that high with that kind of hp, you're way under what your setup can really do (low boost and/or crappy tune). Sure my car can pull pretty good to 8 grand if I turn the boost down, but what do I have but 300-some-hp on a 400hp setup? With it nearly maxed out, it only pulls good to 7 grand IMO.

 

[SvarO]

PTE 5557....

You can get it bolt on, internally gated with a billet wheel in journal baring flavor for a little less than 1k.

Just another option....

pm me a good package price including the manifold.

 

[95GSXBLUR]

You're not going to be holding over 24psi with any internally-gated turbo too well, bud.

I'd like to call BS from my TRUE LIFE experience.

I have a Borg Warner s258 with an INTERNAL gate.. I rock and hold a CONSISTENT 30PSI from 4000Rpms to 8000 on my 2.4L


You don't need an external gate to make "serious" power - it has nothing to do with it. External gates are typically more CONSISTENT in keeping the boost where you want it - it has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO with actually making power.

Look into the new billet Borg Warners. Retarded fast spool, reliability, ABLE TO REBUILD over any "garrett ball bearing equivalent"

People need to actually USE a turbo before making a comment about them before what they read on forums. If you haven't had proven personal experience then don't post @ all.

Get a borg Warner.. they're MORE EFFICIENT in ALL RPM ranges because they compressor map is WIDER than that majority of its competitors. My internal gate works perfectly fine and holds pressures great with it's adjustable actuator. You just have to get it set up properly - so if you don't have experience or didn't have the capability or knowledge on how to probably configure an internal gate - maybe you should go get one of your own and figure it out... or pay someone who knows how.

 

[SvarO]

I don't understand why you want 8500rpms with 400hp. That just doesn't seem logical on a 2.0, maybe a 1.6. Are you a previous Honduh owner? That would explain why you think you need to rev so much for such a 'low' amount of hp.

Basically, if you can rev that high with that kind of hp, you're way under what your setup can really do (low boost and/or crappy tune). Sure my car can pull pretty good to 8 grand if I turn the boost down, but what do I have but 300-some-hp on a 400hp setup? With it nearly maxed out, it only pulls good to 7 grand IMO.

as far I read on this forum and evo owners (here) cars 2.0 is pretty good for 8k rpm - 8.5k rpm, they are making pretty good powers on fp red 2.0 pulling a turbo jdm honda with 360 whp on rolling. several times.

that evo is using red with 2.0 stock manifold intake/exhaust he running high boost on fuel pump on high rpm. but am not comparing my engine since is different, even if the setup is almost the same. he was tuned by Jestr and Mellon.

beside it should be a pretty fun setup running 8k rpm with the boost steady, don't you think?

I never had a honduh before.

I'd like to call BS from my TRUE LIFE experience.

I have a Borg Warner s258 with an INTERNAL gate.. I rock and hold a CONSISTENT 30PSI from 4000Rpms to 8000 on my 2.4L


You don't need an external gate to make "serious" power - it has nothing to do with it. External gates are typically more CONSISTENT in keeping the boost where you want it - it has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO with actually making power.

Look into the new billet Borg Warners. Retarded fast spool, reliability, ABLE TO REBUILD over any "garrett ball bearing equivalent"

People need to actually USE a turbo before making a comment about them before what they read on forums. If you haven't had proven personal experience then don't post @ all.

Get a borg Warner.. they're MORE EFFICIENT in ALL RPM ranges because they compressor map is WIDER than that majority of its competitors. My internal gate works perfectly fine and holds pressures great with it's adjustable actuator. You just have to get it set up properly - so if you don't have experience or didn't have the capability or knowledge on how to probably configure an internal gate - maybe you should go get one of your own and figure it out... or pay someone who knows how.

ok this is a pretty good feedback for me and many people.

the BW are on my mind, what about the S256? (remember my budget)

 

[95GSXBLUR]

The S256 is a great turbo, great spool, and you can do the internal gate. I run mine off the FP manifold as well. EVOIII O2 Housing and 3" turbo back exhaust.

You won't be dissatisfied. It's by far the best turbo I've ran (T25 to 14B to 18G to BEP Vtrim back to 18G then to H3 to 60 Trim to BW S258)

 

[YOOOO]

Show me a link to an out-of-the-box TD05H 20G with the downfiring compressor cover, DSM bolt-on turbine housing, and internal wastegate with a factory Mitsubishi part number on the box that wasn't built by a shop. They don't exist.


This is also the same car that went almost as fast with an off-the-shelf Evo III. The HTA68 is not going to guarantee you the same results.

I believe you, I was just explaining why I don't like Holsets.

I don't understand why you want 8500rpms with 400hp. That just doesn't seem logical on a 2.0, maybe a 1.6. Are you a previous Honduh owner? That would explain why you think you need to rev so much for such a 'low' amount of hp.

Basically, if you can rev that high with that kind of hp, you're way under what your setup can really do (low boost and/or crappy tune). Sure my car can pull pretty good to 8 grand if I turn the boost down, but what do I have but 300-some-hp on a 400hp setup? With it nearly maxed out, it only pulls good to 7 grand IMO.

If it's still making more power, and he has the head to do it, why wouldn't you want to rev that high? Of course you'll need a dyno tune to figure this out...and the right turbo.

 

[tkelly27]

It sucks you sold the E3/2g mani. There are more and more people every month hitting the 400whp mark with that combo. Running a 14 means you're either a very bad driver, or you didn't push your E3 setup. 13's are a no brainer, 12's are relatively easy, and cracking into the 11's can be done by most normal people with an E3 with supporting mods.

You've got a lot of options listed for you, I would choose a setup that let you get the 272 cams, a SMIM that will let your engine breathe up at the 8.5k that you want, and something to tune with. For anything other than a holset, that pretty much leaves another 16g...

*didn't see you had valve springs*. I personally don't see the need to wind stock internals to 8k.

A big turbo looks nice sitting under there, but it's not going to do a darn thing without the other parts that help it.

Check into delta cams for 272's.

You want to run with $30k cars with a $1.3k budget. It can really only be done with a holset, stealing a bolt on turbo from someone for the price of a holset, or tuning the S* out of a smaller turbo.

 

[xreaction122]

*Flamesuit on before a holset praising comment is made*
IMO If I wanted a solid 400whp street/strip car I would pick up a FP68HTA,TiAL 38mm and go E85(not sure if you have them available in your area)
I got my Tial 38mm w/ dumped 2.5" O2 housing setup used for around $300, get a Good tune and you should be able to crank out 400 no problem and still keep the stock frame turbo setup. Only thing is If your really planning on revving out the engine to 8.5k, the 68HTA might hold you back a tad because of the TD05 housing.
FP claims 47lb/min but its probably around 45lbs/min.

No harsh feelings/offense to all the holset supporters but honestly, this forum is treating it like its a godlike turbo . I've driven a local SBR 2.3 car with a hx35,SMIM, etc. I don't see ANYTHING special about them unless your on a budget.
Yes i've read ALL the holset threads AND looked at the compressor maps.
/rant

Please don't bite me in the neck, This is my personal preference.

 

[SvarO]

It sucks you sold the E3/2g mani. There are more and more people every month hitting the 400whp mark with that combo. Running a 14 means you're either a very bad driver, or you didn't push your E3 setup. 13's are a no brainer, 12's are relatively easy, and cracking into the 11's can be done by most normal people with an E3 with supporting mods.

You've got a lot of options listed for you, I would choose a setup that let you get the 272 cams, a SMIM that will let your engine breathe up at the 8.5k that you want, and something to tune with. For anything other than a holset, that pretty much leaves another 16g...

*didn't see you had valve springs*. I personally don't see the need to wind stock internals to 8k.

A big turbo looks nice sitting under there, but it's not going to do a darn thing without the other parts that help it.

Check into delta cams for 272's.

You want to run with $30k cars with a $1.3k budget. It can really only be done with a holset, stealing a bolt on turbo from someone for the price of a holset, or tuning the S* out of a smaller turbo.

you are funny.

14.2 at 10 psi. spinning tires. the 16g is proven but friend (4g63 colt) need it more than me, my evo 3 yes JDM evo friends are doing 12.8 sec, but its time to upgrade, to hit 400 with a 16g you need serious mods and fuel or meth, or ethanol, like I said before, am not going to use VP or anything like that.

the 1.3k its only for the turbo, the rest of my engine is fully builded. I never said am going to spend 1.3k on my entire engine, only the head have more than 1k :/.

I don't want Holset.....

*Flamesuit on before a holset praising comment is made*
IMO If I wanted a solid 400whp street/strip car I would pick up a FP68HTA,TiAL 38mm and go E85(not sure if you have them available in your area)
I got my Tial 38mm w/ dumped 2.5" O2 housing setup used for around $300, get a Good tune and you should be able to crank out 400 no problem and still keep the stock frame turbo setup. Only thing is If your really planning on revving out the engine to 8.5k, the 68HTA might hold you back a tad because of the TD05 housing.
FP claims 47lb/min but its probably around 45lbs/min.

No harsh feelings/offense to all the holset supporters but honestly, this forum is treating it like its a godlike turbo . I've driven a local SBR 2.3 car with a hx35,SMIM, etc. I don't see ANYTHING special about them unless your on a budget.
Yes i've read ALL the holset threads AND looked at the compressor maps.
/rant

Please don't bite me in the neck, This is my personal preference.

not ethanol here , the FP68HTA is pretty nasty turbo, its a beast, but I think you have to push it really hard to get those number, since am not running with special fuel, its not for me.

imagine....hot weather (tropical), high humidity, 93 oct fuel, and small housing naaahh

 

[camfast]

Just get an evo 16g or 18g, these turbos are more than capable of hitting 400whp and hassle free. I also vote for the FP race manifold. Keep it simple and remember you will need a very good tune on whatever engine management you have.

Good Luck!

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Just FYI - That time i ran - was on Pump Gas @ 20PSI to the left of my profile... Forgive the the ET - the MPH is where it's it.. 20 PSI yes 20!! on Pump! My clutch couldn't take the E85 and I never got a chance to run it... now I have a PTT Twin Disc, and it's AMAZING @ 30 psi!!!

S256 on pump, would be amazing for you. Highly recommend it. PM me if you need a place to get it all. I can help you out!

 

[camfast]

Just FYI - That time i ran - was on Pump Gas @ 20PSI to the left of my profile... Forgive the the ET - the MPH is where it's it.. 20 PSI yes 20!! on Pump! My clutch couldn't take the E85 and I never got a chance to run it... now I have a PTT Twin Disc, and it's AMAZING @ 30 psi!!!

S256 on pump, would be amazing for you. Highly recommend it. PM me if you need a place to get it all. I can help you out!

Remember that you have a 2.4l motor. The op has a 2.0 so you are pushing way more airflow with that setup at 20psi then he will. Regardless, the s256 is impressive from what ive seen on pump gas.

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Remember that you have a 2.4l motor. The op has a 2.0 so you are pushing way more airflow with that setup at 20psi then he will. Regardless, the s256 is impressive from what ive seen on pump gas.

I will agree with that - but he'll be revving higher! this is me shifting @ 7k, because the ACT2600 was dragging SOOOO bad @ anything higher than 7. (not to mention i was on all seasons.. )

This turbo is super efficient at all RPMs and will not drop off or choke out @ 8500 on the 2.0.

 

[YOOOO]

Just some food for thought...the 18G is ~$700 from forced performance which will leave you plenty of money for that manifold and external wastegate. Just give 'em a call, they'll help you out.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I'm gonna go ahead and say, that if you want 400whp on 93oct pump gas, you're going to have to spend some dough on a nice 35r sized turbo.

It just IS NOT going to happen without going to an alternative fuel type on smaller turbochargers.

Also, give up on your internal wastegate idea at this point too. It's not going to cut the mustard for your prospective power levels.

 

[SvarO]

Just some food for thought...the 18G is ~$700 from forced performance which will leave you plenty of money for that manifold and external wastegate. Just give 'em a call, they'll help you out.

already did, they said the green will be enough...

 

[YOOOO]

So did you decide? FP makes good stuff

 

[jrohner]

You're not going to be holding over 24psi with any internally-gated turbo too well, bud.

At some point you have to face the jury. An external gate will be required to make any serious power with your setup.

I think the issue with boost control with the internal gate is the controller and the actuator. With the stock actuator & a MBC, I could only hold 22psi. I put a big spring on, pulling on the flapper toward the WGA, and I got a smoother, more consistent boost 'curve', but still only 22-23psi. I switched to a Holset actuator (which gives me 22 psi without any boost controller), and ECU controlled boost with the Evo ECU and a fuel pressure solenoid, and I hold around 30psi, with a slight dip around 6300 and then it goes right back up.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

I'm gonna go ahead and say, that if you want 400whp on 93oct pump gas, you're going to have to spend some dough on a nice 35r sized turbo.

It just IS NOT going to happen without going to an alternative fuel type on smaller turbochargers.

Also, give up on your internal wastegate idea at this point too. It's not going to cut the mustard for your prospective power levels.

True, big turbos are way easier to tune and 25psi on pump on a 35r is a walk in the park, and by then the 35r will easily be flowing 40+lb/min without breaking a sweat. But getting a 35r is expensive, maybe a good idea would be to look into a FP3065, or look into a used HTA(dont even look into a non-hta) 35r. Basically what im saying is that you might want to look into a oversized turbo. Also you might want to wait for the BILLET borg warners, i myself am a big fan of them and with addition of billet is gonna be crazy. Maybe you'd also like to invest in a meth kit.

Keep in mind that for the price of ONE of any of the above mentioned turbos, you could have a complete HOLSET setup.

Also keep in mind that the GENERAL consensus is that DSM's do not like PTE turbos.

 

[JusMX141]

I think the issue with boost control with the internal gate is the controller and the actuator.....I switched to a Holset actuator (which gives me 22 psi without any boost controller), and ECU controlled boost with the Evo ECU and a fuel pressure solenoid, and I hold around 30psi, with a slight dip around 6300 and then it goes right back up.

Without a doubt. This is why I came up with this setup which will be used on my FWD:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...oking-strong-internal-wastegate-actuator.html

The few guys that have used the ones I've build so far claim perfect boost control where their old MHI actuators gave them spikes and drops.

The only problem is most guys don't have access to the Holset actuator, don't have the ability items necessary to fabricate, and don't have the time and patience to work the bugs out of a custom-built internal actuator. External is still the best way to go for boost over 25psi.

 

[slowgsr]

I would run either a s256 or s259 in T3 with an external wastegate, 0.70a/r.

I went 130mph on pump gas and a stock engine with a s258 last season. This was in a full weight 1g awd.

 

[SvarO]

I would run either a s256 or s259 in T3 with an external wastegate, 0.70a/r.

I went 130mph on pump gas and a stock engine with a s258 last season. This was in a full weight 1g awd.

Extended or Non extended tip on the s256?

s258 is a different turbo, and too high for me.