Best cat converter and headers?

[grmoo]

What would be the better headers, and catalytic converters for me to add most power for best price? Are they all pretty much the same or does anyone have ones that prefer more than others?

 

[Tsar]

did u decide which type u gonna buy? like 4-1 or 4-2-1, first is for top end and the second is for mid range power i believe.... then u can just do a search and there are plaenty of them, u can even buy a cheap one on ebay...

 

[Knoob]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/member.php?u=26146

best headers can be found there

 

[grmoo]

How much power can I expect from new headers? I am very new to all of this.

Also from a higher flowing catalytic converter?

 

[Evolver]

i dont think you can expect any power, cause hearers and cat will not do much, you need a full exhaust for that. headers may add torque, but not hp so much.

 

[grmoo]

Alright, well, say that it were a full exhaust. How much on average could I expect from that? I am sorry if I sound retarded, I just have very little idea of what I am talking about. But am trying to learn, and understand.

 

[Evolver]

im not very shure about this, and correct me if im wrong anyone more experienced out there, but i would expet somewher between 5-9 hp if all youve done to your car is exhaust.

 

[grmoo]

Now, is that right at the crank? Or is that at the wheels?

 

[TuRBo'DTWiX]

there's lots of variables that effect how much hp you will get to the wheel
Car cond, suspension, other modifications

The bolt ons will work much better with combinations such Intake/Header/Exhaust
if i had to guess i'd say that'll net you 7hp to the wheel at most

Our N/T's dont make much power sorrie to say.. im just saving for a turbo that's where the HP is at

 

[Queue]

From what I understand, that's just to the crank! Headers will not add much power, but still will be an addition to other performance mods for greater power gains! (I'm looking for a header myself, but also confused as to which brand to purchase! Most people are telling me Greddy, but they are a pretty penny! I might be thinking Vibrant Performance headers, but everyone is also telling me that it doesn't really matter because all headers will do the same thing!)

Actually, I'd like some help myself.. which headers???

 

[Evolver]

the reason that everyone is telling you greedy, its cause its the best make, and it adds power where it is really needed in our cars, the mid rpm range, while the other 4-1 designs add to the upper rpm range.

 

[jl98]

all 4-2-1 headers are the same. all 4-1 headers are the same. metal tubing is metal tubing no matter what brand name is on it. ssautochrome and pacesetter work just as well as a greddy or other high dollar header and they leave you with money to spend on something else that actually makes a difference. like UDP's. I struggled for awhile trying to build up my gs to be fast and still be thrifty with my money. Fact is, it wasn't going to happen. we all know once we feel a little extra power from a mod, it only lasts a day or two before it turns into old news and once again we are craving more power. $200 for a CAI- maybe you get +2hp. $150-$500+ for an exhaust and maybe another +4-5hp or worse, minus a few hp (too big). $100-400+ for a header that maybe gives you +5-6 hp with supporting mods. $200-500+ for underdrive pulleys (best value!) that will give you +10-20hp with some cam gears (another $200). $50-100 for a jeep/1g throttle body for better response. add it up and you're looking at $900-1900+ and where does it get you? Same place that i was, still getting smoked by gst's, some acuras, and other embarrassments. what to do about it? get on ebay (sorry, its true) and pay anywhere from $275(lowest i've seen) to $1400(one of the higher ones) and get a hahn racecraft or star turbo kit. This install is an easy saturday project, and you will never be sorry for doing it. i got a star stage II kit for about $800 that provides 280hp at 11-13psi (manufacturers claim) and i have no reason to doubt that my car is putting at least that out. N/T's will support 300hp+ without swapping internals. I hated to hear "go turbo" too, but there is a reason everyone says it.

 

[grmoo]

Well, I have decided to go turbo anyways....but I plan on uprgading the internals first...but I see that you have a GS w/turbo, have you upraded your internals? Or is it still all stock?

 

[Queue]

jl98 ,

I hear you! Turbos will still get you quicker power with a smaller hole burnt in your pocket. But what if your car is daily driven, and you don't want to worry about too much maintenance for the turbo and engine. (From what I understand, if you want your engine to come across less problems, stick to naturally aspirated!)

 

[jl98]

yeah i have to agree that if you just want a reliable get around car then don't turbo it. but then again, this is what we dsmers live to do! we wouldn't be on this website if all of us didn't plan on getting more out of our cars, you know? and you know what, even when something does go wrong with my car and i get pissed off, by the time i get done fixing it, its just as good or better than before and i've got a smile on my face because i've been doing what i love. of course the cost of build-up/maintaining our cars sucks, but its worth it. and as far as running boost on stock internals, i've read our cars can take 300+hp reliably before you need to do anything. my kit promised 280hp and it sure feels like it. and unless the guy before me replaced rods, pistons, etc. im still on stock internals. this has worked for me so far, if anything goes wrong you guys will be the first to know.

 

[Queue]

So regarding the headers, is 4-2-1 still better than 4-1?

 

[jl98]

also, for anyone out there that doesn't have the money to turbo- for around $200 you can get a nice blower system that REALLY WORKS. If i didn't go turbo i would have went this way definitely. My friend put it in his 98 rs and it made a huge difference. Anyone that is interested should pm me your email address and i'll forward the email eric sent me. its long and it has an attachment with several pages of formulas that he put in the numbers from a 2g and calculated and came up with 31.5 hp increase. this isn't one of those tornado impellers or leaf blower crap, this is surprisingly real. seen and felt it work. plus its cool cause you can leave it on like a supercharger or you can wire it up to a pressure sensitive switch and activate it at any throttle position you want. just trying to be helpful

 

[Queue]

jl98,

..forgive me,..."blower"... what is that?

 

[jl98]

in my opinion the 4-2-1 is better simply because n/t's don't really pick up until around 3000 or so and that sucks. n/t's low end sucks and 4-1 is just gonna make it suck more.
4-1 might be better on the high end, but n/t's are already ok above 3k anyway. CAI already helped you pick it up on the high end right? notice your car goes from 40-100+ alot quicker with it on? hell sometimes mine even picked up the rpms "too fast" (hard to describe). plus who needs more high end anyway when you can just remove the speed limiter and it will go faster than you ever need it to?

 

[jl98]

send me your email address and i'll forward it to you. its long as hell and he describes it much better than me plus he's got pages of mathematical formulas to back it up. you'll notice when you get it, my original email to him on the very bottom asking for the info and told him not to try and bs me. i took his word for it and bought two and my friends car has a very noticeable increase in power. it's not as strong as a gst, but its the cheapest 31 ponies he'll ever see.

 

[Evolver]

y dont you just post it on here so everone else can see what your are talking about also?

 

[jl98]

i'd love to post it here but it's several pages long with attachments and all. im not a computer guy so im not sure if i can link off my own email or not?

 

[adgators99]

that article is way to long to post, it is very, very informative and definitley helps. If you want to stay n't it's the way to go

 

[adgators99]

Ok, as requested, I copied it and pasted it along with added the atachment so here you go, you are all welcome. Special thanks to jl98

__________________________________________________________________________
On a 98 eclipse non turbo you can expect a 30 to 40 horse gain if you install the FULL SYSTEM…



Sorry about the picture in the description...but that IS AN actual picture of the blower

motor. It was scanned right off of a pamphlet sent to me by the manufacturer...(well, it's

a WHITE BLOWER on a WHITE BACKGROUND, so it didn't show much definition) so, I inked in the

very faint lines and rescanned...it turned out alot better... but looks like it could be

hand-drawn...NOT TRUE, that's the actual blower.



I'm sending an attatchment along with this email. Please open the file up and study it.

It was sent to me by the manufacturer of these blowers. It will further explain the

fundamentals of blower technology...and give you some insight as to what to expect as far as

PSI ratings and pressure & horsepower gains for ONE and TWO blower systems. The average gain

in horsepower is between 30 to 40 horse...but, a few have reported up to a 50 horse gain.



MY civic set-up (damn I NEVER even considered taking pics during that install) but this

wasn't ANYTHING I intended to sell to anyone until I ran it for awhile on that HONDA.

Everyone on the net wants to see pictures of the system on the civic... well, here's the

story...

Do you know the stock airbox placement on a newer civic? Well, UNDER the stock air-box there

is a 4" inch factory HOLE for that factory system to draw cooler air from the passenger side

fender-well. What I did was mount two of these blowers together INLINE... put screening on

the end of the first blower for a makeshift filter, bolted the whole set-up to the

bottom-side of that hole ( so that the blowers pull air in from the bottom of the wheelwell

and blow UP through the hole... mounted vertically) then, on the top-side of that hole, I

fabbed' a 4" to 3" reducer that I made out of aluminum in my chopper shop, and connected

that to the "system" THROUGH the hole, then ran 3" aluminum tubing to the Helix-style /

holley throttle spacer (power tower) Between the blower set-up and the power tower...I

drilled two holes for a NOS system to put the injectors/sprayers in the aluminum tubing.

Needless to say, as per the description, I don't intend to rip my fender and system BACK

off of my car to take a couple of pics. and then put it all back together again. I guess I

don't have, or want to take, the time to go rip my car up when it's NOT broken. I have

enough things to fix, work on, and do at my businesses without taking the time for that

un-necessary project. I'm sure you understand that. It's NOT worth my time...sorry if that

offends ANYBODY. I never even considered to take pictures of the civic while it was tore

apart, but unless the system BREAKS for some reason and I need to replace a blower motor

or something ( which I doubt will happen anytime soon, they have a three year factory

warranty on them) I DON'T have any intention on taking my car apart for a photo session.

I'd rather keep the shop bays OPEN, we're always booked for weeks anyway.





Please be careful... whether you buy this system from me or not...Theres ALOT of

"JERKS" out there that have seen my system, read my reviews and feedback, and have

deserately TRIED to find ANYTHING that resembles what I sell...I guess they figure since my

"system" has been SOOO successful...they'd like to "PLAY" off of my "great idea" and put

up a bunch of auctions on ebay.

They'll sell you blowers for $49.00 and free shipping...toss in a free "CHIP"...or sell you

"PLANS" on how to build a system for $4.00 ( and in the email he sends you, it totals up to

costing you approx. $110.00 in parts for 220 cfm ??? Again,...WON'T WORK )

It's crazy. They just started doing this last week...but they're gonna give

MY SYSTEM a bad name if a bunch of people buy thier blowers...

cause they're NOT GONNA WORK right, and people are gonna be pissed and say that the "system"

doesn't work...but that's what you get sometimes when you try to save $20.00. If you really

want a system like this that works...would you rather have something that doesn't work at

ALL for $50.00 (with free shipping and a "chip") or something that actually does the job for

$25.00 more...see what I mean?





All I need you to know and understand is that...IF you're not gonna buy this set-up from me,

DO NOT GET ONE AT ALL! I PROMISE you that you'll be sorry you spent the $4.00 for the

emailed plans, or the $49.99 for the "fan and chip". CAUSE NEITHER of that stuff works on

your car. I'm NOT saying that you HAVE to get MY supercharger system ...I'M JUST

TELLING YOU THAT YOU'LL BE VERY UPSET WITH THE $$$ YOU WASTED IF YOU BUY THE OTHER ONES !

( and I'll just have to sit back and 'giggle'...cause I try to warn EVERYBODY that emails

me.) Do yourself a favor and study up on this BEFORE you purchase one of these systems from

anybody...then check the ebay FRAUD division and Safe Harbor division, and check PAY-PAL's

fraud division... see how many reports have been filed and are pending... BET you buy your

system from ME ( and ONLY me ) and NOT the "squirell fans" for $159.99 ...

or the "free CHIP and shipping" fan for $49.99 ... or the $4.00 emailed plans that tell you

to "go out and buy $110.00 worth of "CRAP" at LOWES or HOME DEPOT" that won't do a friggin

thing on your car...???

(are you following me here...I truely HOPE that you listen, I mean...yeah,

it's only $4.00...but the whole point is...that you're giving some aSSW-oel your $4.00 for

no reason. If you just wanna give $$$ away... AT LEAST get the "write-off" for giving it

to CHARITY or something useful... don't just give $4 to some dude for what the hell.



I need you to know something, OK...and please listen to me...theres a lot of "crap" on ebay

and I've bought a lot of it just to "try it out" and get the latest coolest IDEA out there",

and I'm usually disappointed with what I get when it arrives, ya know? ALOT of it's junk,

only half of it works...(it's usually the wrong size, color, or it's broken in some way...

or just NOT what I friggin' ordered AT ALL). Heres the honest REAL reason that I put these

blowers up for auction... cause I saw the electric superchargers that these "goof-troops"

were selling on ebay and thought about it. They really want $150.00 ???...and DO they REALLY

work? I mean, REALLY?

I thought about buying one! That's how good the IDEA is... $150.00 though ???...

And I got to thinking...If I'm thinking about buying one (cause it really is a GREAT idea,

and theoretically COULD work with the right blowers) how many people are thinking the same

thing?...so I started studying the WHOLE idea and working ALL of the angles, and when I got

done figuring...I came to the conclusion that there was NO WAY in hell that the blowers that

"these fellas" were selling for $150.00 could, or would, actually work for this application.

Not enough cfm getting to the intake at zero inches of static pressure...so, I started

looking for the blowers that THEY were selling by checking with all of the manufacturers.

I thought maybe I could find a high-pressure blower that put out more cfm and double stack

them ( and by stacking them it would double the psi boost of the second blower ) and I found

out that the "150 cfm / squirell-cage fans" that I ALMOST bought, only cost about

$20.00... (so, of course, then I was pissed AND disappointed) thinking to myself...

"I just about got JACKED on ebay again."



It's really NOT about the money...it's about the fact that I figured out HOW to make this

IDEA work by finding the right blowers, and I want everyone that has been thinking

of getting "something" LIKE this for their car to have a chance to get something that

actually works, at a reasonable price. My father designs lazers with MIT and NASA, and my

wife has been an engineer for over ten years now...and it took us 7 weeks to find the right

blowers for this purpose that could do the job correctly. I KNOW that the other guys that

are selling blowers JUST found ANY-DAMN-THING that looked like what I'm selling and put out

some air...just looking some "quick cash"

... yes, the blowers that I'm selling COST more. (I mean, more than the $20 these

other fellas are spending to get their blowers), but mine actually DO what they are supposed

to do...in short...they create actual boost to your motor.

I have a passion for creating things ( you know, one of the kids that spent A LOT of time

with toys like LEGOS ) and I like challenges, I'm getting about 320 horsepower out of one

of my little Hondas with a 1.6 SOHC...( just for "shits and grins") and this blower system

has a lot to do with that. If you install it properly, you should get good GAINS out of your

car...if you wanna "pin me down" and have me gaurantee you a certain amount of actual

horse-power ratings...you're beat...that would literally be impossible to do...

TELL YOU WHAT...

( maybe you could call me and back your vehicle up to the phone... and rev it up a few times

so that I could hear how well your motor is running ??? That's rediculous right?

Well, so is someone asking me to gaurantee horse-power ratings on THEIR car, sight unseen,

over the internet's email. It's impossible...there's TOO many variables and every motor is

different.



Ever notice how a smaller CID motor always has problems getting into its POWER range?

0 to 3500 is pretty much a large dead-spot... after that, from about 4000 to 8000 RPM it's

great. That's the "sweet-zone" for a four or six cylinder motor. A motor NEEDS approx.

85 - 90 cfm to operate properly, per 1000 RPM, some need a little more and some a little

less per RPM. So, if this system were to run at full throttle ( approx. 500 to 520 cfm ) it

would cover the RPM range up to about 6000 RPM. And the ONLY way that you'll have enough

cfm being FORCED into the motor up to 5800 rpm is to run two of these blowers together

"piggy-backed" inline. There's other fellas on ebay right now selling 150 cfm systems for

$159.99 like Jason Jones and the "crx-man" These two "fellas" SAW MY system, READ my

feedback, CHECKED the reviews from my feedback... & somehow contacted my buyers and found

out the system is working great for them. So now these "goof-troops" have started selling

"some kind" of 240 cfm blower and they'll give you a "free chip" and shipping for $49.99,

and the other one will email you some plans ( and they'll tell you to go and buy a bunch of

junk that'll run about $110.00 ) for $4.00. I've talked to Jason and Brian both about this

"system" they have on ebay right now. I was pissed, cause it won't work...and people are

gonna buy the damn things and be pissed...and will think that ALL set-ups are rip-offs.

That sucks. Because the other systems are only going to give a car up to 200 cfm ???

Which means that even IF thay have found the correct blower ( and between the fraud reports

and lack of intellegence...I KNOW THEY DID NOT research this properly ) but, EVEN IF they

HAVE FOUND the right blowers...their system is only going to slightly enhance power up to

2500 rpm... and if they DID the research...they'd KNOW THAT ( not that they'd actually tell

you that), and they'll swear to a 30 horse gain from just ONE blower...which is an out-N-out

lie... and for $50.00 to $110.00, that really sucks ass.





Heres the basics in a very UN-technical NUTSHELL:

More cold-air = More horse...and heres basically how...

I ALWAYS suggest TWO high-pressure blowers...NOT because of sales...but because of the

ACTUAL way this system is designed...TWO 4" blowers is really very essential to the gains

in MORE HORSEPOWER and PSI BOOST. One blower pulls in 240 cfm and begins "spinning it"...

then it directly hits the second blower that is attached to the first blower...the second

blower pulls another 240 cfm, creating 500+ cfm of high-pressure air. Controlling

this air and directing it to the 3" ID intake tube that runs to your intake. The second

blower actually will DOUBLE the psi boost of the the first unit by mating them together

INLINE.

This high-pressure air is "tornado-ing" at a velocity of high RPM. By controlling the

direction of the air and shoving it through a tube...the vortexing air is basically getting

RAMMED down your intake tube. Heres where it starts to get a little messy...the 500+ cfm of

vortexing and compressed air THEN gets shoved through a reducer and to your intake inlet

( 4" to 3" reducer ) By "squeezing" and further compressing this amount of pressure through

an even SMALLER inlet...it's gonna spin faster and get even more compression and pressurized.

This ANGRY TORNADO of compressed and boosted air is going to hit your Manifold Absolute

Pressure sensor (or MAP sensor) and also come across your Mass Air Flow sensor as an "error"

because of the extreme increase of air-flow (sometimes setting off your CHECK ENGINE light

on your dash...can't be helped?) The sensors are going to send this INFORMATION to your

vehicles computer, and it should adjust for the error to fix it...by increasing your

fuel ratio and fuel-pressure to the intake, and adjusting the "spark" to detonate it all.

"TAHH-DAHH !" and there you have it...MORE AIR and MORE FUEL getting rammed into your motor,

and improved spark to blow it all up.

That's the basics...



But heres where I don't know what to do...yes the system has worked for me & the customers

that have brought their cars to my shop...but, these cars that got "this system" were all

in good-mechanical condition, and already had a couple high performance MODS on them.

(Like a cold air intake, or a header, or cam gears...just little bolt on stuff...

What happens if I sell one to someone that has little (or NO) technical knowledge AT ALL...

and their car is a piece of trash???? You know what I mean? What if the person that buys

one of these "systems" from me over ebay has a ...

(lets say for example):

a 150,000 miles worn out piece of junk...with the catalatic converter ALL plugged-up,

or the O2 sensors shot, or it's got NO compression left, egr going bad, or one

of the computers is "down" on the car...or the check engine light comes on now and again

because the computer is sporadically reading "FUEL DELIVERY ERROR" and the damn fuel pump is

only sending out about 1/2 of the pressure occasionally because it's about to "go out"...or

one of the valves is bad, or stuck, and is going to drop soon... or the MASS-AIR is

acting-up, crank-trigger computer/no fire??? ( and so on, and so on, and so on)

I'm the type of guy, that if I sell these things...I feel that they need to work for the

people that buy them...but I just know in my heart that a GOOD PORTION of the people that I

sell these to, are gonna put them on a car that NEEDED to be taken apart and had something

fixed a long time ago (or even ALOT of "things" fixed) ...YOU KNOW what I'm saying? I mean,

a lot of kids are gonna drop this system in a RAGGED-out & WELL used import, one that has

been "raced and tore-up" by the last three people that have owned it...

and then guess what???... I'm gonna get NEGATIVE feedback, BAD emails, and a bunch of crap

from more than half of my "BUYERS" about the fact that the "super-charger set-up" that I

sold them "IS A PIECE OF JUNK, AND DIDN'T WORK THE WAY IT WAS SUPPOSED TO ON THE CAR."

So now, I'm looking like just another one of ebay's CON ARTISTS / RIP-OFF GUYS that is

selling a "bad product".

I think that Sucks. I don't wanna be THAT guy. I've got a good reputation. My business is

well referred ( even though it's small and in the middle of NOWHERE Kansas ) I've had some

MY VEHICLES featured in seven different nationally publicated magazines at some point or

another. I don't want my EBAY customers, or any of my other customers' to think bad of me

or my business...it would really bother the hell out of me.



The blowers can run any way that you conceivably wire them...the very coolest way I think

is to find a pressure sensitive switch and rig it up to that, ( almost like a sewing machine

pedal, the harder you push the faster it runs...although nobody has done that yet to my

knowledge. ) I'll send you a diagram on how to install a simple "ON and OFF" toggel to it...

but if you know someone that is handy with wiring in the least bit, you can go to Radio

Shack and get a throttle switch. (same type of switch used to shoot NOS ) that's the way

mine is. I turn "ON" the system with a toggel on my dash, and the system is on "STAND-BY",

it's armed, powered and ready to go, but until I MASH MY FOOT-FEED to the floor...it just

stays ARMED and does nothing except tornado's the air...only when the foot-feed hits the

floor will the system "kick- ON" and blow 500 to 520 cfm. I think that this is the best way

to do it. And when the system is OFF completely, it STILL tornados the air coming into the

intake much like a $90.00 Holley / Helix Power Tower does...( look up that on ebay to

understand...Helix throttle-body spacer ) and that alone is worth 15 to 20 horse supposedly

( according to Holley / Helix ) By the way, if you don't run two of these...yes you'll get

some noticable power increases from off of the line to about 2700 RPM...but you'll be

somewhat disappointed if you're looking for ALOT of GAIN by running just one blower. Every

4 cyl car needs 85 to 90 cfm going to the motor to operate properly...unfortunately, the

factory system has to DRAG and PULL it out of the air through the intake...the thing that

will really make your motor performance oriented, is the fact that THIS SYSTEM pushes that

necessary air down the throat of your motor and RAMS it through the intake tube. 240 cfm

alone is only good for power gains up to 2700 RPM...when you double the blowers and stack

them "piggy-back" and INLINE, that creates MORE THAN DOUBLE the rated cfm of each blower

according to the manufacturer, and doubles the psi boost of the second blower. (so it's

really somewhere between 500 to 520 cfm total) and at a required 90 cfm per 1000 RPM,

that means this system is a power performer to about 6000 rpm...and at 3500 to 7000 RPM is

where your motor picks up its true horsepower range anyway...it's called the "sweet zone"

cause on smaller displacement motors...they're pretty lame up to about 3500 RPM ( not much

power there...unless you REV it and dump the clutch...and then again, the whole reason a

person DOES that is to get the motor up to 3500 RPM or better. RIGHT?









WOW...little too much information...LOOK at this email, it's a damn book. Oh well,

someone to talk to...

I guess it really doesn't really matter if you like me or don't like me...and

whether you know me or don't know me...the point is: I'll send you some instructions, and

hope your car has a good motor in it and runs great, if so...it should work super! ...

I know that the system works cause I run one, and mine works fine...although my car is

"NOT STOCK", and I don't use it as an "every-day driver" a daily driver. ( Friday or

Saturday nights, just "raising a little hell"...doin'a little street-racing & fun-runnin'

...you know? ) but the system always performs (& WELL) every time I need it to.



Back to: "how much do you know about motors??? If you buy this system, I will send you:



-- a detailed list of the basic 3 to 5 items you'll need to get at the hardware store...

($25 or less, depends on your car and where you want the blowers mounted...

( 4" to 3" reducer, a certain type of switch, couple of 12 ga. wires...etc.etc.etc.)



AND you'll get very simple, easy to read, and diagramed instructions on "HOW-TO."

Tell you this, if you DON'T already have an after-market air intake of some kind on your

vehicle...you'll wanna buy a CHEAP one for $18.00 on ebay, so you can use the 3" aluminum

tubing and filter designed to fit YOUR car to mount this blower to. It's ALOT easier &

cheaper than getting the aluminum and building one for your vehicle.





Heres more technical information: (asside from the MASSIVE amounts of info. that is in my

auction description) and some of the spec's of this model of HIGH-PRESSURE/high cfm

HIGH-VELOCITY 4" ID INLINE BLOWER:

-The housing is made out of an ULTRA hard ABS/resin mix, of course it's water-proof and heat

resistant up to 170 degrees...

-The impeller is made out of a high-heat ABS/PVC resin mix,

-The bearings are made for extreme-use, high heat, and are self-lubricating,

-The unit functions properly when mounted vertically or horizontally,

-It's designed to run off of a 12V vehicle electrical system,

-One unit will flow approx. 240 cubic foot per minute ( cfm ) of air

-It uses only 4.3 amps to run the blower at "full open" cfm blow,

-It has a 7 amp fuse,

-The inlet and outlet are both 4" ID ( inner diameter measurement ),

-The total dimensions overall are: 5 1/4" tall, X 4 3/16" wide, X 6" long,

-The blower unit weighs only 1.3 lbs.



I need to remind you that the manufacturer themselves designed this blower to handle the

conditions that you're gonna use it for...I have to SPECIAL ORDER these things...you CAN

NOT get them just ANY OLD PLACE. They are EXTREMELY difficult to get ahold of and find. I

have six left, and more "ON ORDER" being built for me to install, use, or sell...they'll

be to my shop, SOON !?!



Well, (and I'm not trying to be snotty), but this COULD be the only email I return to you,

Every day, I've been getting 40 to 50 emails, and everyone has to know EVERYTHING, otherwise

they just can't wrap their brain around "THIS SYSTEM" & understand what's going on...so I

try to answer everyones email...everyday...but the time it takes is extreme. I have done

my best to explain, and provide HOARDS of information for you to take care of your

curiosity... (More so than

anyone else on ebay is willing to over one particular item...I'm almost completely positive

of that) this system comes with NO warranty, gaurantee & NO returns. This is THE REASON...

BECAUSE: WHO KNOWS...(& it never fails)...someone will surely put these blowers on their

vehicle facing backwards...and instead of BLOWING 240 to 500 cfm of air into their motor and

creating a really cool supercharger for their car...they'll end up SUCKING all of the air

and fuel out of their intake at an extremely high rate of speed like a DAMN HOOVER...

(it's gonna be halarious!)...

but then they'll "piss and wine" to ebay, Pay-Pal, and their attorney... and claim that I

sold them a REALLY bad system and it ruined their vehicle, so they need 6.2 million in

damages.......do you understand what I mean?

BUT, I'll personally test EVERY blower that I ship out to make sure that is works before

I ship it to you. Seriously.



thanks for the read:

Gotta-go, spent too much time here, but I hope I answered any of your questions or concerns.

(I've got three business' and eight kids...and a desk-full of paperwork and emails to deal

with.)

Eric Srack

 

[jl98]

awesome! thanks for helping the computer challenged.