best headers for 420a 95 talon

[pazsion]

Not hard? have you ever worked on a car yourself? it ain't easy buddy!

Honing out a stock exhaust does 2 things.. makes it lighter, makes it bigger. But if you take out too much, it makes it way too weak. There are some areas that you can tweak and mess with to get various gains as well, that a prefab (bolt-on "upgrades") exhaust, just won't have.

Getting it ceramic coated inside and out, will prevent corrosion and further increase, velocity of flow / less resistance. And improve thermal dynamics.

 

[brandonwh64]

Not hard? have you ever worked on a car yourself? it ain't easy buddy!

Honing out a stock exhaust does 2 things.. makes it lighter, makes it bigger. But if you take out too much, it makes it way too weak. There are some areas that you can tweak and mess with to get various gains as well, that a prefab (bolt-on "upgrades") exhaust, just won't have.

Getting it ceramic coated inside and out, will prevent corrosion and further increase, velocity of flow / less resistance. And improve thermal dynamics.

It would also be a waist of time. the biggest power adder we have are turbos and installing theses are good to about 8PSI but after that it would call for a forged build. I see you want to make a N/T motor with as much HP as possible but the only one I have see is bulletDSMs 218WHP drag car. His car will do low 13's but its not just the motor that helps with that. He also has suspension, transmission, and tuning down to a science when it comes to racing.

All in all, I think you are going a little over board with the theory of exhaust and how it can make your car faster. It would be best to either get a Ebay cat back or Ebay header and be done with it unless you plan on turboing your car at one point.

*EDIT*

I just noticed this thread was started in 2008 by the OP. By now you should have either found your exhaust and tested it out.

 

[twicks69]

OP, you seriously have to learn a bit more about effective automotive performance instead of trying to grasp your ideas about concepts you clearly don't know enough about.

You have absolutely no need to ceramic coat the inside and outside of your exhaust manifold for your application. You are not trying to keep thermal energy as hot and as "fast" as possible like you would want with a turbocharged or rotary vehicle.

If you want a performance header for your vehicle, go buy a 4-2-1 header and a 2.25" exhaust. Run stainless 304 for the manifold, and if you want to be as "light as possible", run a 2.25" straight back aluminum exhaust. If you are intending on running a catalytic converter, use a high-flow 2.25" converter and then a 2.25" diameter exhaust. At your power levels, you will never outflow a 2.25" diameter exhaust. Heck, a 2.5" diameter exhaust on a 4G63T-powered DSM can still flow 500whp, 3" can flow 800whp, and 3.5" and larger can flow significantly more depending on configuration and back pressure.

In an N/A car you would want to maximize VE by doing several things including:
*Increase displacement
*Increase compression or effective compression ratio depending on application and fuel used.
*Increase airflow
*Increase fuel capacity
*Decrease exhaust back pressure (you still want some on an N/A application)
*Nitrous is your friend. Go learn more about it and the modifications required to run it.
*Good engine management and a professional dyno-tune by an experienced tuner.

There is absolutely no way in hell you are going to rev a 420A motor to 12,000 rpm for several reasons.
1) Your rod ratio - with stock rod ratio you will send a rod flying so fast you won't know what happened.
2) Your valvetrain - you will valve float so fast you won't know what happened again.
3) Your motor won't make any power past 8000rpm even if you had SERIOUS cams, intake manifold, high compression built motor on good fuel (methanol/E98/V
P NOS/VP Import, etc), darn good head, and a darn good tune. There are exceptions to this comment, but it is on heavily built setups running high compression with big cams and a built head with other supporting mods.
4) Go and actually research. There are a few 420A non-turbo Eclipses putting out some decent numbers N/A. Not many, and it wasn't done on the cheap. Why don't you look at what they are doing? You can always check out other platforms for ideas or information such as the Neon community, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Avenger, etc.

As for the carbon fiber tubing for use in an exhaust system, please don't waste your time. There is a difference between ricer tips and actual function.

This thread is even worse than the carbon fiber brakes thread that was just locked.

 

[Myndvast]

can someone just answer this really fast.. okay... is a 4-2-1 good for low end and is a 4-1 header good for top end? or is it the other way around. on a stock 420a what do you guys recommend is the best 1 to get??? or it doesnt really matter which 1 you get only where you want the power?

Ok Look... I just received and installed a DC Sports 4-2-1 Ceramic Header to my 95 Eagle Talon ESi. I have a custom intake and free flow muffler already at this stage. Its been about 4 days or so and here is what I've realized:

The 4-2-1 allows or enables my car to rev without visible restriction on the tach. Gears 1, 2, and 3 all respond by revingup to 5.5 rpm really quickly compared to stock (which was a 4-1). Gear 4 Revs about half fast and slows considerably at the top end. When you shift into 5th gear, the rpms rarely rise at all, but by that time you are at 100 mph.

Is it faster on the bottom end than before... sorta. It is a whole lot smoother than stock throuout the entire powerband - super smooth. I wouldn't say it jumps off the line like mine did stock, but once rolling its picks up continuously for the 1st 3 gears and then the response falls sharply.

In short if you are looking to move fast from 0 to 80 then 4-2-1 is for you. If you are looking to push it past 100 quickly, then go 4-1.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I think we're done here...