balance shaft delete help please

[dap1991gsx]

hey guys i need your help if you wouldn't mind i just recently got my project 1991 gsx running but im not having like any oil pressure and its safe to assume its on account for the fact that i removed the rear(lower) balance shaft and just built the motor with out it now that ive looked into it i see they sell kits like this

Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

but my motor and car is now fully built and i dont wanna tear it all apart again is there a way i can get oil pressure without taking my just built motor as apart?

help please i built this car from nothing its beautiful and surprisingly enough even on first start up runs like a gem strange because anything that can be deleted is and im running an aftermarket fuel management, bov, and mbc besides that im waiting for all other bolt-ons i have for after its been running while

 

[Snot Rocket]

To the OP. You posted this on DSM Talk and you said you ran the engine for 3 min. I don't care how much prelube you used on your rod and main bearings they are probable trashed now.
I will give you the same advice I gave you on Talk. Pull the engine put it back on the stand. Tear it apart again and check all bearings, clean out all the shavings the oil pump threw everywhere, and do the BSE the right way.
Three min. is way to long with out oil pressure. You will be real lucky if you didn't spin a rod bearing.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

If he has oil shavings ANYWHERE, the entire shortblock should be torn down and hot-tanked and then re-assembled

 

[dap1991gsx]

just ordered a New Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit - 90-99 from dsm graveyard so i'm going to just take the face plate off install the kit the way you guys insisted. I will inspect my oil pump and face plate once removed, if damaged i have a spare used one to replace it. I'm just going to go ahead and assume there wont be any bearing failure or any sorta metal shavings because i know the inside of the block and the rod bearings and stuff must dip into the oil and lubricate enough, the 3 mins i said was an exaggeration it was only ran enough to know there was no oil pressure and i stopped once i realized.
just a foolish mistake haha

 

[Alex7747]

I used to weld them. Now i just run a 7x1.0 tap thru the end where it was cut and thread a bolt into it right, with loctite, cut it off flush with the end of the shaft and stake it in with a punch. No heat to distort the shaft.

i tried that the first time but i wasn't feeling to confident in the bolt holding in there, so i took it to a friends house and his dad welded it for me. to me it just seems safer. the first stubby shaft i ever used seized up on me and trashed my first motor rebuild .

OP, make sure the stubby shaft you bought has an oil grove so the shaft gets lubricated or that shaft WILL seize on you...also i high recommend a new pump and taring your motor apart for inspection.

 

[aj2494]

Don't risk the shavings ruining something. From what I can tell, it sounds like there is no way you don't have loose shavings.

 

[WES_393]

I'm just going to go ahead and assume there wont be any bearing failure or any sorta metal shavings because i know the inside of the block and the rod bearings and stuff must dip into the oil and lubricate enough, the 3 mins i said was an exaggeration it was only ran enough to know there was no oil pressure and i stopped once i realized.

Since Talk is so full of "douchebags" you probably won't be back to see any of the advice we all gave you. Running an enging AT ALL with ZERO oil pressure will ruin the bearings. Period. The bearings are not lubricated by the oil in the pan, they are 100% lubricated by oil pressure. The assembly lube is only good for the first 5-10 seconds an engine is running which is just long enough for oil to be circulated through the entire engine. I highly suggest you at least pull the rod caps off and inspect the bearings, that can be done through the pan. If they're overheated, then the mains are too.

And maybe you should start listening to peoples advice rather than waiting for an answer you want to hear. Multiple people on BOTH threads mentioned that you need a BS elimination kit, yet you kept asking what to do about your situation.

 

[LunarEclips]

From what i remember you don't have to do anything with the bearing in the back, since that rear shaft gets fed through the hollow part down to the bearing there is no oil hole on that bearing.

For the op, you have a lot of work ahead of you for this simple mistake. You have to pull the oil pan off and then the front case. Inspect the the front case and gear, but as bryanwheat has mentioned that whole assembly is probably junk since there was no shaft to support the gear.

Also, you must use REDLOCTITE on the stubby shaft bolt or it will come loose and you and torque to proper spec, and as others have said make sure to get the correct stub shaft with the groove in the middle.

In the BSE kit, there is two bearings provided, one for the oil pump shaft and one for the other silent shaft. Alot of people leave the other silent shaft in place floating rather than removing it and doing the work. It just depends on the person. But if stubby is installed in place of the original oil pump shaft, the bearing DOES need to be clocked.

 

[bryanwheat]

In the BSE kit, there is two bearings provided, one for the oil pump shaft and one for the other silent shaft. Alot of people leave the other silent shaft in place floating rather than removing it and doing the work. It just depends on the person. But if stubby is installed in place of the original oil pump shaft, the bearing DOES need to be clocked.

This is incorrect. The rear shaft that is driven by the pump gets it's oil from a passage in the shaft from the oil pump. There is NO oil hole in the block for the rear shaft. There is no reason to do anything with the rear bearing. There is nothing to block off. The 2 bearings in the kit are for the front shaft.

 

[WES_393]

But if stubby is installed in place of the original oil pump shaft, the bearing DOES need to be clocked.

How do you clock a bearing that doesn't have an oil passage? WTF

 

[dap1991gsx]

Hey guy thought I'd post another message on this. I installed the stubby shaft last night it went smooth on my lift the gears, face plate, and oilpump are all fine I had no metal shavings and I inspected the bearings there fine thanks for all the help again and I did end up leaving the font/upper shaft in just for obvious reason I think it will be fine there hope this helps some else try to perform this delete just don't do it the way I went about it haha.