Baer big brakes

[PaulPDX]

anyone know how bad it will be if i have baer in the front and stocks in the back?

Was more of a response to that than your post. Relax.

i know teh fronts do 90% of the braking as it is.

So you already knew the answer. Rears don't matter much and can remain stock. If the rear brakes were so good that they lock up under braking before the fronts lock up... then you'd have a problem. Not going to happen with stock rear brakes unless you use the e-brake.

 

[gsxstac]

Was more of a response to that than your post. Relax.



So you already knew the answer. Rears don't matter much and can remain stock. If the rear brakes were so good that they lock up under braking before the fronts lock up... then you'd have a problem. Not going to happen with stock rear brakes unless you use the e-brake.

damn dude, could you give me a response in any more of a dick way???

 

[PaulPDX]

damn dude, could you give me a response in any more of a dick way???

Damn dude, could you have read into it with any more of a paranoid "everyone is out to get me" way???

Meant nothing more than what I said to the word. Christ. See a shrink.

 

[gsxstac]

i'm not paranoid, but it seemed like you said it in a way like i already knoew so i shouldnt be asking.

whatever the case may be sorry if you didnt mean it like that and i do appreciate the help

 

[HALO1]

Here is a VERY good article on braking in general that I've posted before:

http://scirocco.dyndns.org/faq/brakes/pulpfriction/pfpage1.html

Also, I'm going to quote Jtoby here, because he's basically right on (and he's smarter than me):

"Oh, com'on, Chuckles, you don't need no stinking book. Take the CG height and divide it by the wheelbase and multiply by acceleration (in gs) and mass. It's the same as lateral transfer (CG height divided by track times gs times mass).

Defiant: when less weight transfers, you have relatively more rear grip when braking, at least compared to before. So, to keep all four tires at their limit when braking, you need to move some braking bias (as measured in torque, for you purists) to the rear. So, on a lowered DSM, you want to either soften the decompression ratio, up the mu of the rear pads, or increase the rear rotor diameter.

Take a look at some recent magazine tests of braking systems. I recall one case where upgrading the fronts INCREASED braking distance. Fortunately, the writer knew why and said so: the car was now so front-biased that the rears where no longer helping to stop the car.

This is why working with someone like Todd at TCE is so important when planning a brake upgrade. Todd knows how to keep the bias correct and - if you ask - he can help you to shift the bias around. (No, I don't work with Todd - in fact, we argue a lot on the web - but I still can recognize someone smarter than I when I read what he writes.)

However, there is one other complicating point that often gets ignored. You actually do not have to do anything crazy like change the prop valve in order to shift some bias to the rear. If you merely up the pads' mu (i.e., front AND rear - for you NABR-types, the placement of that apostrophe was on purpose), then you will shift some bias to the rear. What? you say. How is that possible? Answer: you will now be spending more time below the cut-off point in the prop valve. (The cut-off point is where the prop valve stops letting the rears get the same pressure as the fronts and begins to apply the decompression ratio.) So the rears will be getting more line pressure relative to the front, which shifts some bias to the rear.

In short, if you are not cooking your fronts road racing, there is really no need to upgrade your brakes (assuming 2G AWD big brakes to start with). Just up the pads with Metal Masters (for non-LFBers) or R4-Ss (for the serious) and your lowered DSM will brake as well as you need it to. (See, I obviously don't work for Todd.)

- Jtoby"