bad idle stuttering cel code 12

[strykout88]

I have always had a problem with the idle fluctuating, i replaced my isc with one i bought off ebay and the idle stopped fluctuating but sat at around 2600 rpm. i assumed that the new isc was bad and bought a brand new one, its the old model with the plug coming out, the idle came back down and fluctuated again. It started sending the codes 12, 13 and 25, i replaced the throttle body which made the idle better temporarily but did not get rid of the codes. I cleared them and the 13 and 25 went away but the 12 is still around. I checked the plug to the maf and am getting good ground and power to it. When the scanner is plugged in i get a reading for everything in the maf except air flow. I am out of ideas any help would be greatly appreciated. The idle gets worse as the car heats up. It also stutters and breaks up around 3000 rpm which it used to do until i got it re-tuned but has recently come back. It is also running really rich. I have replaced the maf once, but i swapped with a used one.

 

[winterftbl]

Did you adjust the biss screw in the past. Because if you got a new isc, you will have to readjust the biss screw.

 

[strykout88]

I have set the biss with the old throttle body, i haven't tried that yet because i have been trying to find out how to fix the code, could the biss be the reason its throwing the code?

 

[ktmrider]

All the codes point to a bad MAF ( 12 = flow, 13 = IAT, 25 = barometric pressure ). Have you hacked or replaced your MAF? Did not see it on your mod list.

 

[strykout88]

it is the maf off of a 2g the guy before me did the work,i checked over all the wiring and all seemed correct, i replaced it once before because my old one pretty much died, but the new one was used, ill try finding another used or just buy a brand new one, do you know of a good place to get new ones for a good price?

 

[ktmrider]

I would look in the classified section, there are always a few of them around since the 2g folks like the 3g or GM models ( even more flow ). Make sure it's un-hacked.
One last thing, how is the MAF wired? If the previous owner modified a pigtail for plug-and-play on the 1g plug there could be some soldering or connection issues. Check the FVAQ for the proper wiring, www.vfaq.com, it's an awesome site and should be bookmarked in your browser IMHO.

 

[strykout88]

the wiring is not the plug and play style, the old wires were directly soldered, i took off the heatshrink on every wire and checked to make sure there were no issues, thanks for the help ill let u know how changing the maf works. also what is a "hacked" maf?

 

[ktmrider]

the wiring is not the plug and play style, the old wires were directly soldered, i took off the heatshrink on every wire and checked to make sure there were no issues, thanks for the help ill let u know how changing the maf works. also what is a "hacked" maf?

Sorry, I missed the last part.
"Hacking" refers to removing the honeycomb mesh in front of the sensor to increase airflow. Sometimes when adding mods the MAF cannot flow enough air across the sensor ( thin wire or bulb ) and they get fuel cut.
The mesh collimates or smoothes the air going around the sensor which keeps it from fluctuating due to turbulence.
Cheap mod vs upgrading the MAF.