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[CrawlinZX14]

So im coming back to DSM's after about 8 years. I had an 89 GSX 5speed car when I was 20ish and my ex fiance sold that on me saying I loved the car more than her. She was RIGHT. So this last week my current fiance and I went out and I picked up a 91 Talon TSi. The good so far is that this car seems to be pretty clean body wise. The interior is in semi rough shape. A lot of the dash panels are falling apart (Pulling away from the metal). The engine runs fairly well and has had all the "free" mods done by the looks of it, but its choppy at best.

Now for the bads of the car. it was owned by a kid. So im guessing its been beat on. Its auto. I have a hell of a squeal/squeak coming from the belts area. It lost the ac compressor belt apparently, but I cant tell if the sound is from the idler pulley or in the timing belt area. I am fearing the timing area however. Under boost the car breaks up. About 5k rpm it will start to sputter like im hitting fuel cut. Nothing is knocking, and I have checked my piping and it seems like its holding pressure (stock pipes). I do have the standard DSM oil leaks too. Oil dip stick, fill cap, and looks like valve cover gasket.

For now its going to be a daily driven car, but I have plans for its future. I think im going to be buying a MAFT-PRO and running a MAP system on it. Mainly so I dont have to recirculate the air coming out of the turbo. I have had issues before on other model cars where particles will get into that turbo and cause issues, so swapping to a map is normally one of my first modifications. I will post up some pix later of it when I can get some taken. all in all the car isnt BAD, but its def going to be a money pit i am sure.

It has a turbo back exhaust on it, and a new maf to turbo tube (metal one.) My biggest issue right now is that she is breaking up under boost right now, and I have one hell of a loud squeal from under the hood. Any input would be great on the noise. Temp is supposedly good based on OEM gauge and has great heat, so I dont think its the water pump. Its def not the alt, and there is no change in pitch when I turn the wheels so im pretty sure its not the power steering. I have to check the top end still where the cam saddles are with my stethescope to see if thats the issue, but im thinking its either the auto tensioner pulley for the timing set, or the idler pulley on the front of the engine. I am a little fearful its timing however because of the breakup under boost.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Very nice! Post some pics?

 

[turbodude]

Nice, welcome back to the DSM community. I don't know if you have done a boost leak test or not but sometimes with the symptoms you are describing it could be the cause especially if it happens under higher boost levels. i'd start with that as it's pretty much the easiest thing to do and won't cost you allot. May fix it, may not... but at least you know.

As for the squeaking/squealing. I'll bet it's either the belts themselves that need replacing or its the idler/tension pulley. Usually it's something simple like that, i'll hope for the best in your case

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Well I want to do a timing test to see if my timing is bouncing around and helping me to verify an issue in the timing. The wire i need to ground is the white wire with the black line next to the Y of the harness on the firewall correct? Its between the cruise control box on the firewall and the battery and was taped to the main harness there. I want to make sure thats the correct wire to ground it. I will pop some pix when the wifey gets back from the store. Baby is sleeping.

As for a boost check, I pressure tested the pipes. My first test was with the MAF off and I used an old innertube with an air chuck hooked to it to add air pressure directly to the intake tube. I was leaking at the turbo cause the kid I bought it from didnt seem to get the pipe on right. I have not seen any other leaks in there tho. Held up to 28psi steady.

They have already pulled all the vac lines off the tb and capped the nipples for the EGR system (but did not remove the vac hoses from everything else for some reason) I am pretty sure the EGR has not been blocked off either. They seemed to have attempted to do things right, but so far it seems like a huge cluster fk. Im going to try and take a video along with the pix to let everyone hear what I hear too. See if I cant get some insight. Im hoping its just the idler pulley on the front of the engine and not the one for the timing cause that thing was a bi*** to get to on my GSX back in the day. I would rather just pull the motor and do it out of the car than try it again with the motor in the car.

And my time away from DSM took me to a TT dakota RT, a MK3 supra on a big single turbo and a 7m motor, and a small blocked MK3 supra. I just wanted to get back to playing with AWD and didnt want to drop the coin on a WRX or an EVO to just build the crap out of eventually. I would rather take that 20k and just drop it into my new 2500.00 toy.

 

[DSMer541]

I just wanted to get back to playing with AWD and didnt want to drop the coin on a WRX or an EVO to just build the crap out of eventually. I would rather take that 20k and just drop it into my new 2500.00 toy.

Winning! Good luck

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Thanks. I have sadly forgot about half the stuff I used to "know" about the DSM's, so i have a lot of searching to do in here again.

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This is the clip i need to ground out for the timing correct?

 

[DSMer541]

I am not completly sure, but I think its actually the one behind the battery that looks just like that little one.

 

[907gs-t]

Welcome back to the Land of DSM's.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Can anyone identify the black box on my firewall with the green wires coming out? One wire goes to a ground and the one toward the cruise box is just hanging there. It has an adjustment needle there too. I have no idea what the heck it is. Any idea if i can take it out and toss it would be great. I want to get rid of any of the items I can that are just a waste of space under the hood for me.....

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Can anyone identify the black box on my firewall with the green wires coming out? One wire goes to a ground and the one toward the cruise box is just hanging there. It has an adjustment needle there too. I have no idea what the heck it is. Any idea if i can take it out and toss it would be great. I want to get rid of any of the items I can that are just a waste of space under the hood for me.....

I have no idea what that is but it is not a factory piece. If its not hooked up then just pull it out, its not like its going anything anyway.

 

[anchew02]

welcome back to 4g63 country, home of the most bank for your buck 4cyl ever made(motor trend 89-90)

 

[rvaughn]

Have you researched SD vs using a MAFT-Pro setup? It might be a bit more spendy initially as you would need a way to tune such as ECULink (DSMLink). And it would be benificial to go ahead and setup for a FMIC at the same time. But in the end it should be a better tuning tool and it eliminates any kind of intake restrictions due to extra hardware in line with the intake.

Just a suggestion, its not the only option, just one that might save you some money and a few headaches in the end!

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Thats what I thought, it has no alarm or anything so I am pretty sure its not needed. I was wondering cause I plan to mount my AFPR in that area. I love having left over universal parts when I finish builds. Seats, harness's (5 point cam lock), aeromotive AFPR, Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and my catch can.

Now I know the crank case evac issues these have, but has anyone tried to put a check valve into the exhaust to keep a constant draw on the crank case? If so, how has it worked?

JEGS Performance Products 52210 JEGS Crankcase Evacuation Kit

Something like this. It welds into the exhaust and allows there to be a constant vac on the crank case. Run that into a catch can then into the port on the valve cover is the idea I have, but figured I would see if anyone else has done this. I know it was something a few have done on supra's.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Welcome back to the DSM scene, and nice 1g.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Have you researched SD vs using a MAFT-Pro setup? It might be a bit more spendy initially as you would need a way to tune such as ECULink (DSMLink). And it would be benificial to go ahead and setup for a FMIC at the same time. But in the end it should be a better tuning tool and it eliminates any kind of intake restrictions due to extra hardware in line with the intake.

Just a suggestion, its not the only option, just one that might save you some money and a few headaches in the end!

Doesnt the maft pro system allow you to run a MAP sensor? I have a spare EPROM ecu that came with the car when I bought it, but I was told it has no tune on it at all. In time I plan to run a standalone EMS like an AEM, but im looking for now to run something like a GM MAF maybe for the time being.

From what I have read on them, I should be able to setup the GM maf just in front of the TB to meter the true air flow into the intake and allow me to vent to atmosphere to keep crap from getting into my turbine. I plan to make a new elbow off the TB to allow me to run larger pipes as well and be less restrictive than OEM even.

Ideally the plan for the short term will be hard pipes and a front mount ( was given 2 with the car, need to pressure test them) then I want to run a gm maf inline just in front of the TB and reduce it down from the 3 or 3.5" to say a 2.5 via the rubber coupler, then mate it up to the tb thru and further needed reduction in some metal piping to a custom "elbow". Im hoping that will allow me a little free range with my piping options, as well as routing as one IC is single sided enter exit, and the other is opposite side enter/exit. That is my first planned upgrade for this car once I have it running correctly and I can find this squeal.